PRINT: Rock Climb Joanne of Arch, Red Rocks

Joanne of Arch

5.9, Trad, 4 pitches,

Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
FA: Joanne & George Uriosite
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (18) Windy Peak > S Face

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Approach as for other climbs on Windy Peak, except after you gain the main terrace cut across the drainage low and cross to east side of the base of Windy Peak. Look for the awesome arch the climb ascends the right side and goes through the center. There is an exposed 4th class pitch of 150' to the base of the climb - although in a second attempt I led a direct line up to the base of the route and it went at 5.5. Pitch 1 (5.7) - ascend a nice crack to a roof, escape to the right and into an alcove to belay. Pitch 2 (5.9) - make tricky moves to gain the awesome arching dihedral to a two bolt hanging belay. Pitch 3 (5.8) - continue through the overhang at the notch and up the face.Pitch 4 - continue on easy terrain to gain the top of the formation. Descend to the east or rap off pitch 2 with 2 ropes. Slung a huge bolder at the top of the 4th class ramp and variation first pitch to gain the main ledge at the base of Windy Peak.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

We thought this looked fun ...

Jesse in the dihedral

Maurice Horn belaying at the top of the second pitch.

One version of this line

Maurice Horn starting the second pitch, Joanne of Arch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Barnes

We replaced 2 bolts at the 3-bolt anchor on top of pitch 2 in March 2006. The 3rd original bolt is still there, and pretty beat-up (we'll get back and pull it sooner or later).

Do NOT rap from pitch 3 - that roof is fully knife-edged, and truly dangerous. Either rap from pitch 2 or continue to the top.

Awesome corner, a great end-of-the day finish if you cruise one of the other routes earlier. Apr 10, 2006

Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY

5.9 R

We got full value on this route on a cold January day. Pro for the start of the third pitch is tricky to 'not there', and not that good till you are ready to turn the roof. The rap anchor at the top of the third pitch was one stopper, decent, and a knotted/jammed sling, pretty weathered. I'd want to beef it up substantially if I were to rap from that point. We continued for another pitch, then two more of 4th/easy 5th, trending east, then a bunch of scrambling after unroping, before we were on non-technical ground. It was more complex than we anticipated and with short January days we were slightly spooked, but all came out well. There were some cairns on the way down and the easy slopes visible to the east from the climb bring you right back to your packs.
If I did it again I think I'd go to the top once more, but with more gear I also wouldn't mind the rap from the third belay, watching where I laid the rope as I went down the roof. Jan 5, 2009

Doug Hemken
Delta, CO

We continued on to the top of the E summit, then followed the cairns across the knife-edge W to the main summit.

Great day! The first 3 pitches are very nice, and we found two more pitches up higher by continuing straight up, ~ 5.8 - 5.10, depending on how you approached the final bulge. Jan 13, 2014