PRINT: Rock Climb Pazookieland, Red Rocks

Pazookieland

5.7, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 2.1 from 17 votes
FA: Jason Martin and Marie Dybala, 2005
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (10) Pine Creek… > Brass Wall

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

This route was named for the excellent dessert found at BJ's brewpub.

Pazookieland can be found just left of Birdland. Indeed, Pazookieland is an excellent alternative to the first two pitches of Birdland. From the top of the second pitch it is easy to access the Bighorn handcrack, Rawalpindi and the upper pitches of Birdland.

Pitch One:Start on a nice ledge just up and left of Birdland. This route follows the obvious cleft to the left of the previously mentioned route. Ascend the crack up to what looks like an overhanging offwidth. Bypass this on the left. It is not as hard as it looks and is easily protectable. Build a belay station above this at two small bushes. (5.7)

Pitch Two:Continue up and left, bypassing a second small roof. This is the crux of the pitch. After this section the climbing eases to low fifth class. Ascend to a large ledge where it is possible to look down at the belay station at the top of the second pitch of Birdland. You will be directly under the Bighorn handcrack. Build an anchor here. (5.7)

From this position, Bighorn can easily be climbed. To access Birdland, traverse into the middle of the the third pitch and continue up the route.

Protection

Standard Red Rock Rack to 3 inches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This shows the entire route from the bottom following the obvious crack system up and left. The finish of the climb is apparent from this photo and part of the same ledge system that finishes Bird…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason D. Martin

5.7

These two pitches are the same pitches described for the start of Rawalpindi.

Jason Oct 12, 2006

Ben Taggart
Oakland, CA

If you do just the first two pitches described here and want to call it, from the P2 belay you can downclimb right (easy, not exposed at all) to the huge ledge at the top of Birdland P2, then rap down that with a single 70m (and likely end up waiting).

Fun quick route with airy, exposed moves on jugs getting over the bulges on both pitches. Dec 6, 2018