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Routes in Summit Rock
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Bolt Filcher S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chancroid T,S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Crimps of Bel Air V6-7 7A+ R |
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Donuts with Buddha S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enter Sandman S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fecolagniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Glob of Shit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Molar, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rectalphobiac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ribbed For Comfort TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rigormorris S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Roof Crack, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shaolin Slab S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Skillsaw Gourmet T,S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spung-Lick-A-Litus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tree Surgeon T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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University of Santa Clara Practice Climb 1 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Urolagniac T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wide Crack T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Worm Belly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Brad Watson (TR) 7/17/91 |
| Page Views: | 1,213 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Access Issue: Reopened! Permit Required (see details)
Details
Nov 2015: "The land managers have asked that we stay off the climbs that go through the nest of the peregrine falcons - we have put tags on the anchors and the first bolts of the climbs. The climbs that are effected are:
Rectalphobiac
Glob of Shit
Double Cracks
The nest has moved each year so it might be different routes next season - we will move the tags and update you." - Matt from the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.
As of Oct 4, 2014, Summit Rock at Sanborn County Park is open seasonally to climbing on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Around January 2015, if nesting activity is observed by park rangers, climbing may be closed or limited to permits again. The free permit system limits access to 35 people a day, subject to the results of an ongoing peregrine/climber monitoring program. Climbers can call the Parks Department reservation line at 408-355-2201, give their contact information, and receive the free permit immediately by email. Please remember to close all gates and observe all posted signs.
Rectalphobiac
Glob of Shit
Double Cracks
The nest has moved each year so it might be different routes next season - we will move the tags and update you." - Matt from the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.
As of Oct 4, 2014, Summit Rock at Sanborn County Park is open seasonally to climbing on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Around January 2015, if nesting activity is observed by park rangers, climbing may be closed or limited to permits again. The free permit system limits access to 35 people a day, subject to the results of an ongoing peregrine/climber monitoring program. Climbers can call the Parks Department reservation line at 408-355-2201, give their contact information, and receive the free permit immediately by email. Please remember to close all gates and observe all posted signs.
Description
This route is located on the upper tier of the rock, and has magnificent views of the San Jose area, and also potentially of would-be bottle throwers at the top of the rock. Another advantage of this area is that the rock is smooth and a little sheltered so that glass seems to miss the belay stance on the route.
To access this climb, either climb the lower tier routes and go a little right until the rock starts heading severely downward, or you can also walk over from the path by following the apporach to the top anchors for the lower tier, and continue around to the right until you see bolts heading up a steep face. if you get to the bolts on the considerably less vertical slab, you've gone past the route and are looking at Dahmer's Delight. There's also a small tree that is in the perfect belay stance, and should probably be used to anchor the belayer to avoid pulling a climbing team dowm below over the lip into the lower tier.
Slab climbing with a neat transition between two cracks.
This is a really balancy route that involves a safe yet exposed crux between the second and third bolts. The route is also little runout before the first bolt, and after the third bolt, though the climbing in these sections is considerably easier.
You'll want a really long sling for the last bolt to reduce rop drag if anyone will be top roping.
To access this climb, either climb the lower tier routes and go a little right until the rock starts heading severely downward, or you can also walk over from the path by following the apporach to the top anchors for the lower tier, and continue around to the right until you see bolts heading up a steep face. if you get to the bolts on the considerably less vertical slab, you've gone past the route and are looking at Dahmer's Delight. There's also a small tree that is in the perfect belay stance, and should probably be used to anchor the belayer to avoid pulling a climbing team dowm below over the lip into the lower tier.
Slab climbing with a neat transition between two cracks.
This is a really balancy route that involves a safe yet exposed crux between the second and third bolts. The route is also little runout before the first bolt, and after the third bolt, though the climbing in these sections is considerably easier.
You'll want a really long sling for the last bolt to reduce rop drag if anyone will be top roping.
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