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Wing of Bat

5.10a/b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 53 votes
FA: unknown
California > Sonora Pass Hig… > Table Mountain > Welcome Wall
Warning Access Issue: Agreement in place at Gold Wall. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. DetailsDrop down

Description

As mentioned in the rock description, Wing of Bat is right in the middle of the Welcome Wall. You can tell that the climbing goes up and to the right in a slight dihedral/crack to the first bolt, and from there continues straight up following a series of cracks. Route finding shouldn't be too difficult on this one.Fun climb with lots of large holds, lots of which you can either practice your crack technique, or use them as side-pulls. Some guides books have this as an 10a others as an 10b, after all 3 of us climbed it, we sorta looked at each other determined we agree with those who have it as a 10b. While I'm critiquing guide books, I'd also mention that we hardly saw any bat shit or bats on the climb. So while some say the bat presence detracts from the quality of the climb, I say it was fun shit since we encountered no trace of bat infestation.Still, though, I'll remind you to keep an eye out for bats in some of the underclings you encounter.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The guide books that I've seen don't have the correct number of bolts, besides that, Wing of Bat couldn't have any more straight-forward protection.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing the Wing of Bat
[Hide Photo] Climbing the Wing of Bat
I didn't hit bat shit. Lucky!
[Hide Photo] I didn't hit bat shit. Lucky!
Climbing the Wing of Bat
[Hide Photo] Climbing the Wing of Bat
You can clearly see the route.
[Hide Photo] You can clearly see the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tallmark515
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I concur, .10b. I remember one thought provoking move a few bolts up and a few committing 5.10 moves at the traverse up top. Overall fun route and a must do on the wall. Dec 21, 2009
Tim Camuti
Strafford, VT
 
[Hide Comment] Very well bolted and anchored- all in a line with anchor directly above start. Anchors are a little high above ledge for 5'6". Jun 18, 2010
Jared-EMS
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] There was an amazing amount of bird & bat dropping everywhere. I'm looking forward to doing Welcome Mat this week & comparing the two. Jul 13, 2010
Will M.
Oakland
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Lots of poo in the undercling. Fortunately I let my buddies go first so when it came time to lead it I didn't get too messy. Well bolted. Apr 21, 2011
Luke.V
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] More than bat guano you have some light rain (yes urine) from the friendly mammals in the cracks.

Overall fun route with a lot of underclings. Very well bolted and as far as lead climbing goes I'd say .10a. Jun 5, 2013
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Protection: 6 quickdraws and a rain jacket, ha! Jun 6, 2013
Chris Blanchard
Anacortes, WA
 
[Hide Comment] I elected to climb this route traditionally .. It felt harder than .10a but maybe that had to do with some dicey potential ankle breaking sections while being shat on from above. Literally had the stuff dripping down my back while my belayer was trying to hide under me. Jul 11, 2013
coldatom
Cambridge, MA
[Hide Comment] A torrent of bat shit raining down at the final bolts.

Apparently others have had better experiences. Maybe the bat activity is seasonal (I was there in late July), but I can't believe they didn't call this climb Bat Shit Crazy. Sep 22, 2013
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
[Hide Comment] One clip about half way up is a little spicy Sep 28, 2014
[Hide Comment] Didn't send it but the second bolt is quite loose and spins. Looked good otherwise. Sep 12, 2019