Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1979 George Urioste, Mike Ward, Dick Tonkin
Page Views: 4,291 total · 25/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


As you reach the base of the buttress, bear slightly right. this route faces northeast and follows a prominent, steep, left-facing dihedral for the first pitch. The start is immediately above a yucca. P1 goes up the thin crack for 80 or 90 feet to a bolted station. For P2, step back into the crack and follow it straight up for another 80 or 90 feet, to another bolted station. You can rappel from this point with a single 60-meter rope. There are additional pitches possible, but the rock quality declines.


At the start of this route, you can make good use of Lowe Balls or very tiny cams. The jam crack on the second pitch can use 3 or 4 #2 Camalots.
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
This is a really good route that follows a beautiful corner/crack system straight up for about a rope length. Although the start looks quite difficult, a really tiny cam and/or a ballnut give psychological pro for the initial moves that, while not easy, are not as tough as they look. From there, the climb head straight up through some of the best climbing I've done on a short climb in Red Rocks. Chalk up another classic in Black Velvet canyon.... Mar 14, 2005
phil broscovak  
A really pleasant route. The start looks intimidating but goes really well. I found two bomber small wired nuts that had me feeling fairly secure through the opening moves. After the first body length you get a good stance and can readily place solid pro. The rest of the climb is well protected and very enjoyable. Mar 14, 2005
Climbed the route on 3.16.05. Frist 2 pitches were great and the 3rd was a bit sandy/loose. The rap station at the third pitch consisted of 3 slings around a single small scrub oak. About 30 feet below was another rap station with a bunch of really old, weathered slings. We left a new spectra sling and a biner, but some one should bring ~10-15 feet of new webbing and replace all the old stuff.If I did the climb again, I would either skip the 3rd pitch or traverse left to the lower rap station. It might also be possible to down climb a gully to the lower rap station. Mar 16, 2005
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
Definitely bring some ballnuts for the start. The initial moves aren't that difficult but they require some problem solving so bring your thinking cap. For pitch two, doubles of Camalots #1 - #3 proved adequate. We took pitch three to the lower belay station after traversing left 30 feet. It wasn't worth it and the rock above was really bad. But the first two pitches are stellar. Jun 15, 2006
Portland, OR
rpc   Portland, OR
Start (crux) seemed easy for me but my wife disagreed - I'm 6'7" & she's 5'3" (maybe that's the reason :)....I could definitely reach up to some jugs.
Did 1st 2 pitches at the end of a day then rapped. Nice climbing on those. Mar 21, 2008
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Found a couple nice stopper placements, and a bomber 00 TCU placement that I could reach from a nice stance at the start of the route (but, I'm 6'1"). DMM peanut and BD micro nut. Also, above the 00 TCU another bomber small stopper can be placed.

Great route. I found the moves past the first corner over the break kinda hard for 5.9. Even at A0, this is a great route. The only detraction from the route quality is doing a third or more pitch. If you just do the first 2 pitches, you can get off with a single 60 (or 50?) meter rope. The third pitch is nice initially but the rock quality gets sketchy the higher you get, and, the traverse to that scrub oak is sandy. The slings on that scrappy scrub oak are ok, but, the rope pull is poor. Still well worth the relatively short (by RR standards) hike to do the first two pitches!

We got by easily with a double set of cams (no 3 #2 camalots). Crack gobbles up a variety of gear. Didn't place a #4 camalot either.

3 or 4 star first two pitches. No stars for the third pitch. Oct 19, 2008
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
A #5 HB offset seemed totally bomber getting off the deck. I had some Lowe balls along but the HB really 'felt' better. Didn't go ahead and fall on it, however, so what do I really know?
Very fun, quality route. We made it to the ground with one full 60m rap from the tree, out to the left on the third pitch. And we threw off a bunch of rocks lying around the rap station. No one was there but us, so it was a good chance to clean up. Dec 4, 2008
Arch Richardson
Grand Junction
Arch Richardson   Grand Junction
A 00 Metolius TCU adequately protected the initial moves. Overall a very fun and well protected climb. Apr 5, 2011
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
I'll echo the 00 and lowe ball. At 6' I was able to get the smallest lowe ball and a 00 before heading into the moves. Both seemed bomber. Great route! Apr 22, 2012
Ben Townsend  
Purple C3 is bomber for the start. The tree anchor at the top of pitch 3 (actually two trees and a fixed Lost Arrow) is OK but could use newer cord; we cut away some crusty old webbing that wasn't doing much, but it would probably take a whole 25' cordelette, which we didn't have, to do it right. Nov 3, 2013
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Handren guidebook pic shows P3 going to the upper oak bush, which is junk rock. The first 50 feet of P3 to the first big oak tree is worth doing. Jan 13, 2014
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
if doing P3 for just the first good 50 ft, the rap tree on big ledge about 20 ft left of the main crack is visible in this photo. the rap from that tree comes down onto the same anchor ledge atop P2, which extends quite far to climber's left from the P2 bolted anchor near the main crack

FYI, there are ticks around the base this time of year Mar 19, 2015
Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
From 5.8 to 10b!!?!?????


c'mon man... Oct 15, 2015