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Routes in The Far Side

18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Atlas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Atlas Shrugged S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death to the Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Feelin' Your Oats T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Livin' on a Prayer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
New Tradition S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Spice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Tradition T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planet of the Grapes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Rite of Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shute-Mills Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Synchronicity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tradfest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Party S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Jeff Follet
Page Views: 2,766 total, 14/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 11, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An interesting yet not sustained 5.10a to the left of the odvious chimney left of Saviour Heart. Lots of lateral movement makes this climb through provoking and exciting on lead.

Protection

Three bolts to a 3 bolts anchor atop the rock, bring long slings to top rope, which can be accessed by going around and up way to the right.In classic Far Side fashion, only the harder moves are bolted.
Ari G
  5.10a
Ari G  
  5.10a
Great route, fun and varied moves and feels very safe with the 4 bolts. A little runout between last bolt and the anchors, but the climbing gets way easier up there. Oct 23, 2015
Pat Hastings
Fort Collins, CO
Pat Hastings   Fort Collins, CO
For the longest time I thought the Mystery Hole route wasn't listed on MP until I realized it was listed as "5.9" May 29, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a
Thompson and Rough, this is really a great route! And amply protected with four bolts. After leading it a second time and continuing directly up and left above the last bolt, I think it's about 5.10a with two cruxes, one just below the mystery hole and one just above it. Don't skip climbing the face above the last bolt by exiting to the right! Mar 11, 2013
Rough  
Thompson: Try Table Scraps or Table Rock for routes in this range that are reasonably bolted and more fun IMO. Oct 8, 2012
Thompson
Vallejo, CA
 
Thompson   Vallejo, CA
 
This route started out fun. After clipping the second bolt I headed upwards to hit what I believe to be the crux, with no bolt in sight. It was a pretty gnarly move up to the deep hueco and I decided against it and scurried to the side. If I had fallen after that point I would have grounded for sure. Oct 7, 2012
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
I always like this route. I thought it was about right at a 5.8+ rating, but 5.9 is probably in line with the other ratings at here. I always referred to it as "Ringtail" because for a couple of summers there was a resident ringtail cat living in the so-called "Mystery Hole". Feb 9, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a
Actually there are four bolts, not three. The fourth is hidden just above the "mystery hole"--I didn't see it until it was in front of my face. I took the easy finish to the right after the fourth bolt and didn't encounter anything that felt harder than 5.9. Next time I'll finish directly above the fourth bolt. Sep 27, 2010
Eric Berghorn
Calistoga,CA
  5.9
Eric Berghorn   Calistoga,CA
  5.9
The correct name for this climb is "Mystery Hole" according to a reliable source and the name "5.9" on this site does not do it justice. Rock quality varies greatly at all the sectors of Mt. St. Helena, Table Rock, The Palisades, etc. While the climbing is great fun and featured at the chossier areas IMO, the actual quality of rock does not get any better than in this area, or on this short but sweet route... Dec 27, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
This climb goes straight up through the bolts to the deep Hueco by the last bolt. From there you can continue straight up (10+) or dodge to the right onto the shoulder of the rock (slab) which limits the difficulty to 5.9+/5.10-. Aug 22, 2002