Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Globule

Baby Fat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Jelly Belly S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,292 total, 7/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

The only bolted climb on The Globule that faces Indian Rock. The roof is very odd and requires a little resourcefulness, but is still no harder than an .11a once you figure out what you're doing.The rest of the climb takes advantage of the large heucos up the face above.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.Stick clip the first bolt, as the crux is getting to the bolt, clipping it and pulling the roof at the first bolt.There is also ground fall potential at the second bolt, but the climbing is pretty easy to it compared to below.
Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
  5.11a R
Mike Ferrell   San Francisco, CA
  5.11a R
Great climb. It feels like 2 bouldering problems (the bottom and top cruxes) separated by a hueco ladder from the 1st to 3rd clips which affords plenty of rest. Take the advice and stick clip the first bolt since it's in an uncomfortable clipping position over a sketchy landing if you fall. Jun 27, 2016
Awesome route! The roof section to the first bolt is more mental than anything, imho. I was able to get a pinch with the right hand, grab the lip with the left which allowed me to lie back, then matched the lip with a right hand wrap around. This freed my left for clipping the bolt.

Up on the slab going for the second bolt is again more mental tax, but very doable. Once you work up the pockets on the right hand side, you eventually end with a right hand side pull, and there is a small lip on the far left that you can undercling which allows you to stand up, and throw the left hand up to the pocket / ledge above (to the left of the third clip).

As for the finish, I found a little horn on the left arete I put my left hand on, and put the right on the little crimp above the third bolt. This allowed me to step really high with my left foot into the pocket you clip the third bolt from, and push out and high right for the final lip on top. The top out is very easy once you've grabbed the top "point" of the route.
Jun 12, 2016
TimberjackChris
New Philadelphia, Ohio
  5.11a R
TimberjackChris   New Philadelphia, Ohio
  5.11a R
Absolutely fantastic route! the nature of the rock plus good bolt placement made this one of my favorite routes. the bottom half is odd, dynamic, and just FUN. The thin, balance-heavy top portion is challenging, exhillarating, and definitely the crux. A great first 5.11 for climbers due to its safe bail potential(top out, untie a safe distance from the edge, climb off the back). I highly reccomend! Mar 8, 2016
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
So I tried to lead it again yesterday... can someone tell me one thing, do you go left or right after the 2nd bolt? There's big chalked(?) jug after a looong move with high feet on the right part, but you end up too far right from the last bolt.
On the left it's easy to clip the last bolt but then finishing feels really awkward. Mar 16, 2015
scotticusmaximus
Santa Cruz, CA
 
scotticusmaximus   Santa Cruz, CA
 
Quite possibly the best route I've done around Castle Rock. A must do and not to be overlooked if around the Indian Rock area! Sep 5, 2012
KyleAnderson
San Francisco, CA
 
KyleAnderson   San Francisco, CA
 
all the bolts were very well placed Oct 6, 2010
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11- PG13
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11- PG13
The straight up finish is indeed tough, much harder than the roof at the bottom. However, I think the natural line heads left at the last bolt, where one finishes with some fun 5.10- or so moves.

There is nothing R-rated about this route if you stick-clip, but if you don't, a fall at the crux roof is really going to suck. If you have a stick clip (or are willing to TR), and are in the Indian Rock area, give this a try! It's fun! Nov 14, 2009
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Maybe I'm in better shape, but I finally led and sent this route fairly easily. This route has several moves/features you aren't going to find many other places. A classic in my book.

For TR setups: One anchor bolt spins and we set a backup by slinging a chockstone with a cordellette 10' back from it. Sep 18, 2006
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
The straight up finish is the true crux. Jul 30, 2006
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I agree with Hank. The first move is a little burly, but pretty doable once you figure out what to do. I'd probably still stick clip it since you heel hook at that bolt. The thin face at the top is the real crux for me. What I wonder is if people are going left to the arete near the top (which was the only way I could finish it) or are they going straight up and a little right of the peak of this climb? I don't know if it was from fruitlessly yarding on the crux move Donkey Dong, but I just couldn't pull the straight-up version. Jul 6, 2006
This is a nice route. The overhanging start is not so hard once you figure out the move, but I felt the last 10D face section is harder. Sep 11, 2002
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
I really enjoyed this climb, and I agree with Brian about stick clipping. I don't like stick clipping, but this clip involved an interesting move that had my butt above my head. Had I popped off, I would've landed on my head from 8 feet up. In my experience, that's not real fun. If you're 7' 2", that's not a problem for you, as you can probably just reach the bolt. Jul 8, 2002