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Routes in Lower Tier

Amazing Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch (a.k.a. Ozone), The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bolt Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracker Ass Cracker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diablo Jam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinosaur S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Earthcling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ozone Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Claude Fiddler and Patrick Sawyer, ca. 1974
Page Views: 5,055 total, 26/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 6, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

Lieback the left side of the arch until you're almost to the top, then reach left to the thin crack above the roof, traverse this up and right until it joins a wider, vertical crack. Follow this one to the top. Ozone is a really unique climb that requires a lot of upper body strength.

Location

The furthest left climb on the lower tier.

Protection

There is a tree above the route to set a top rope on. Approach it by hiking up the steep trail left of the lower tier. Go right towards the face at the first turn. Bring long slings.
Eric Leonard
5.10d PG13
Eric Leonard  
5.10d PG13
Lead it on gear, you will find a new found respect for the style, I didn't lie back it more than 1-2 moves, instead i found that being in the crack was more secure, at least when olacing pro. Don't forget to set the anchors before u climb, the top out is super sloped and sandy. Cheers to the first ascensionist! Dec 3, 2017
I remember climbing this route in 1976 along with several others in this cliff lots of fun Feb 9, 2017
Thanks for the history on this, Patrick. I was climbing here with Mike Borris and Mark Rommel in '75/76. (See my comments for Amazing Face and Bolt (Ladder) Route). After getting my crack schooling in Yosemite, I easily led this with a couple large hexes in the initial Arch and a couple small ones in the upper crack. Would not even think of leading it now, too old and comfortable on a top rope or clipping bolts. Oct 26, 2016
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
  5.10c
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
  5.10c
Led this route last weekend. Good pro, except for the last 15 feet or so to the anchors. Need to make two 5.9 moves well above the last good piece. I think someone else said you can protect with a microcam...in this rock...haha...good sense of humor. Mar 4, 2012
There is now a two bolt anchor at the top. You still might want to have the rope around the tree when setting up TR since the anchor is a bit far out. Aug 29, 2011
Peter Rakowitz
Portland, OR
 
Peter Rakowitz   Portland, OR
 
what a cool route! hand crack off width slab roof finger locking fun! Jun 7, 2010
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
I've lead it. It's a pretty safe lead, just double up under the roof and you won't have to wory about blowing anything out. Jul 5, 2007
anybody lead this route? Ive top-roped it a few times and feel like the pro beneath the roof is reasonable. a bit concerned about blowing it out though Jul 2, 2007
Patrick Sawyer
Californian Living in Ireland
Patrick Sawyer   Californian Living in Ireland
We use to just call it The Arch, and I can say with certainty, having climbed Diablo since 1968 on a regular basis, that Claude Fiddler and I freed this in 1974, or was it 1973? Both the dihedral and the direct start. I don't know who named it but it could have been Claude at a later date. I'll ask him since we just got in contact for the first time in well over 20 years thanks to the internet (through supertopo.com, great forum). It is a fun climb and one of my favorites on Diablo, where I cut my teeth and first started climbing. Haven't been there for over ten years as I am now living in Ireland (born and raised in Walnut Creek and Lafayette). I'd be curious to how crowded it gets nowadays, what with the growing popularity of climbing and number of climbing gyms. Jun 8, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Steep and reachy- powerful.

Rack from .5" to #4-Camalot cams- double 3-4" if you like a lot of pro. Cruxes are at #4 Camalot and at 2.5" The top balancey move is near a placement for a small TCU or microcam.

The 2-star rating here definitely is 'for the area' in other places, it would be lacking quality. There are definately better climbs on the cliff.

5.10c is fair, or maybe 10b. Good jamming and stemming keeps it within reason and gives enough rest so as not to make the ascent a horse-race. Sep 22, 2003
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Ozone is a great route and although we toproped the route it could be a pretty safe lead. Good jamming techniques above the arch make this upper section not too difficult. Without make it VERY difficult!We didn't tape up and hands got a little beat up. All in all, a very fun route! The variation makes for some very interesting face moves! Mar 24, 2003
I remember this one from way back too. It was a blast I always loved playing around with different lie backs and underclings. I always felt that to complete the route speed was the order of the day. If you get stuck trying to make the transition from the crack system to the face you'll burn out the old forearms suffling back and forth.If you don't mind some swinging if you fall on top rope there are several mini climbs all along this one stretch. Dec 12, 2002
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
This route was quite fun, the pull up moves over the roof are interesting and puzzling. I hope you like laybacks. Jul 21, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Excellent route. I still remember doing this one 15 years ago. One of the best routes at Mt. Diablo. Jun 28, 2002