Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Inti Watana

5.10c, Trad, 2000 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 3.5 from 207 votes
FA: George Urioste, Mike Clifford, Sam Pratt and Bill Hotz.
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 13-Mt Wilson > Aeolian Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Inti Watana is an excellent face and crack climb. Although there are bolts on most pitches, it is not a sport climb. This climb is grade V if Combined with the upper portion of resolution arete. If anyone has first ascent info, please post.

Approach mount wilson from the old oak creek campground. Look for gully with a red and white rock cliff at the base. Continue up and around this and into the gully with cairns. When you reach a large pine tree go around to the left and up gully with a massive chock stone. Tunnel under the chock stone and look up to the right for bolts on the first pitch.

P1- Follow bolts up rock that climbs much better than it looks (5.10-).

P2- The crux of the route. Continue up the beautiful and intimidating head wall past many bolts to a belay stance (5.10+).

P3 through P9- Many pitches up to (5.9) in difficulty. Mixed gear and bolted climbing. One pitch is long and has no bolts on it.

P10- Climb up past many bolts on the the overhanging wall. The position is amazing on this pitch (5.9).

P11- Short pitch up past more bolts (5.9).

P12- The last pitch of the route. Continue up through an overhang and crack to the top of the pillar(5.9+).

From here the last part of resolution arete may be climbed or rappel the route. Bring some extra webbing for the rappel. If continuing to the top of Mount Wilson descend to a saddle and drop into first creek. This descent seems to have never ending gully travel. Once out of first creek walk the road back to the car.


Pro to 3",lots of quick draws, and maybe a larger piece if continuing up resolution arete.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Vicky Su way the hell up there on Inti.<br>
Photo by Steve Cox
[Hide Photo] Vicky Su way the hell up there on Inti. Photo by Steve Cox
(Damn that focal point!) Bill Geist making the moves through the crux on the second pitch. Great crack through a smooth, beautiful face. April 7, 2007.
[Hide Photo] (Damn that focal point!) Bill Geist making the moves through the crux on the second pitch. Great crack through a smooth, beautiful face. April 7, 2007.
The upper pitches of this route are stellar. Steep but super positive face climbing on awesome rock.  April 7th, 2007.
[Hide Photo] The upper pitches of this route are stellar. Steep but super positive face climbing on awesome rock. April 7th, 2007.
Horseshoe Wall (above Sherwood Forest)
[Hide Photo] Horseshoe Wall (above Sherwood Forest)
Taking it in from the top of the route.  Notice the brand new chains!
[Hide Photo] Taking it in from the top of the route. Notice the brand new chains!
Looking down from the top belay.  The entire route is visible below.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the top belay. The entire route is visible below.
a few more moves and we're done
[Hide Photo] a few more moves and we're done
Looking down from pitch 9
[Hide Photo] Looking down from pitch 9
Rainbow Mt from the summit of Mt Wilson
[Hide Photo] Rainbow Mt from the summit of Mt Wilson
Route and Approach Overlay
[Hide Photo] Route and Approach Overlay
looking north
[Hide Photo] looking north
Frank on P2 (crux pitch)
[Hide Photo] Frank on P2 (crux pitch)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric and Lucie
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I highly recommend this route. The approach is a bit long (exact same approach as for Resolution Arete) but the route is worth it. It is a long one, but there is zero commitment involved as the descent is down the way you climb... The route starts in a dark, narrow gully just to the right of the start of Resolution Arete. Do not get discouraged by the first pitch, which is really bad (slippery red rock covered in moss) but not too hard. The second pitch is beautiful and it is the crux of the route: thin finger crack and face moves on very steep gray rock. The rest of the route continues straight up to the top of the buttress, following intermittent cracks and plated faces. The pro is always good and a mix of trad and bolted. All belay anchors are bomber new bolts. The climbing is not too sustained (feels like a lot of 5.9ish stuff to me), but it is of course a long route... The descent is as straightforward as they come: rap straight down to your packs. A great day! Once you've done this, you'll know the apporach already so you'll want to go back up another day for Resolution Arete.

For photos and trip reports for many other classic routes at RR, check out our web site Oct 15, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Kudos to Jorge and Mike for the vision and effort required to put up this route! I thought this route was stellar and would also highly recommend it. We took a rather skeletal rack and this proved a bit scary on the long "S-crack" pitch which has no bolts at all.

