Mountain Project Logo

Routes in East Face

Action by Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aid Crack, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Back in the Saddle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Black and White Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Blockade Runner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Boobs, Bikes & Beer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Diet Delight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Crack, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hugh's Banner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jackass Flats T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Of Mice And Men T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1977 George and Joanne Urioste
Page Views: 3,323 total, 21/month
Shared By: Arthur Parker on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


53 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start on the face right of the big overhang on Action by Knight.

1. Thin cracks up then left to small ledges.

2. Up and left to an overhang, then follow cracks to a ledge with a bush.

3. A corner goes up and right to the top.

Descend the gully to the left with short rappels.

Protection

Thin wires
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
Super fun route- really high quality and worth the short hike. Three really high quality pitches, difficulty hovered in the 5.7-5.8 range the entire way. Take extra finger sized cams for this one.

Probably best to rappel the route to the right of Diet rather than take that gully. Its a slog and kind of sucky to get into, depending on where you drop in (higher is better).

The rap station for taking 3 single rope (70m) raps down from the top is about 20' above the top of this route, hidden in the next slot up.

If you do elect to go up this route in the future, give me a shout and I'll give you the quicklinks and rings you'll need to update the old stations.

Also, pretty sure that bolted station with the red tat is off route- i think thats the anchor for a bold 5.10 route just right of this one. I belayed at the pin (good gear just above it) on a small ledge. Mar 26, 2016
Drive In: Our standard rental car did not have the clearance to make it all the way down the gravel road to the nearest parking area, so we had to park farther away and hike in. I would recommend using a higher-clearance vehicle if you can. The parking areas along the gravel road were littered with broken automotive glass and spent shotgun shells.
Approach: The trail up the slope that we found did not match the trails shown on p19 or p24 of the Handren guide, but followed the ridge between two gullies that went up and ended at the base of the descent gully, at the left side of the East Face and to the right of the lower red cliff band.
P1: Short crux with solid hand jams and thin feet, rest was easy climbing. Ended at small ledge with an old fixed pin.
P2: Went up and right, passing to the right of the bolt. All easy climbing. Ended on the oak tree ledge.
P3 and P4: Combined pitches because P3 belay looked uncomfortable, I didn't see much good pro there, and P3 and P4 are both trivially short. Went up the easier left crack on P4.
Descent: Picture on P29 of Handren guide appears to show the hard gully that starts with a short rappel. We went up past the big dead standing tree to the "easy" gully that is well marked with cairns. Even the "easy" gully involves many short down-climbing sections. Leave your climbing shoes on until you reach the bottom of the gully. This descent is notably harder than the descent gullies for Frogland, Olive Oil, and Tunnel Vision.
Exit: Followed same trail as approach.
Conclusion: Every pitch has some interesting moves on it. However we felt that the route was too short to justify the effort of the approach and descent (Too much work for not enough climbing). Apr 1, 2012
George Wilson
Las Vegas
  5.8+
George Wilson   Las Vegas
  5.8+
Great route!! The first pitch had a 5.9ish move involving a jam with limited feet. There was a bolt to the right of the first belay station...Maybe a variation? Looked spicy!! We had four falcons flying around us all day! Oct 5, 2009
brucelacroix
Portland, OR.
  5.8+
brucelacroix   Portland, OR.
  5.8+
A fun route. The crux for me was the start. Feb 21, 2009
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
  5.9-
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
  5.9-
First pitch had a bouldery start and a solid 5.9 move, the rest of the climb seemed soft for the grade. Last 2 pitches(linked) had some really fun athletic moves. Feb 21, 2009
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.9
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
  5.9
There's a bolted rap stance out on the face to the right of the belay ledges at the top of the first pitch. We didn't see any further stations above but could easily have missed them (or it). Maybe it's there to make it easy to do the first pitch and bail. Who knows?
We enjoyed the route and if you go to the very top you'll get into the good descent gully as Brian describes. Nothing hairy about it, other than a small group of bighorns on this occasion. Nov 28, 2008
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
"The descent is heinous, super-steep with sections of 5th class downclimbing. If I did this again I'd trail a second rope and rap down."

You might have missed the descent, then. Probably need to go further to the West. Its a fairly casual walk down a gully with some steep scrambling, but, never scary and no 5th class.

I liked the top pitches. The crack system is pretty cool and topping out is neat. Different strokes I suppose. Apr 11, 2008
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.9
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.9
Fun route. Mostly 5.7 with a couple harder moves. The descent hike is fast and not too bad. If you feel the need to rappel you're in the wrong gully. From the top of the route traverse climber's left and up and around the formation until you see a fully that looks steep but reasonable. Apr 8, 2008
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
Original Urioste description seems more accurate than the new guidebook, IMHO. It's really only a 3 pitch route and seemed more like a 5.8 than 5.9. Did break out the last pitch into two to belay with a view down the last pitch rather than over the top and back in the scrub oak (not really any descent anchor options near enough to the edge at the top to allow for a view of the follower).

The second pitch crux protected by the new bolt (thanks Greg!) and old pin: my partner led through up left, rather than stepping out right so I can see why the pin is there (old SMC shallow angle, not a deep placement but I tapped on it a bit and it seemed sorta solid in that horizontal). Climbing up right then back left seemed easier above the bolt, though.

Fun route. Well protected crux areas and neat positions. All three pitches have memorable climbing. Mar 24, 2008
FYI: On 10/24/07 I belayed at the base of the route in the midst of friendly bees that were swarming about the pretty yellow flowers whispering sweet nothings in, and out of my ears; so if you're allergic to Bee Stings, bring your EpiPen this time of year. Nov 2, 2007
We replaced the original protection bolt on pitch 2 with a stainless 1/2" bolt in March 2006. While it looked OK, like all other older Urioste 3/8" bolts, the original was a junk-metal 3/8" bolt which could easily snap in a fall, and in addition had a thin SMC hanger that are known to break. The piton left of the bolt is off-route, and we couldn't pull it without damaging the rock, so it's still there (just don't bother clipping it). Apr 10, 2006