[Hide Comment] The 5.5 Peaches is a fun, mellow lead. The walk off is pretty fun also. Aug 6, 2005

[Hide Comment] The "walk off" is hardly that. It involves quite a bit of worming your way through not so nice prickley bushes and a solid 5th class move with 100+ feet of exposure. If you or your partner aren't comfy with these, I'd highly suggest bringing up a second rope (120' I believe) as there is a rap station on a tree at the top. It's also easy to use said tree as your anchor to belay the second up. No anchor building skills needed. Apr 18, 2008

[Hide Comment] I led this route on Sunday morning and it was nicely shaded. Had a bit of trouble at the top, needed some extra slings and just ran short. I traversed right of the roof after the crux and continued up the 5.5 route to the top. We knew the descent was a traverse right but it had been a long time since we had been up there and we were a bit uncomfortable with the exposure.

We did not have two ropes and a 60 meter will not reach the ground from the rap ring/anchor. I climbed above the route through a 5.2 section and then we began crossing the terrace,heading east. FYI, if this happens to you, simply head south across various ledges and boulders and the canyon will rise up to meet you. There is a nice 3rd class path that leads down from the terrace. Once you are on the deck, it is about a 5 minute walk back to the base. Aug 19, 2008

[Hide Comment] There currently (Nov 08) is not an anchor there. The downclimb was a bit of work but we certainly didn't have to do any 'solid 5th class' moves to get down. Nov 10, 2008

[Hide Comment] There is one section in the walk-off that appears to be quite exposed if you want to walk your way around it, but if you get down and crawl under the bulge that makes it appear so exposed, it's quite safe and easy to get passed without a belay. As of February '09, there is a rap station at the top of Peaches that requires two 60M ropes to rappel. There is also a set of hangers with chains above the anchor to Sumo Greatness that you can rap directly from or use for belaying yourself down to the Sumo Greatness anchor to rap off of that. Both the Sumo Greatness anchor and the anchor above it can be rapped with a single 60M rope. Mar 1, 2009

[Hide Comment] Walkoff is a little exposed, but careful route finding renders it manageable.

Anchor on tree is quite solid. Bring some extra shoulder length slings to extend the pro you place as you approach the roof.

By staying left and working the crack through the roof, it's a solid 5.9.

Staying under the roof keeps it a good 5.7.

Going right onto the face makes this a 5.5. Mar 25, 2009

[Hide Comment] As of today the rap slings are gone. Jun 14, 2009

[Hide Comment] The rap slings are back and you can (just barely) rap the route with a single 70m rope. Loved the .7 variation. Mar 22, 2010

[Hide Comment] Slings gone Friday 4/23 Apr 23, 2010

[Hide Comment] Sling on the tree as of 4/25/10
Good climb, but for a beginning lead a little sketchy.
Apr 26, 2010

[Hide Comment] The sling is still on the tree today. Although the belay at the top was in the sun, the corner was fully shaded even at noon, making this a bearable climb on a hot summer day. The 5.7 variation is fun and a bit challenging in the squeeze on the right side of the roof. Jul 3, 2010

[Hide Comment] Slings still there as of 3/12/2011. The 5.7 is the way to go. Very good- I love Joe Herbst. Mar 12, 2012

[Hide Comment] Do the 5.7 variation, its a gem. But do be ware that the crux can be a bit spicy on an onsite lead. A fall at the wrong time would swing you into the corner pretty hard. So just don't fall when liebacking and squeezing into the chimney!

Slings, etc are still on the tree, but we built our own anchor off the tree for good measure.

The walkoff is also straightforward, but just be prepared for a funky and exposed 3rd class move about half way across the cliff band. Mar 31, 2012

[Hide Comment] A reasonably fun route to lead. It continually goes up and right, so the rope drag gets annoying, you could use half ropes for practice with that technique - then do the double rope rap from the tree.

