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Routes in NE Buttress of Bridge Mountain
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Dogleg Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hodor Said Hodor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bill Bradley, Joe Herbst. Spring 1979. |
| Page Views: | 2,440 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | John Hegyes on Jun 30, 2005 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Dogleg Crack is located on the lower, northeast side of Bridge Mountain, about 200 yards east of Necromancer Wall. The Crack is the most recognizable feature - it is S-shaped - and it's on a large free-standing pillar of mostly brown varnished rock. Sight the pillar from the Icebox parking lot, head up the trail a ways until you can cut south through the wash and bushwhack up the slope to the base of the climb.
The route starts as an off-width chimney which is not very well protected. Proceed up the crack to a large ledge at the base of a dihedral on the right side of the pillar. Shoot up the left face to the top of the feature. You can climb the route in a single 200 foot pitch or belay at the ledge which would help alleviate rope drag.
Walk off down the gully on the left (east) side of the pillar back to the base of the climb. There is an optional short rappel at the start of this descent.
The Red Book describes this as "a popular crack climb," yet I had the feeling that it hadn't been climbed in years. The 5.8 rating seemed inconsistent with the old Herbst routes, for me this climb was much easier than say, Atras, the climb closer to Necromancer Wall.
The route starts as an off-width chimney which is not very well protected. Proceed up the crack to a large ledge at the base of a dihedral on the right side of the pillar. Shoot up the left face to the top of the feature. You can climb the route in a single 200 foot pitch or belay at the ledge which would help alleviate rope drag.
Walk off down the gully on the left (east) side of the pillar back to the base of the climb. There is an optional short rappel at the start of this descent.
The Red Book describes this as "a popular crack climb," yet I had the feeling that it hadn't been climbed in years. The 5.8 rating seemed inconsistent with the old Herbst routes, for me this climb was much easier than say, Atras, the climb closer to Necromancer Wall.
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