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Puckered Starfish

5.10a, Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 125 votes
FA: Brad Watson (Flash) 9/25/91 Bruce Morris RT
California > San Francisco B… > Castle Rock Area > Indian Rock
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details
Access Issue: Covid-19 Closures! Details

Description

Climb the middle-right set of bolts on the south face. The crux is an interesting bulge move right before the second bolt. Kind of a one move wonder route, as the climbing is the easiest on the face (5.5ish) after the second bolt.

Protection

2 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling through the crux
[Hide Photo] Pulling through the crux
Mike Arechiga on, Puckered Starfish. 5.10a
[Hide Photo] Mike Arechiga on, Puckered Starfish. 5.10a
Dave McAuley starts out puckered starfish.
[Hide Photo] Dave McAuley starts out puckered starfish.
Getting ready to pull the crux
[Hide Photo] Getting ready to pull the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Layback the big pocket, then highstep to get to the first bolt. much more secure. good crimps Aug 19, 2004
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] Cool rock! Sep 12, 2006
Daniel Trugman
Austin
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] A purple (.5) BD C4 worked really well for the initial crack. The first bolt is a ways up there, so this piece is nice to have. Sep 25, 2009
Quaid
 
[Hide Comment] We top roped it yesterday kind of sketchy scrambling to the top and getting to the anchor but totally doable. The crux to me felt like the start with the lie back and high foot hole but after that super fun and short great for warming up Dec 2, 2016
Eric MC
Oakland, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The first bolt hanger has a crack all the way through it, below the bolt. Sep 12, 2017
tr di
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] no rappel rings at the top of this route just FYI Dec 16, 2017
Raffaele Saposhnik
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Stick-clip definitely nice for the first bolt (15-20 feet) with a sketchy landing. Sep 16, 2019
John F Kim
San Jose, CA
[Hide Comment] I set then cleaned a TR anchor on this route and I think the anchor has chains with quick links but no rap rings (Oct 2019). I was able to do two variations of the start but couldn't pull the crux so ended up climbing around the crux to the left. Nov 8, 2019
Ricky Harline
Angel's Camp, CA
[Hide Comment] The route now has quicklinks for rappelling/lowering, it didn't used to. It had carabiners on the anchor to lower off of for a few weeks. Every now and then someone tries to make this a modern sport climbing area and then inevitably the carabiners/mussy hooks disappear after a short while. At least the quick links have been left in tact.

Moral of the story: don't donate carabiners or mussy hooks to routes in the Castle Rock area unless you would like to make a personal contribution to the types of crusty assholes that disapprove of the modern progression of safety and convenience and take it upon themselves to make sure that everyone will have the same inferior cleaning and lowering experience as themselves. Aug 11, 2020
Brody W
Campbell, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Smaller mussy hooks at the anchor. I'm not sure when they were added, but the route to the left has it too.

First 10a onsight/flash! Dec 25, 2020