Even though this is apparently 5.6-5.7, I somehow got myself in the position of doing a moderate move underneath some marginal rocks wedged in the corner about half way up. Apparently I should have gone right onto the face - but I think I skipped that because the protection out there seemed to be lacking. Nov 21, 2012

[Hide Comment] 5.7 variation. Slings on tree, got back to the ground with a 70m. Not as good as all the hype suggests. Bonus points if you sing ANY of Peaches' songs while leading this route. Dec 13, 2012

[Hide Comment] After we climbed Peaches, we found an overhang above it to the right. We scrambled above it and dropped top ropes. Does anyone know anything about this? May 20, 2014

[Hide Comment] We climbed this route back in early '92. After a string of rainy days it finally cleared enough to let the rock dry out, but our time was almost up, We spent the day in Willow Springs. Looking around we spied a line on the Children's wall and headed over. Not knowing there were Pictographs in the area we surprisingly stumbled upon them, amazed.
Knowing they were delicate we walked away along the wall and saw our line but it was still only 10 ft away from the ancient's hand prints. We decided to go for it thinking it'll be a quik route. I lead a good crack start into the corner above and then up to the roof and right. Some very nice sections BUT watch your rope drag around the overhang.
Once on top i set a belay and looked across to the parking area where several BLM rangers were sitting in their 4x4s intently watching us. I sensed we might be in for a conversation w/ them when we got back to the car.. As we finished and began the walk off, they left.... ever so slowly..Be careful of loose rock scree on the walk off shelf

I am surprised this section appears to be open due to the close proximity of the pictographs. On a subsequent trip the BLM had closed the area by putting up a Jackleg fence along the wall with a 10ft gap effectively keeping anyone from touching the rock art. Nov 16, 2014

[Hide Comment] On sunday, we were told by some previous climbers that the ranger had approached them telling them the route was closed because of proximity and that there had been a sign but it kept getting removed. I was surprised that there was no mention here. Apr 17, 2015

[Hide Comment] New slings on Peaches position the rap ring much closer to the tree. It is not possible to safely rap with one 70m. Need 2 ropes. Oct 17, 2016

[Hide Comment] Easy lead down low. A bit more interesting up top. Save some .3 C4 and small stoppers for protecting the top. Last pro was a #3 C4 before heading up and the right in an awkward lay back that is more secure than it feels. Webbing anchors on 6' tree at top. Need dual ropes for rappel. (or be comfortable with a subsequent ten foot chimney down climb off of one 70M rope.) Mar 20, 2017

[Hide Comment] Plenty of variations of this, especially after you have a TR setup (one 70m needed after extending the anchor to reduce drag). My favorite was traversing right into the crack and staying in it as long as possible. I also did a FAR right variation starting at some very juggy patinas over the roof that was pretty fun. In my opinion, this would not make a great beginner lead. Nov 27, 2017

[Hide Comment] I think I left my 0.5 C4 there a week or two ago. Any chance someone stumbled upon it? Dec 14, 2017

[Hide Comment] You can easily rap from the tree with an 80m Jan 2, 2018

[Hide Comment] Fun climb. 5.5 variation definitely has some spaced gear but climbing is very easy in those sections. Crux is well protected. Be sure to put long runners on every piece from your last before you traverse right and on as it traverses a lot. Rope drag was definitely strong even with long runners. Using only quickdraws would probably cause friction lock as you got higher up. Partner and I rapped from the tree with a 70m rope and made it to the bottom just fine. Jun 22, 2019

[Hide Comment] Can rap to the boulder just right of the start with a 70m, but not to the ground... tie knots Sep 28, 2020

[Hide Comment] Just a reminder about rapping off. A 70m rope only reaches the bottom if the anchor is extended about 10' from tree towards edge. Otherwise, bring up a 2nd rope. Walk-off is unpleasant and unnecessary. Oct 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] totally agree with comments on the walk off - scary. I looked at it, decided no way and went back to the route to rap (two ropes) Jan 4, 2023

[Hide Comment] Bats and rats! Don’t leave anything at base! Have fun! Apr 19, 2023

[Hide Comment] A fun and unique pitch of climbing. The description of the route here says it is closed to climbing but there is nothing at the site I saw that confirms this, nor are there any petroglyphs that you are climbing on. Apr 27, 2023