Bighorn Buttress
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British R
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.15538, -115.49833 |
| FA: | Nick Nordblom and Jenni Stone, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 3,299 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | J. Thompson on May 2, 2005 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Bighorn Buttress ascend's the obvious varnished buttress located on the tier directly above the Black track buttress.Start near the right hand side of the buttress on top of a small pillar, on a good ledge. start up the face aiming for a short, thin crack leading to a small bush. Above the bush locate a bolt about 20ft up the face. Climb past the bolt and pull the bulge above(you'll be alittle runout), leading to another crack. Pitch 1 is 5.10- Belay at the obvious stance with fixed knots!! Pitch 2 starts up the obvious crack then heads right on the face towards a bolt, you'll want the bolt to be above you on the traverse. Turn the corner of the arete and find another bolt. From here there are 2 option's. Option 1; continue across the obvious varnished face, on very poor(breakable) holds until you reach a bolt(5.11+). Option 2; head straight up the arete until you reach an obvious horizontal hand traverse then climb right to the aforementioned bolt(5.10). From the bolt head up the obvious varnished corner, thru an easier section then up another varnished corner. Belay on the left side of the big ledge below some bush's. Pitch 3 Climb a shallow right facing varnished corner then up a white face, passing a bolt to a 2 bolt anchor(5.9).It is possible and recommended to link pitch's 3&4. Pitch 4 Climb the varnished face past a bolt aiming for the obvious right leaning crack. Continue up the crack to the summit (you'll once again be a little runout) and belay off of fixed gear in the summit boulder (5.10).
To descend rappel off the fixed gear in the summit boulder to the bolt anchor at the top of pitch 3. From the top of pitch 3 rappel to an anchor on a ledge to the right of the route- 2 ropes are needed one 70M will not work. From this anchor rappel to the ledge near the start of the route.



15 Comments