Avg: 2.4 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches|
|FA:||FRA Ryan Mcphee, Bill Thiry, John Wilder, Larry DeAngelo|
|Page Views:||3,625 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
About a hundred yards to the left of the Frigid Air Buttress, a rounded whitish apron leans against the lower wall. Scramble up ledges on its left side for a few hundred feet to a rope-up point where the rock steepens.
Pitch 1: On the right, climb a convoluted offwidth crack formed by the left edge of a huge flake (5.9). The easier chimney above is unprotected. The flake rounds off to a good belay ledge (which is also the ledge beneath the 5.9 handcrack halfway up the Frigid Air Buttress route).
Pitch 2: Avoid the FAB crack, and instead climb the left-leaning jam crack in the clean varnished wall on the left. (5.8)
Pitch 3: A short pitch up and left to a big ledge.
Pitch 4: Move to the back right corner of the ledge and climb a varnished corner, then go left and belay among broken rocks in the main gully system.
Pitch 5: Climb to the back of the gully then go up a dark, tight, fully enclosed vertical chimney tunnel.
Pitch 6: Easy climbing leads to the top.
Descent: Scramble left to the standard rappel route (2 ropes) down Burlesque.