Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Far Side

18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Atlas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Atlas Shrugged S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death to the Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Feelin' Your Oats T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Livin' on a Prayer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
New Tradition S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Spice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Tradition T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planet of the Grapes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Rite of Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shute-Mills Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Synchronicity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tradfest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Party S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 877 total, 5/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 11, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The bolted route on the same rock as Shute-Mills, go around the pillar and you'll see it. You'll also notice that there's more climbing right of the bolts route that is top-roped as a 5.10a.Saviour Heart is another strightforwar steep face where the numerous little pockets provide plenty of hands. The crux is getting over the same bulge as on Shute-Mills, but well further to the left.

Protection

There are 3 bolts on this route, 1 at the bottom, and 2 surrounding the crux at the top, the area between is ~5.7 climbing and there are plenty of opportunities to place traditional gear if you're at all uncomfortable.

Photos

Having climbed the crack to the left several times, I realized it was a distinct line sharing only a few holds with Saviour Heart. The crack was first climbed in the early 1960s (see Jerry Dodrill's comment above), so I've added a description of the route as Forrester's Crack. May 10, 2016
Brian Hansen 1
  5.9+ PG13
Brian Hansen 1  
  5.9+ PG13
Climbed this on TR after leading New Tradition to the right; the runout didn't seem worth it. Pulling straight up through the bouldery overhang at the top is the definite crux (5.9+ maybe) and a fun challenge - well protected by a bolt too if you decide to take it on. Oct 19, 2015
I just led the climb up the wide crack, clipping the first two bolts, placing a few cams, climbing left of the third bolt (didn't clip it), and finishing on a thin, well protected crack just below the anchor. It didn't feel any harder than 5.7. May 19, 2013
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.9 PG13
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.9 PG13
The climbing is easy at the runout.

The bolted route to the left is "Mystery Hole" .10a.

The wide crack just left was led with hand placed stone chocks in the late '60s by Forrest Shute and Wade Mills. Forrest led up to below the ledge, got scared, put in a bad pin and lowered off. Wade led back up with the rope in place. He fell, the pin ripped and a chockstone pulled. Fortunately the lower chock held and he stopped upside down just two feet above the ground after a 50' fall. He then gathered himself and climbed back up, finishing the route. Jun 10, 2010
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
 
To my knowledge, its as nameless as an abandoned baby. Aug 21, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
OK, so what is the name of the Route just LEFT of this, on the other side of the Chimney? Aug 21, 2002
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
 
We declared the chimney moves off as they weren't really needed, and the crux is pulling onto the large boulder near the top. But yes, the blunt arete is Saviour Heart. As far as 's' versus 'vs' rating is concerned, I would agree that 's' may be reasonable, though without cams there's about a 20' runout when your only clip is 15' off the ground... therefore if you fall its 35' squarely into the groud. I guess the key is just using cams if your uncomfortable. Aug 21, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Somebody tell me if I am wrong, but this is the route around to the left which is near a chimney at the bottom- it goes up the stemming chimeny or blunt arete and past a boulder on a sloping ledge half way, then to the top and up/right.

THe protection would be larger stuff (cams) int eh crack as you proceed up higher, and since there is plenty of it, as well as several bolts, the route is either bolted and only S or not S at all of you have cams.

Am I way off here? Aug 20, 2002