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Routes in The Ledger Crags

Holed Up T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ledger, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moe's Error T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 240 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Kaufman, Phil Jones, Betsy Herbst, Steve Jones, Joe Herbst. December 1974
Page Views: 3,146 total, 22/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Dec 23, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route travels up the dihedral on the far left side of the cliff. The prominent corner of the second pitch is not quite visible from the road nor from the hike in. The start is about fifty feet to the left of the start of the route "Holed Up", which features a black hole in the center of the brown rock on the second pitch.

The short first pitch of The Ledger follows a dirty corner system through some vegetation including some yuccas to a large bushy ledge.

Pitch two follows the obvious dihedral to the next large ledge.

Pitch three climbs the left leaning crack through a well-protected crux to the top of the cliff. The exposure here is exciting.

Descend by walking off left into the gully that separates the cliff from Sheep Skull Crags. Route finding here is not obvious and the gully is quite overgrown. An alternative descent involves hiking to the right and down climbing a short way to a rappel tree. A single rappel with two 60 meter ropes gets you to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack up to Camalot #3

Photos

Great route. It definitely stays easy of you go to the left and 5.9 if you go to the right. Link the first two pitched together. There is a boulder which is slung which allows you to rap the route with a single 60m rope. Nov 6, 2017
Leslie McG
  5.9
Leslie McG  
  5.9
The pro on this route is excellent. i am 5'3" and was able to stem the 3rd pitch no problem. However the crux move was NOT 5.7, at least for a short climber. Might be one of the best routes here in RR, only wish it was longer. Nov 6, 2017
Mike Zasadzien
  5.8+
Mike Zasadzien  
  5.8+
Great fun-in-the-sun climb, and protected from the wind even on 50+mph gust days; but not sure why this is rated a 5.7 when your third pitch options are either:

5.8(ish) if you go left, need a big piece [#3 or even a #4] to make the awkward exit onto the easy face feel comfortable, unless you want to keep it "exciting"...

The right exit into the stemming problem is also extremely exciting, but easily a 5.9, but protects really well before stepping up into it, and through the crux of getting your stem-on. Currently [4/23/2017] there's a yellow alien permafixed to help egg you on right into the crux. I believe a retraction wire was snapped inside of it upon first glance, but didn't have much time to inspect. Either way, if it's there or not, pop your small .3/.4 cam in as back up, fire up, and don't look down!

Oh, and real quick, second pitch is a super awesome and easy to protect 5.7. Delightful. There is a massive slung boulder at the end of it in case you want to bail from here. [Would probably still need a double-rope rappel with 60s, but a single 70 would get you back to the last one]

Approach from Willow Springs is ~45min-1hr. Look for the every-5-feet cairn path right at the trail switch-back apex on the way down. Apr 23, 2017
Ben Townsend  
 
Sunny, sheltered, and warm. The rock quality down low leaves something to be desired, but it steadily improves with height. We did the right exit on the third pitch and found one 5.8-5.9 move getting up into the wide stem. Fun climbing, very well protected. The gully descent is long and engaging -- traversing high into the head of the gully keeps it pretty easy, though. Nov 20, 2014
Climbed this with my two daughters today. We belayed the 2nd pitch from the epoxy'd bolts at the top of the 1st pitch. Would like to know if this is the original and intended top of the 1st pitch because it made the 2nd pitch definitely longer than 100' per Handren, maybe more like 170'. Anyway, we all thought the 2nd pitch was great.

Agree that however you go, right or left, on the 3rd pitch, it's not 5.6! I went left and I'd call it 5.8+. My oldest daughter went right and called it 5.9. My youngest daughter also went right, but was able to get her little fingers into the right hand crack and stemmed all the way up like it was nothing!

