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Urolagniac
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in Upper Tier
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Fecolagniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Urolagniac T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 37.24072, -122.09854 |
| FA: | Brad Watson (TR) 7/18/91 |
| Page Views: | 1,283 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure for Peregrine Falcon Nesting
Details
Nov 2015: "The land managers have asked that we stay off the climbs that go through the nest of the peregrine falcons - we have put tags on the anchors and the first bolts of the climbs. The climbs that are effected are:
Rectalphobiac
Glob of Shit
Double Cracks
As of Oct 4, 2014, Summit Rock at Sanborn County Park is open seasonally to climbing on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Around January 2015, if nesting activity is observed by park rangers, climbing may be closed or limited to permits again. The free permit system limits access to 35 people a day, subject to the results of an ongoing peregrine/climber monitoring program. Climbers can call the Parks Department reservation line at 408-355-2201, give their contact information, and receive the free permit immediately by email. Please remember to close all gates and observe all posted signs.
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This route is located on the upper tier of the rock, and has magnificent views of the San Jose area, and also potentially of would-be bottle throwers at the top of the rock. Another advantage of this area is that the rock is smooth and a little sheltered so that glass seems to miss the belay stance on the route.
To access this climb, either climb the lower tier routes and go a little right until the rock starts heading severely downward, or you can also walk over from the path by following the apporach to the top anchors for the lower tier, and continue around to the right until you see bolts heading up a steep face. This route is climbing the wider slab just to the left of the bolted route fecolagniac. There's also a small tree that is in the perfect belay stance.
This route wasn't too spectacular, a one move route on the top portion. The crack to the left has to be off, or this climb would be maybe a 5.8. Starting at the belay stance and going through the initial crack instead of heading around to the left on top of the large block makes this a little more fun.
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