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Routes in Frigid Air Buttress

Blue Bunny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burlesque T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dear Diary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frigid Air Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Linda's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Middle Earth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches
FA: FRA Ryan Mcphee, Bill Thiry, John Wilder, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 2,273 total, 14/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is an interesting route with some good climbing. The name relates to the long, fully enclosed tunnel on the fifth pitch. Two ropes are needed for the rappel.

About a hundred yards to the left of the Frigid Air Buttress, a rounded whitish apron leans against the lower wall. Scramble up ledges on its left side for a few hundred feet to a rope-up point where the rock steepens.

Pitch 1: On the right, climb a convoluted offwidth crack formed by the left edge of a huge flake (5.9). The easier chimney above is unprotected. The flake rounds off to a good belay ledge (which is also the ledge beneath the 5.9 handcrack halfway up the Frigid Air Buttress route).

Pitch 2: Avoid the FAB crack, and instead climb the left-leaning jam crack in the clean varnished wall on the left. (5.8)

Pitch 3: A short pitch up and left to a big ledge.

Pitch 4: Move to the back right corner of the ledge and climb a varnished corner, then go left and belay among broken rocks in the main gully system.

Pitch 5: Climb to the back of the gully then go up a dark, tight, fully enclosed vertical chimney tunnel.

Pitch 6: Easy climbing leads to the top.

Descent: Scramble left to the standard rappel route (2 ropes) down Burlesque.

Protection

Big cam for the opening offwidth

Photos

Flavaflav
Las Vegas, NV
 
Flavaflav   Las Vegas, NV
 
Repeated this line today, had some thoughts. - worthy adventure, big ledges. I led the handcrack and thought the exit was a bit hard for 5.8. The upper right leaning corner looks like garbage, but actually has pretty cool climbing. Finally, I bet a pretty big waitsted person could fit through there if you go in the right way. My front side never touched the front angle, at least 2" in front of me at all times. Sep 30, 2016
Arin Earl  
 
Did this yesterday, 12 July. If I were to recommend this route to anyone, I would do so because of the pitch 5 tunnel. That thing is a blast! I would agree that anyone with a 36" or bigger waist might have some issues getting through the squeeze and if you are claustrophobic, you might have some issues. A lot of spider webs, dirt, and other fun stuff in there.

If you lead the pitch, it's a good laugh watching from the top as your second is squeezing through.

Also, plenty of good pro to be found in the tunnel. Did some gardening as well. Jul 13, 2015
WillF  
The hand crack/face pitch and the tunnel pitch were fun. The tunnel pitch was more exciting than tunnel vision's and easy to protect.

However it was a tight squeeze to exit the tunnel, my chest and hips barely fit through (is there such a thing as a hip jam, because I did some) with a 36 inch waist. Apr 2, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
This was a good route. The first pitch is burly at the grade, I thought, but then, what offwidth isnt?

The handcrack is a delight to climb- heck, it was the inspiration for the rotue!

Thanks for this one, Larry, glad I got to be a part of it. Oct 8, 2005