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Stone Free

5.11d, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 18 votes
FA: Jody Morgan and Tracy Duefriend (1998)
California > San Francisco B… > Wine Country/No… > Mt St Helena > Bear

Description

Starting on the right side of the main rock of the bear, this is the last climb on the 1st pitch. Crux is a traversy move between the second and third bolts that's more balance than power. Beware the the prominent roof above the 3rd bolt is hollow, and is REALLY loose on the right side. This section is run out, but is probably only 5.8 or so.

Bolts on the upper section have been removed due to fire damaged rock. Stay off the roof feature and the entire block above it. Bolts have been redirected to the right and now join Kodiak crack.

Protection

5 bolts to fixed anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sam Trimboli clips the chains on Stone Free, Bear Cliff, Mt. St. Helena
[Hide Photo] Sam Trimboli clips the chains on Stone Free, Bear Cliff, Mt. St. Helena
stone free viewed from the middle of the main rock on The Bear
[Hide Photo] stone free viewed from the middle of the main rock on The Bear

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Don't clip that piece of history. There's a bolt within reach of the pin stack. May 17, 2008
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
[Hide Comment] There is a left and right way to do the crux using different holds. Both about 11+-12A. Excellent technical route. Bolts well placed. Solid rock, except for hollow roof. Jul 26, 2010
R Rod
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Really fun! Definitely not 12a. If Body Snatchers is 12a than Stone Free is 11d at most. Definitely must do. Aug 26, 2013
grabski
N California
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb. Technical and thought-provoking. Keep an eye out for the occasional loose rock. All of the key holds are solid. But some small pebbles broke off on us a few times near the top. Aug 25, 2015
Jordy Morgan
[Hide Comment] Upper bolts removed. At the 4th bolt, head right to Kodiak. May 29, 2021