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Kemosabe

5.10a, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 98 votes
FA: Mamusia, Van Betten, Nordblum, Harrison, Conz, Schoeder, Broussard 1983
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 07-Willow Spring > Ragged Edges Area
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Past the left end of Ragged Edges Cliff is a shady hollow featuring the climb Tonto. To the left of Tonto is a large white arching flake. Climb the arĂȘte of this flake leading to a thin right-leaning crack on the outside of this arch. Continue up to a bolt on the face as the crack peters out. Climb to the left of the bolt for the 5.9 escape or to the right for the 5.10a finish. Belay at some horizontal cracks and rappel from a tree at the top of Tonto with one 60 meter rope.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3.5 Camalot

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kemosabe - Willow Springs
[Hide Photo] Kemosabe - Willow Springs
Jake tip toeing up the massive rounded flake that makes Kemosabe.
[Hide Photo] Jake tip toeing up the massive rounded flake that makes Kemosabe.
The beautiful start of Kemosabe,on a hot summer afternoon.
[Hide Photo] The beautiful start of Kemosabe,on a hot summer afternoon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This was my first .10a lead and I have to say, I was really glad to see that brand new ASCA bolt up there upon my arrival. The route is tamer now with the good bolt, although the exposure and the slightly insecure moves to finish the route still make it exciting! Jul 31, 2005
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
[Hide Comment] This was very mentally challenging for me. I swear that I was going to fly off the edge. Thankfully I didn't.

This reminds me of Hairlip at Suicide. Feb 19, 2007
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] There is far less pro on this one compared to either Chicken Eruptus or Sheep Trail. I took the right finish (supposedly the harder one) and thought it was pretty easy. You don't need anything larger than a #1 camalot; but bring a few micro cams or even ball nuts if you have them. Apr 1, 2007
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
[Hide Comment] A couple of pieces of small pro can be placed at the first ledge up from the start and up the first half of the right leaning seam. Edgy climb with thru-stepping halfway up before the bolt. I went left at the bolt as this seemed easier. Lots of smearing and careful foot placement is necessary. Apr 12, 2009
[Hide Comment] I thought this was PG-R. There's gear, but it has to be placed from tricky places and in some flaring spots. Some of it is pretend gear. Maybe a few offset nuts would be useful, but I didn't have any handy. I chose to go a bit left at the bolt and head back right. May 7, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10a R
[Hide Comment] Don't forget the RP's and small nuts. Beautiful route with an overwhelming impending doom feeling to it. Jan 31, 2012
Drew Peterson
  5.10- PG13
[Hide Comment] An interesting route that was far from a casual romp up a 10a. The "Impending doom" comment was spot on. I'd recommend Chicken Eruptus over this route. Mar 6, 2012
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Awesome lead with a bit off gippy feel as far as gear goes in the first 1/2. I loved this route. Apr 9, 2012
Tommy G.
Fort Polk, LA
[Hide Comment] Memorable climbing. I didn't want to fall above that over hang. Gear was somewhat sobering, but more than adequate. Dec 10, 2012
catrina sisco
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
[Hide Comment] I'm pretty confident when it comes to placing gear, and falling has never been an issue for me, I actually find it fun, until I lead this route. I almost want to call the gear fake due to the fact that your placing some of your smallest pieces you have in a shallow crack, in sandstone. I think that's what makes this route so fun though! Its one of those climbs you actually have to commit to, and pay attention to where you're placing your gear. A short route, with a high sketch factor. Be prepared to send it, because you wont want to fall. Feb 7, 2013
[Hide Comment] Onsight. Itty bitty gear, but you can get it in there. Probably don't want to fall! The largest piece you will use is a #2 BD cam. Otherwise, tiny gear. Mar 27, 2015
Rob Albert
  5.10a R
[Hide Comment] Not sure how all of the comments say, "Don't Fall!" yet the climb does not get at least a PG-13 or R rating. You definitely do not want to fall, and the gear is not awesome - thank god for the bolt, but then the second has just as much chance of hitting the ledge, as the leader. Still, fun climb. Apr 29, 2015
Flava Flav
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Today, got up to the bolt following after the leader skirted far left to avoid what I thought is actually a missing hold. looks like a plate sheared off the size of a big pancake when you're climbing up the rail, up and right of the bolt. Seemed quite impossible for 10a....If anyone wants to repeat the route to be sure.... Jan 22, 2016
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] the gear is not as bad as its reputation. C3's to .75" protect this climb well and small offset wires would be a bonus. some pieces were bomber, all pieces were fairly solid. Oct 7, 2018
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] Off-balance, awkward, insecure and semi-scary. Bring small cams and nuts. Oct 17, 2018
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
[Hide Comment] F this route from start to finish. May 2, 2019