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Chicken Eruptus
5.10b R,
Trad, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 226
votes
FA: Harrison, Broussard, Van Betten, Mamusia - Spring 1983
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (07) Willow Spring
> Ragged Edges Area
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route begins 25 ft. (or so!) to the right of
Ragged Edges, look for the first bolt (it's up there alittle bit!). Climb up to the first bolt, then follow the path of least resistance past at least one more bolt. You will use mostly wires and small cams for the climb but slightly bigger cams can be used at the anchor. I gave this route an "s" per the guide book, however I feel it to be well protected for the solid 5.10 leader. Eating at the all you can eat chicken Buffet prior to climbing this route is, apparently, not recomended!!
To descend either walk off to the west or rap
Tonto with one rope (60 Meter).
Protection
Standard Rack
denver, co
Boulder, CO
city, state
fun line, more than 3 stars, imho. Dec 30, 2006
Orange, CA
Fort Collins, CO
Bishop, CA
Arvada
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
The grade is right on at 10b. If low tens are you lead limit, I wouldnt reccomend this climb. The gear is all there but this is a climb in which you need to know what the hell your doing. Alot of little creative placments make this thing awsome!!! Apr 24, 2009
Santa Cruz, CA
Superior/Lafayette, Co
Marbach
But very nice and smooth...
good protection possible.
On the right side of chicken is a route "Aikido" or similar called, 5.11d or so, here the R is missing in the guide, although from 1st to second bolt a deep grounder is possible and the crux move is to reach the second bolt!
Scary and death-fall possible!!!!! Apr 27, 2011
denver, co
I don't personally think it deserves an "R", however the guidebook I had at the time gave it one (well an "S" same same). As I remember there are a couple of spots that are, maybe, a tad runout...so in an effort to give people as much info as possible, I gave it an "R" and then explained it. I think with all of that (and now this) the Description and ratings should remain as is.
Cheers,
josh May 2, 2011
Joshua Tree, CA
This climb really doesn't have any harder moves than .10b, although there is a mono finger hold between the first and second bolt. I haven't had an occasion to use a mono hold as my primary hold on any climb, so that was "interesting". Especially when you start to feel the mono finger start to pump out. The boldness of the route and sustained factor definitely makes it seem harder than .10b. I'm really glad I didn't fall. Although I did take at the second bolt to rest before trying the 12-15 feet of unprotectable face to the mantle and rest ledge. My partner who followed said the route was outstanding, but I had a hard time enjoying it due to the boldness of the lead.
I took a double rack to 2". I can't see leading 200 feet with a single rack, as per the Handren guide book. Don't forget, you need to build a gear anchor at the top. I only had 4 cams and nuts to choose from. Ended up using a #00 master cam as part of the gear anchor. Mar 5, 2012
Boulder, CO
NEVADASTAN
Las Vegas, NV
Most people above are correct. PG13 at best in my opinion, all of the gear, when you get it, is really good. No moves harder than 5.10b and the rock quality is phenomenal. You get gear everywhere you need it.
I suppose it is bold, but I enjoy that so I found this climb quite nice. Jan 14, 2014
Heaven
The only run out part on this route is the end, in 5.4 territory. I brought double and had a lot of gear left over. I could have easily belayed at the tree, but since I had so much gear I used the hand sized horizontal which helped reduce a lot of rope drag.
Good route, but definately does not deserve a "R" rating, barely deserves a PG-13.
If you climb outside regularly on 5.10 then this will just be a fun-albeit thoughtful- route. If you are coming straight from the gym and are used to clipping every 3-4 feet then this will feel a bit run out, but unless you suck at placing gear then no part of this route should be considered dangerous. Mar 26, 2014
Los Alamos, NM
St. John
Homer, AK
Portland, OR
I'd give it the PG13 for the chance of groundfall while traversing at the beginning even though the climbing is very easy (<5.6) and for the top which is easy but runout and you wouldn't want to make a misstep and slide across those nobs and nubbins. Oct 13, 2017
Phila, PA
Mount Vernon, WA
Earth