The walk-off is not trivial! Maybe we didn't go high enough before we cut down into the gully. We ended up finding two short pre-slung rappels, the first one with slings around a small tree, and the second with slings around a sort-of chalkstone. After those two rappels we saw some cairns and scooted right on out. Curious to know if we were on route, because I've not seen any mention of short rappels on the walk-off. Rappelling the route itself looks like a rope-eater. Perhaps the best way down is the double-rope rappel off a tree that's supposed to be about 200' to the right of the top-out, but we didn't take the time to find it. Anyone know if it's already slung, or how to identify it? Nov 12, 2013
BarryO
  5.7
BarryO  
  5.7
Loved this climb!!! Very varied with lots of interesting moves to make and sunny all day. Have to go back and try the right variation on pitch 3 but the original was really cool!!! Thank you to the FA party for putting this up - awesome stuff : )

The epoxied anchors were unnecessary and were not used on our climb. Keep it natural!!! Feb 20, 2013
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8+
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8+
Fun climb with a quick approach. Rapped with a single 60m rope. Agree that the stemming on P3 is harder than 5.6-5.7 and very height dependent. My wife is 5'4" and wasn't able to stem, which made it look more like 5.9. Feb 28, 2012
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
We found refuge here from a blustery southwesterly wind.

On P3, I took the fat crack move to the left(rather than attempting the wide stemming that looked inevitable if I went right). The first couple moves to gain it are easily a Joe Herbst 5.8+ IMO, but you can protect it and it's fun. After the big moves, you trend right to join the anchor above the wide slot.

We found bailer gear in the slot below the anchor. Apparently not everyone is ready to bite off a 5.9 move on the "5.6" pitch(according the Handren guide) of a 5.7 route. I don't blame 'em. Apr 28, 2010
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.9
A beautiful route....especially the 2nd pitch! From the ground, it appears like one would need big gear. Nope...took medium nuts and cams to a #1 Camelot (gear inside is beautiful). Fun movement throughout.

We took the varation on pitch #3, which makes a RIGHT turn up a stemming slot (nice gear on the right side of the slot). Found an old "tat line" stuck in the crack. Getting to the right side of the slot and into the crack is the crux. The three of us all agreed it felt like 5.9. Interestingly enough, this varation ends at a two bolt anchor. Apr 1, 2010
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
Is it just me, or does Handren's topo put pitch 3 way too far to the left? Going out that way was some jingus 5.9 BS, so I was probably off route. Apr 23, 2009
raygay
Las Vegas, Nevada
raygay   Las Vegas, Nevada
My partner wished I hadn't discouraged him from bringing a few hexes in the 1 to 3-inch size for this route. There isn't much need for tiny (1/2-inch and smaller) gear. We used the walk-off descent to the left. It's not too badly overgrown, but does involve some mild route-finding to find the best place to drop into the gully and some short downclimbs at one point in the gully. Dec 13, 2008
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
Whoever placed those bolts is really doing a lot for the climbing at Red Rock. Way to diminish the adventure of this route. That's really what we need, more convenient routes. This whole "wilderness experience" thing was way over-rated.

Why can't people just climb these routes as is? What inspires people to leave such a permanent mark? The Ledger is a two-star route and I've climbed it twice but is the Disney-fication necessary? Why thrust an obscure route forward by making it so much less committing? There were two acceptable descent options already - one a walk-off. These bolts are not necessary.

Don't you people get any satisfaction when you climb a route that has no fixed gear? Isn't that the purist form of trad climbing? Oh, well, maybe it was a guide that bolted The Ledger, just to diversify his portfolio of routes to bring clients. I can't think of any other reason why someone would leave there useless garbage behind on a remote route like this one. Feb 17, 2008
gilbert.2003
Burke, VA
  5.8
gilbert.2003   Burke, VA
  5.8
Epoxy'ed bolts at top of 1st pitch and top of crag make for easy rap with two 60m ropes. Feb 17, 2008
All three pitches protect well. Pitch 2 and 3 are fun pitches with a variety of moves. My only complaint is that I wished the pitches were longer , but a worthwhile route if your looking for a quick multipitch with beautiful views up top. I prefer the rap off the tree to the climber's right, over the overgrown walk off/downclimbing to the left. Dec 26, 2005