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Routes in Dickies Cliff

Gigantor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Guys and Ghouls T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lancaster Levels Luxor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seams like a butt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: George Reid, Todd & Donette Swain, Oct. 1994.
Page Views: 1,187 total, 7/month
Shared By: Randy Carmichael on Oct 23, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A bulge crux leads to pumpy terrain.

This classic crack is on the right side of Dickies Cliff. Head up easy terrain to a steep crack with an initial roof. Throw in some pro and some jams to negotiate the roof. Above the roof you will find a steep crack with good pro, good jams, and good edges. Near the top the climbing eases off. I think this climb is about 80 feet high.

Descent: Head right / west and 4th class down the gullies on the right side of the cliff. The third narrow gully on climbers right seemed easiest, but be careful.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. A #4 is perfect for protecting the roof. Use medium cams for the anchor (no bolt anchor).
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
This is a really good route, probably the best moderate on the two cliffs (Dickies and Gnat Man)- great jams througha bulge and then fun climbing to the top.

Take a standard rack- but do not forget a 4" cam, or you'll hose yourself using a smaller one at the crux. Jun 25, 2005
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
I imagine the route name was inspired by a nearby route called "Stukas Over Disneyland." The Stuka was a German dive-bomber in World War II, so this presents a rather bizarre image for "the happiest place on earth." The Lancaster was a British bomber of the period that would presumably wreak similar havoc in an attack on the Luxor (the pyramidal resort hotel on the Strip). Jun 23, 2005
What does this route name mean? Jun 22, 2005