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Routes in Shute-Mills Area

18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Atlas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Atlas Shrugged S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death to the Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Feelin' Your Oats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Livin' on a Prayer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
New Tradition S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Spice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Tradition T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planet of the Grapes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Rite of Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Shute-Mills Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Synchronicity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tradfest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
War Party S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Forrest Shute and Wade Mills
Page Views: 8,509 total · 43/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 11, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

The first climb you see as you arrive at the Far Side, and a great warm-up. Lots of good pockes on a vertical boulder reaching about 50' feet up. Getting over the bulge near the top is the crux.

Protection

One of the few well-protected climbs in the Far Side. 5 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor shared with the other climbs on the rock.

Photos

harmonydoc
  5.8+
harmonydoc  
  5.8+
Fun route, first bolt a bit high but otherwise well protected. Easier if you work your way up a gully to the right and approach the first bolt from that side. Also easier if you go left instead of straight over the bulge near the top. Probably 5.8 if you do these things, 5.9 if you stay on the line of the bolts. Shared anchor with New Tradition 5.7 to the left. Feb 13, 2006
Floyd Hayes
  5.9
Floyd Hayes  
  5.9
For me the crux is getting to the first bolt, which I approach from the left, and I think it's solid 5.9. A small cam can be placed before the first bolt, but it takes out a good handhold. The bulge at the top is much easier, at least for me, feeling no harder than 5.7. Oct 27, 2008
Cam Parry
Angwin, CA
 
Cam Parry   Angwin, CA
 
I agree w/ Floyd - crux is down low - below 1st bolt and is closer to 5.9 than 5.8. May 26, 2009
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.8+
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.8+
The set of rusty 1/4" rappel chains and other set of bolts with 1960s era Leeper hangers have been replaced with stainless Fixe hardware. Mar 8, 2010
Kyle Townsend
Oakland, CA
  5.8
Kyle Townsend   Oakland, CA
  5.8
Direct start is 5.9 and heads up if you aren't solid at the grade. Well protected climb, great beginner lead. Rap from the top to avoid unnecessary wear and tear on the rope. Jul 1, 2012
top rope the independent line to the right. holds almost dissapear but not quite. :) Sep 4, 2012
Oscar Fate  
 
the two new Fixe anchors are loose, but there are backup options aplenty. Jul 7, 2014
FourT6and2 ...
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2 ...   San Francisco, CA
Yeah, crux is definitely the first section up to the first bolt. After that, it's smooth sailing. The move that makes this route worth it for me is right when you go over the little mini roof. I won't give the move away, but it's not hard, but makes you feel like you've accomplished something.

Just a correction from a previous comment, this route does NOT share the same anchor with New Tradition. There are 4 bolts up top, two for New Tradition, two for this route. The bolts are pretty bomber and all have rap rings. Apr 18, 2016
Kevin Miller
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Kevin Miller   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
I agree- if you climb directly to the first bolt, you will want to be solid at 5.9. Really fun route! Anchor bolts were solid as of July 2016. Aug 5, 2016
Beautiful views, nice moves, and solid bolts all the way up, at the top is a nice anchor with rings that is easy to access if looking to top rope. Crux is definitely right at the start. Mar 13, 2017
Nick Andrew
  5.9
Nick Andrew  
  5.9
Crux moves are definitely 5.9 and come before the high first bolt (stick clip is nice). Great climbing on pockets all the way up and amazing views from the top. Anchors are a ways over the lip so bring long slings if you want to set up a top rope. I found this route much more challenging mentally than physically as there are some decent run-outs although the climbing at those points is much easier than the first section of the route.. Jun 1, 2018

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