Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 767 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details
Access Issue: Reopened! Permit Required (see details) Details

Description

This route is located on the upper tier of the rock, and has magnificent views of the San Jose area, and also potentially of would-be bottle throwers at the top of the rock. Another advantage of this area is that the rock is smooth and a little sheltered so that glass seems to miss the belay stance on the route.

To access this climb, either climb the lower tier routes and go a little right until the rock starts heading severely downward, or you can also walk over from the path by following the apporach to the top anchors for the lower tier, and continue around to the right until you see bolts heading up a steep face. if you get to the bolts on the considerably less vertical slab, you've gone past the route and are looking at Dahmer's Delight. There's also a small tree that is in the perfect belay stance, and should probably be used to anchor the belayer to avoid pulling a climbing team dowm below over the lip into the lower tier.

Slab climbing with a neat transition between two cracks.

This is a really balancy route that involves a safe yet exposed crux between the second and third bolts. The route is also little runout before the first bolt, and after the third bolt, though the climbing in these sections is considerably easier.

You'll want a really long sling for the last bolt to reduce rop drag if anyone will be top roping.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos