The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone) [Edit]

Excellent route. I still remember doing this one 15 years ago. One of the best routes at Mt. Diablo. Jun 28, 2002

This route was quite fun, the pull up moves over the roof are interesting and puzzling. I hope you like laybacks. Jul 21, 2002

I remember this one from way back too. It was a blast I always loved playing around with different lie backs and underclings. I always felt that to complete the route speed was the order of the day. If you get stuck trying to make the transition from the crack system to the face you'll burn out the old forearms suffling back and forth.If you don't mind some swinging if you fall on top rope there are several mini climbs all along this one stretch. Dec 12, 2002

Ozone is a great route and although we toproped the route it could be a pretty safe lead. Good jamming techniques above the arch make this upper section not too difficult. Without make it VERY difficult!We didn't tape up and hands got a little beat up. All in all, a very fun route! The variation makes for some very interesting face moves! Mar 24, 2003

Steep and reachy- powerful.

Rack from .5" to #4-Camalot cams- double 3-4" if you like a lot of pro. Cruxes are at #4 Camalot and at 2.5" The top balancey move is near a placement for a small TCU or microcam.

The 2-star rating here definitely is 'for the area' in other places, it would be lacking quality. There are definately better climbs on the cliff.

5.10c is fair, or maybe 10b. Good jamming and stemming keeps it within reason and gives enough rest so as not to make the ascent a horse-race. Sep 22, 2003

We use to just call it The Arch, and I can say with certainty, having climbed Diablo since 1968 on a regular basis, that Claude Fiddler and I freed this in 1974, or was it 1973? Both the dihedral and the direct start. I don't know who named it but it could have been Claude at a later date. I'll ask him since we just got in contact for the first time in well over 20 years thanks to the internet (through supertopo.com, great forum). It is a fun climb and one of my favorites on Diablo, where I cut my teeth and first started climbing. Haven't been there for over ten years as I am now living in Ireland (born and raised in Walnut Creek and Lafayette). I'd be curious to how crowded it gets nowadays, what with the growing popularity of climbing and number of climbing gyms. Jun 8, 2006

anybody lead this route? Ive top-roped it a few times and feel like the pro beneath the roof is reasonable. a bit concerned about blowing it out though Jul 2, 2007

I've lead it. It's a pretty safe lead, just double up under the roof and you won't have to wory about blowing anything out. Jul 5, 2007

what a cool route! hand crack off width slab roof finger locking fun! Jun 7, 2010

There is now a two bolt anchor at the top. You still might want to have the rope around the tree when setting up TR since the anchor is a bit far out. Aug 29, 2011

Led this route last weekend. Good pro, except for the last 15 feet or so to the anchors. Need to make two 5.9 moves well above the last good piece. I think someone else said you can protect with a microcam...in this rock...haha...good sense of humor. Mar 4, 2012

Thanks for the history on this, Patrick. I was climbing here with Mike Borris and Mark Rommel in '75/76. (See my comments for Amazing Face and Bolt (Ladder) Route). After getting my crack schooling in Yosemite, I easily led this with a couple large hexes in the initial Arch and a couple small ones in the upper crack. Would not even think of leading it now, too old and comfortable on a top rope or clipping bolts. Oct 26, 2016

I remember climbing this route in 1976 along with several others in this cliff lots of fun Feb 9, 2017

Lead it on gear, you will find a new found respect for the style, I didn't lie back it more than 1-2 moves, instead i found that being in the crack was more secure, at least when olacing pro. Don't forget to set the anchors before u climb, the top out is super sloped and sandy. Cheers to the first ascensionist! Dec 3, 2017