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In the Buckets

5.11c, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 15 votes
FA: Dimitri Bevc and Geoff Hoodies c. 1981
California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > Mt Diablo SP > Boy Scout Rocks > Middle Tier
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock DetailsDrop down

Description

Argh!!! Fun but frustrating and slopeeeeey... Just right of "Jungle Book," up the obvious line of pockets. Very tricky, body-position-dependent moves on unnervingly sandy rock. When all else fails, jump.

Protection

5 bolts plus the anchors (150mm glue-ins, '23).

Stick-clipping the first bolt is nice.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the route less the first five feet. Climbing begins in the bottom of the massive pocket in the center of the picture.
[Hide Photo] This is the route less the first five feet. Climbing begins in the bottom of the massive pocket in the center of the picture.
Yellow = In the Buckets <br> Orange = Secnar
[Hide Photo] Yellow = In the Buckets Orange = Secnar

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] Looks like this climb used to be a lot easier due to the foot holds sloping out over years of use. Still a fun route, it's easier than you think. Jun 25, 2002
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] This route is about the most beta-intensive climb i've ever seen. I've watched a lot of people go up this, and once someone figures out what to do, the climb quickly becomes quite do-able. Jun 25, 2002
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] This and Jungle Book (5.10D) make the mid-tier well worth while, especially when everybody is waiting for the lower tier climbs. As mentioned, the moves are definitely beta intensive, but they also require some grip. The fun part my friend and I noticed is that it tends to make the climber do the oddest moves attempting to reach the next hold before realizing there's an easier, more conventional way to do it. That said, we both ended up dynoing to pass two different cruxes. Fun route! Oct 24, 2005
scalparm
Vienna, Austria
 
[Hide Comment] I don't agree that it's beta intensive at all. Just powerful, balanced movement. There are no bolts, so just TR. Definitely worth it after Jungle Book! One crucial hold is gonna break pretty soon. Rating is solid at 11c/d. Apr 29, 2008
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Fantastic route - flashed it with good beta on the lower section, cool body position and some desperate/unlikely moves. Felt solid 5.11d/.12a for me, but I'm short. Sep 2, 2014
R Rod
[Hide Comment] When I did this 10 years ago it felt 11c. Got on it yesterday and some of the holds (crimps) def got smaller, sand is disintegrating. More like 11d now. Mar 27, 2023