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Pazookieland

5.7, Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.1 from 12 votes
FA: Jason Martin and Marie Dybala, 2005
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 10-Pine Creek C… > Brass Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route was named for the excellent dessert found at BJ's brewpub.

Pazookieland can be found just left of Birdland. Indeed, Pazookieland is an excellent alternative to the first two pitches of Birdland. From the top of the second pitch it is easy to access the Bighorn handcrack, Rawalpindi and the upper pitches of Birdland.

Pitch One:Start on a nice ledge just up and left of Birdland. This route follows the obvious cleft to the left of the previously mentioned route. Ascend the crack up to what looks like an overhanging offwidth. Bypass this on the left. It is not as hard as it looks and is easily protectable. Build a belay station above this at two small bushes. (5.7)

Pitch Two:Continue up and left, bypassing a second small roof. This is the crux of the pitch. After this section the climbing eases to low fifth class. Ascend to a large ledge where it is possible to look down at the belay station at the top of the second pitch of Birdland. You will be directly under the Bighorn handcrack. Build an anchor here. (5.7)

From this position, Bighorn can easily be climbed. To access Birdland, traverse into the middle of the the third pitch and continue up the route.

Protection

Standard Red Rock Rack to 3 inches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This shows the entire route from the bottom following the obvious crack system up and left.  The finish of the climb is apparent from this photo and part of the same ledge system that finishes Birdland/Big Horn's second pitch.
[Hide Photo] This shows the entire route from the bottom following the obvious crack system up and left. The finish of the climb is apparent from this photo and part of the same ledge system that finishes Bird…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] These two pitches are the same pitches described for the start of Rawalpindi.

Jason Oct 12, 2006
Ben Taggart
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] If you do just the first two pitches described here and want to call it, from the P2 belay you can downclimb right (easy, not exposed at all) to the huge ledge at the top of Birdland P2, then rap down that with a single 70m (and likely end up waiting).

Fun quick route with airy, exposed moves on jugs getting over the bulges on both pitches. Dec 6, 2018