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Routes in North Eastern Buttress of Bridge Mountain

Dogleg Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hodor Said Hodor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Bradley, Joe Herbst. Spring 1979.
Page Views: 1,595 total, 11/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Jun 30, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Dogleg Crack is located on the lower, northeast side of Bridge Mountain, about 200 yards east of Necromancer Wall. The Crack is the most recognizable feature - it is S-shaped - and it's on a large free-standing pillar of mostly brown varnished rock. Sight the pillar from the Icebox parking lot, head up the trail a ways until you can cut south through the wash and bushwhack up the slope to the base of the climb.

The route starts as an off-width chimney which is not very well protected. Proceed up the crack to a large ledge at the base of a dihedral on the right side of the pillar. Shoot up the left face to the top of the feature. You can climb the route in a single 200 foot pitch or belay at the ledge which would help alleviate rope drag.

Walk off down the gully on the left (east) side of the pillar back to the base of the climb. There is an optional short rappel at the start of this descent.

The Red Book describes this as "a popular crack climb," yet I had the feeling that it hadn't been climbed in years. The 5.8 rating seemed inconsistent with the old Herbst routes, for me this climb was much easier than say, Atras, the climb closer to Necromancer Wall.

Protection

Standard rack with a couple of larger pieces up to Camalot #4 or #4.5

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
Quality route, best done in two pitches. The chimney at the very start is a bit awkward until you can start stemming, but I had a perfect red Tricam in a pocket right where I needed it. Above there, it's just fun.

On the second pitch, we went all the way to the top of the spire for full value, but sadly the rock quality deteriorates; it makes more sense to head right into the slot, which is the start of the descent.

We freshened up the rap station, but really it's hardly needed. An easy ramp takes you a long way climber's left to the obvious gully, and if you hug the wall (a bit brushy) you're back at your packs almost immediately. Nov 1, 2015