Trad, 70 ft,
Avg: 2.6 from 10
FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton
> San Francisco B…
> Wine Country
> Mt St Helena
> Far Side
> Lower Buttress
Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017
PLEASE AVOID ST. HELENA FOR NOW. THE RECENT FIRES HAVE DECIMATED THE ROCK AND POTENTIALLY THE BOLTS. (10/23/17)
See the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=472
for current park closure information, or the MP forum discussion mountainproject.com/forum/t…
for the latest on climbing impacts.
Continue on the path that led to The Far Side, past the rock with Step To The Left. About 40 feet later, there's a steeper path leading downhill and right (as you're facing downhill). Follow this for ~100 feet to another large rock, Seymour Frishberg is the climb up the south-facing arete.Since the first bolt is ~20 feet off the ground, you may want to approach it from the left side, though the bottom climbing is really fun. The arete itself is very fun and very exposed, you have about a 270 degree view, and it seems like you much further off the ground due to the steepness of the hillside the rock is on. The runout scares the crap out of you, but the climbing isn't too difficult, so it just adds to the experience.
3 bolts to the same 2 bolt anchor as Boneless Chicken Ranch.
If you lead this without using trad pro, it's extremely run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... enough so that falling could result in a 60 foot ground fall.
The run-outs can be protected with supplemental cams before and after the steep bolted section. Climbing these routes without placing additional protection pieces remains a heady challenge. I would list SF as a trad climb since the first ascentionists used camming units in addition to bolts to protect the lead....