Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ken Stanton
Page Views: 132 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 11, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

A one move wonder. Instead of going over the roof immediatly, follow beneath it on the overly facile climbing until you can clip the second bolt. Clip it, then up and over the roof. Fun move, boring climb.

Protection

2 bolts to the same 2 bolt anchor as Step To The Left. Very runout climbing until you get to the roof. Rope drag will be an even bigger problem than on Stop To The Left

Photos

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Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.10a R
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.10a R
This variation of "Step to the Left" has long been referred to as "Death to the right" though the death block is gone now. Bring some cams. Many of the Far Side routes were established by local climber Ken Stanton in the mid '80s. Mar 25, 2007
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a PG13
As Jerry Dodrill stated, this is a variation of Step to the Left. Instead of stepping left after clipping the second bolt on the vertical dihedral, move right under the roof (easy class five), clip the hidden third bolt above the roof (a bomber small cam can be placed beneath the roof), and pull the roof. The climb is well protected with supplemental cams, but be careful between the first cam and first bolt. If top-roping, use the third bolt as a directional. Dec 21, 2013
FourT6and2 ...
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2 ...   San Francisco, CA
Super bomber bolts at the top now. There are 4. All with good hardware and rap rings. 2 for this climb, 2 for the one on the other side of the arete.

The climb itself is not bad. I had fun on it. I did a few laps on it and went over the roof in three different spots for some variety. Not bad. Apr 18, 2016