All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Oak Creek Canyon > Friar & Byrd Pinnacle

Lemon Bomb

Name: Lemon Bomb
Rating: 2.7

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Boondoggle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Byrd Pinnacle Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Feather S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Friar, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	J + J Groove T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lemon Bomb T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Red Zinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Trim T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	V Formation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Whoosh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wrangler Hero? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Xyphoid Fever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Xyphoid Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	36.10394, -115.48544
FA:	Dirk McDiggler & Drug Shop Dave
Page Views:	1,993 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Arthur Parker on Jan 31, 2004
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

The first pitch had been done years ago but the second is quite stout, strenuous and a real battle to protect. The full route is called Lemon Bomb, 170 ft 5.11d. Start as for Red Zinger at the base of the deep left facing corner.

1. 90 ft 5.9 Layback up the wide flake to the left of the main corner. Continue up the thinner cracks above to an anchor on a ledge.

2. 80 ft 5.11d Continue up the tips crack into an awkward flare. Above the flare an easier fist crack leads to a ledge on the right with an anchor.

(Admin note: Apparently some sources incorrectly identify this route as "The A Crack," but the actual A Crack is really about 150 yards to the right of Red Zinger down and around the corner on the right side of the Byrd Pinnacle.)