Sugar and Spice
Avg: 1.5 from 4 votes
Routes in Ginger Buttress
|All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Cayenne corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Power Failure T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Sugar and Spice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||911 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionSugar and Spice. This is actually two routes, a combination of polar opposites. Allow me to explain...
I've had my eye on a possible line to the right of Ginger Cracks, so we went out to explore. We started up a corner system, and soon saw signs of previous passage: fixed pro and rap stations. But the gear was really ancient. We saw hexes with the sharp corners and circular lightening hole like they had in the early 70's. A wired hex with no shrink wrap. An old Star Dryvin bolt. The climbing was tricky, committing, and difficult to protect, even with cams. But the story told by the old hardware was pretty obvious: the hardmen of the 70's had been here long ago. As we worried above some fragile stoppers, we could see, twenty feet to our right, a line of shiny, sturdy-looking bolts. Another unrecorded climb. The bolts ultimately helped us, though. When our crack petered out on a blank wall three pitches up, we had a ready-made rappel route.
In fact, even the top of our climb had some shiny new bolts to rap from, since the other route had merged with ours for the last 80 feet. Even as we arranged our rappel on the modern hardware, we could see a few tattered threads of the light blue webbing that served as the rappel anchor for the old-timers. As we descended, Joanne eyed the other route. "Look," she said, "they've sport bolted it." The rock looked solid and clean, so we headed back up. Not quite a sport climb, though. It was runout on the easy stuff, and the few gear placements we came across were very welcome. Another good route, worth sharing with the Red Rock community.
I've never heard of a name for either of these climbs, and have therefore taken the liberty of coining my own. Certainly the first ascentionists of the initial climb have had a few decades to put forth a name if they wanted to, and none has come to light. The second route is more modern, but there is this one little thing. A handhold appears to have been enhanced by some questionable drillwork, so it seems unlikely that the FA party is seeking publicity. Based on the proximity of the nearby Ginger Cracks, the close relationship of the two new routes, and the ambiguous status of the bolted route, my solution is to package them together and call it "Sugar and Spice." Like the sweetener, the bolted route is pleasant, even if lacking in nutritional value. The challenging protection on the older line, in contrast, contributes a distinct sensation of spiciness. Together, they are a palatable combination. (If anyone has better information, send it in and we'll post a correction.) The descriptions follow:
Spice, 5.9 About 30 feet right of Ginger Cracks is an obvious corner system with a bush about 80 feet up. Climb this for three pitches to a bolted anchor. Bring extra cams in the finger sizes, and lots of thin wires. Not that you'll get to place a lot of them, but if you have a lot, you might happen to have size you actually need.
Sugar, 5.10a Immediately right of Spice a small buttress forms a low angle apron. Start on the right side of this and climb to a bolted anchor. A few bolts and some small cams provide protection. The first pitch is only 5.7 or 5.8, but a little runout. The second pitch starts with a few gear placements before reaching a row of bolts leading to the second anchor. From here you can move left for ten feet and join Spice for a final pitch, or rappel. Two 60-meter ropes reach the ground from this point. One rope will probably reach the first-pitch anchors, but we did not check this (so be careful!)