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Routes in Dickies Cliff

Gigantor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Guys and Ghouls T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lancaster Levels Luxor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seams like a butt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Donette & Todd Swain, George & Catriona Reid, Halloween 1994.
Page Views: 1,300 total, 8/month
Shared By: Randy Carmichael on Oct 23, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A scary crack with spooky features.

This wide looking crack is situated in the center of Dickies Cliff. Start right of the crack on some huge huecos, take a left at the empty skull about 15 feet up, jam and face climb to the main crack. Stay in the main crack, and you will finish with fun moves as you pass a black hall to nowhere. "Beyond it is another dimension: a dimension of sound, a dimension of sight, a dimension of mind. You're moving into a land of both shadow and substance, of things and ideas. You've just crossed over into... the Twilight Zone."

If climbed on Halloween, this climb deserves 3 stars; any other time of the year 1 to 2 stars.

I believe this climb is over 100 feet.

Descent: Head right / west and 4th class down the gullies on the right side of the cliff. The third narrow gully on climbers right seemed easiest, but be careful.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. I used a #4 and small cams for the anchor (no bolt anchor).

Photos

Josh Noe
Las Vegas, NV
 
Josh Noe   Las Vegas, NV
 
One of the anchor bolts is missing its hanger, and the single remaining hanger doesn't have a rap ring. Sep 15, 2017
Lando
western Colorado
 
Lando   western Colorado
 
The bulge above the broken 2' hueco is 5.7+ relative to the area, could be reachy for some. The route goes at just over 90' if you extend your pieces; anchor on two Fixe hangers, no rap rings. 8' lead (two moves) exits above the belay ledge. Walk-off with a couple 5-7' downclimbs (climbers left) May 17, 2014