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Bear Arete
5.11c,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2 from 5
votes
FA: Mark Howe (2000)
California
> San Francisco B…
> Wine Country/No…
> Mt St Helena
> Bear
Description
The Bear Arete is the right-most climb on the second pitch of the bear. The climb is pretty straight-forward until the second bolt, where it seems that there are plentiful holds to the right, yet they don't go anywhere. Conversely, there are a few less generous holds on the left that will have to suffice. I don't know if we did it right, but we did an up-and-left dyno after the third bolt... it was tough and weird, but fun none-the-less. My main complaint about the route was the lack of traffic it has seen. There was a bunch of loose rock that we knocked off, and moss that covered many important grips and decreased their utility. This also caused the grips to be chock-free, which made the climb seem harder, and more confusing, but more interesting as well!
Protection
7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Make sure to clip into the anchors below and to the left of the climb while belaying.
Oakland, CA
Calistoga,CA
Oakland, CA
Oakland, CA
1) No dyno necessary, but the crux is still tricky with crumbly feet. I agree with Eric about the ~11c suggestion.
2) There are now 4 bolts leaving ground level that lead into what I had known as the Bear Arete. They follow a seam past another 5.11 section that was quite fun and on solid rock. We did the whole route as 1 pitch, and found our 60 meter rope was long enough to lower us to the 4th class ledge that starts this version of the climb.
2.5) Clipping the 4th bolt on the ground start will significantly add to rope drag up top. The climbing between the 4th bolt and the anchors of the original Bear Arete is about 5.4, so skipping the bolt may improve your comfort later on. May 11, 2009
Bodega, CA