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Routes in Indian Rock

Embryonic Journey V2 5+
Ankle Buster V0 4 R
Ape Traverse, The V3 6A
Ape, The V2 5+
Bubble, The V5 6C
Center Overhang (aka Pitfall) TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A R
Crack, The V2 5+
Edge Slab, The V1 5
Flake Traverse V3 6A
Frosted Flakes V1 5
Indian ArĂȘte V0 4
Indian Rock Traverse V5 6C
Little Prow V2 5+
No Hands Route V2 5+
Overhang to Arete V1 5
Overhung Roof V0 4
Overhung Wall - Right Exit V0 4 R
Pegboard V1 5
Seam, The V7 7A+ R
Six Hold Traverse V2 5+
Transportation Crack TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a V-easy 3
Watercourse TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5 R
White Men Can't Jump V? ?
Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,466 total, 8/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jul 28, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

If you can overcome a blanket prejudice against "manufactured routes" or if you've ever climbed in a gym, you may find this silly exursion challenging and entertaining. The "manufactured" tag comes from the fact that problem involves the stacked stone wall along the pathway just down from the Pit on the north side of Indian Rock. This is clearly an artifically constructed structure, but don't let that stop you. If it's any consolation, I didn't build the wall, nor was I the first climber to play on it. It's been a few years since I last did this problem, so it's quite possible that the whole wall has been overgrown with ivy once again. If so, it may be necessary to do some pruning to rediscover the holds.

The object is to traverse the wall from one end to the other. With the many gaps and fissures between stones, this is a trivial exercise. So we'll add some rules: everything on the wall is on-route for the feet, but you're only allowed to use six (6) handholds. Furthermore, each handhold can only be used by one hand (three for the left, three for the right, no matching allowed). The top of the wall and both ends are off-route for the hands. The start and finish involve stable stances with a leg wrapped around the end of the wall.

When I was introduced to the problem, it was the Eight Hold Traverse. Over time, it became the Six Hold Traverse. Further hold elimination seems unlikely, but consider it a challenge. Beta hints: I faced out at least twice in my sequence, and it may be necessary to release one hold before you can grasp the next. Like all good traverses, once you've mastered it in one direction, reverse it and run laps.

Protection

Pruning shears

Photos

Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
Pruning shears definately are necessary: we visited without and found the finish quite overgrown. But that will probably be cured next time we're there... machete! Aug 29, 2002