PRINT: Rock Climb Edge of the Sun, Red Rocks

Edge of the Sun

5.10c, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 2.6 from 19 votes
FA: Dave Wonderly & Warren Egbert 1988
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (10) Pine Creek… > Magic Mountain > N Face

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

This route climbs the small face just to the right of Five Pack. Pitch 1: climb the arete and adjacent face to a good belay ledge. Pitch 2: go straight up the face with a few protection bolts and some gear placements to a bolted belay station near a big overhang. Pitch 3: climb left and up past protection bolts to a ledge beneath the final headwall. Climb straight up to a belay station at the top.

Rappel the route. Be careful of rope snags on the numerous flakes and horns. Alternatively, continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A different angle

Coming up the final pitch

Final pitch, final sequences on Edge of the sun

Routes on the Bottle: A) Bottle Bill, B) Five Pack, C) Texas Longneck, D) Edge of the Sun

Bob Rotert coming up pitch 2

Steve Johnson leading second pitch

Steve Johnson coming up first pitch

Looking down the incredibly insecure and scary pitch 2. Photo: Oskar L.

The beginning of pitch 3 on Edge of the Sun.

Pitch 2 on Edge of the Sun.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV

Can you rappel this route with a single 60 meter rope or do you need two ropes? Sep 17, 2005

Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV

5.10c

Rappel needs two ropes. Be careful of the 64,389 snaggy little flakes and horns on the face below and to the right. Sep 18, 2005

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO

Has anyone attempted to link the first two pitches together with a 60M rope? Oct 17, 2007

meo	[Hide Comment] The 3rd pitch is one of the best I've done. The dean said it was one of the best pitches he's ever done. Great face climbing with equally great exposure. The first pitch wanders a bit. I would not try and combine the 1st and 2nd. Oct 21, 2007

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10b/c PG13

The first two pitches are approach pitches for the third which is the interesting and fun climbing. Pitch 2 is a bit run out. To rappel and avoid rope snag - rap down to bottom of 3rd pitch, then over the lip straight into the canyon where you will find another rap point and won't hang up ropes (steep and clean). Feb 21, 2010

Justin Streit
Las Vegas, NV

So where does this actually start? A friend and I went to the base of this thing and there are three or four options around the right side of the arête, none of which look good. There is also an easy looking crack on the left side of the arête, but that doesn't seem to be on route according to Handren. Any help? May 10, 2014

Trundle Foot

This route raps with an 80m. May 23, 2017

Bolter Bot

This route has new anchors and chain, meaning if you rap the route you will be safe. If you rap over the side on from P2 to the alternative rap anchor, you will still have to use the tat and older bolts. Jul 5, 2017

wes calkins

The route starts on the left side of the arete at an easy crack, then continues to the right at an obvious spot about 40 feet up to a chocolate groove on the arete. all 3 pitches have different but good climbing. Protection bolts should be considered for replacement since the bolts that are there appear to have been hand drilled on lead and some have the stud of the bolt sticking out 2 inches and some are just plainly drilled crooked. All anchor bolts are of good quality and are reliable. Can rap the route with an 80m rope, a 70 will not work without shenanigans. A single rack from tcu to #3BD and half set of stoppers focused on middle sizes will suffice. Oct 6, 2018

Bob Rotert
Broomfield

We Started this route on the right side of the arete. In a flared chimney that goes over a small roof about 20 ft up. Continuing up this crack system for about 80 ft before angling left on face climbing to a ledge on the arete an the bolted belay. Very Interesting climbing but the rock is a bit spooky. Apr 1, 2022

Nate Redon
Seattle, WA

5.10c PG13

P2 and P3 were both excellent.

The route would be much more fun if the original bolts (including anchor) on P3 were replaced though. They looked like 3/8" studs with older SMC hangers but it's unclear how deep they're drilled with how much the studs are sticking out. All hardware for the first two pitches is modern and good. Mar 23, 2024

Lance Colley
Yosemite Valley

5.10c R

I left a climbing shoe on top of Pitch 1 while rappelling. It might be a little ways climbers left of the bolted anchor, this is where we pulled the rope from. It would be really sweet to get that shoe back, i'll happily pay for shipping and a reward. Not sure how often this route gets climbed... its a serious be rad climb. Apr 5, 2024