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Routes in The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle

A Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boondoggle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Byrd Pinnacle Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feather S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Friar, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J + J Groove T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lemon Bomb T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Zinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trim T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
V Formation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whoosh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrangler Hero? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xyphoid Fever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Xyphoid Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dirk McDiggler & Drug Shop Dave
Page Views: 880 total, 5/month
Shared By: Arthur Parker on Jan 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The first pitch had been done years ago but the second is quite stout, strenuous and a real battle to protect. The full route is called Lemon Bomb, 170 ft 5.11d. Start as for Red Zinger at the base of the deep left facing corner.

1. 90 ft 5.9 Layback up the wide flake to the left of the main corner. Continue up the thinner cracks above to an anchor on a ledge.

2. 80 ft 5.11d Continue up the tips crack into an awkward flare. Above the flare an easier fist crack leads to a ledge on the right with an anchor.

(Admin note: Apparently some sources incorrectly identify this route as "The A Crack," but the actual A Crack is really about 150 yards to the right of Red Zinger down and around the corner on the right side of the Byrd Pinnacle.)

Protection

Single set of cams from #00 tcu to #4 camalot, rp's, wires, a really big cam (9 inches?) might make the flare on pitch 2 less bold.

Photos

Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
 
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
 
I thought this was super fun. The first pitch is a wonderful warm up for the wall, worth doing even without p2. Wide layback with 3s and 4s leads to a thoughtful move off a midway stance with hand sized gear at your feet. Pitch two was insecure with abstract movement and tiny pro. I protected the bouldery moves off the ledge with ball nuts, but just RPs could do fine. Pro is good, not too bold, a worthy line! I'd bring singles .1-4, RPs, and optional sliders. No large cam needed. Jan 1, 2017
beny  
this route is great. sliders might make you feel a bit better at the crux. i don't know about the big cam suggestion; it wouldn't fit at the crux where you need it, and the gear above (where it could fit), is good in the small sizes. this pitch also makes for a good warm-up for the .12b flare on atmospheres on the jet stream wall. Mar 26, 2009
10b4me  
I have heard of folks climbing the flare above Red Zinger, did you find any sign of passage above the roof? Sep 22, 2005