The top three pitches have an amazing position as the face steepens. It is possible to see the very base of the climb from the top pitch.

We continued up Res Arete for "full value" and the contrast between the routes hit us like a sledgehammer. Although lower in grade, we were thrashing up wide cracks, through bushes and freaking out at the loose rock, not to mention the death march descent down First Creek racing the setting sun.

As a historical note, when you start the route, look for the ancient bolt off to the left (it's about 10' left and slightly up from the "real" first bolt, and has an aluminum hangar). This bolt was apparently placed by Joe Herbst in the 70's during a retreat from an early attempt on the Aeolian Wall. Apr 18, 2005
Warren Teissier
[Hide Comment] I agree with George that this is an amazing route. It felt like the first 7 pitches of Eagle Dance except 60% longer and with a lot more trad and commitment than Eagle Dance. Equal quality of rock and not a single poor quality pitch

The approach is long and a bit complex mainly in ensuring you find the correct gully. But I felt it was not as painful as other approaches (Oak creek canyon for instance). From the "pass" between Mount Wilson and the Pimple head up-hill on faint trails towards the left side of the rotten red buttress in front of you. When you reach the base of that buttress you will find a very well cairned approach to the gully. Resist the urge to go into the first gully you find, cairns show you that you should continue. When you reach the correct gully there are two large cairns at the base.

The climb up the gully has some 3-4th class scrambling that is not too bad but would get your attention on the downclimb. We found some rap slings in one spot.

The climb is not as "sporty" as we were led to believe in many of the descriptions we read. I think we used trad gear in three pitches for sure, maybe four, and a couple of them were 5.9. The S crack pitch is 100% trad and we were happy to use our #3 camalot and could have used a lot more gear. Although it is not as hard as it looks, the thing is pretty darn intimidating...

We linked the "roof pitch" with the next long 5.9 pitch. You need 16-17 draws for this. This combo is really cool and makes for one pumpy "full value" 5.9 lead.

Linking with Resolution Arete felt like the obvious thing to do. How can one come this far and not tag the summit? The descent via First Creek is arguably the worst trashing I have taken in my Red Rocks experience. According to Joanne Urioste, rapping into Oak Creek is a better option. Although my recollection of the Oak Creek thrashing is about as painful as the First creek one.

For gumbies like us it was a race against sunset. We wound up hiking out in the dark for a couple of hours but luckly, by then we were close to the mouth of the canyon. Full grade V (16 hrs car to car) if you ask me.

What an awesome experience!

Enjoy. WT Apr 19, 2005
J. Thompson
denver, co
[Hide Comment] Rope soloed the first 7 pitch's before getting stormed off. I thought the crux was alot closer to 5.10b. The first half of the route was quite good!! i'll have to go back with a better forecast. May 3, 2005
Olympia, WA
[Hide Comment] A great, fun route that just keeps pulling you up. Having descended Mt Wilson once thru First Creek Canyon we decided to forego that "pleasure" and rap the route. The rap went very smoothly (only hung the rope up once and it pulled after a bit of tugging). We did not find this climb to be as difficult as we thought it may be. We made it to the base in 90 minutes from Oak creek parking lot. Climbed it leisurely in 10 pitches, linking 9 & 10 and 11 & 12. After 10 double 60 raps (might of been able to link 3 & 2 for 9) we made it down 8 1/2 hours after we started.Grade II or maybe III if you rap. We took 16 draws, a couple extra long slings, a set of nuts and cams to a 3 camalot minus the 2 camalot and were fine. Way too much gear for all but the 'S' crack pitch which ate pro and was memorable. May 7, 2005
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Pitch 2 was stunning, and reminded me of Urioste's Black Velvet routes.

We did the first four pitches on 13 Nov, having gotten lost above the White Rot gully on the approach -- I wasn't expecting the White Rot gully (which also can involve tunneling under a chockstone) to rejoin the main gully, and didn't know to just keep following the main gully for a while longer. Once we found the monster Ponderosa pine, the rest of the approach was obvious.

There is at least one handy rap station in the White Rot gully; two short raps would make for a pretty easy descent.

There is moss on several pitches (in the middle of the Mojave desert???), but it doesn't interfere with the climbing.

With two 60m ropes, we rapped from the top of pitch two to the ground. Nov 29, 2005
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Went back and did the whole route. Very nice! The upper half involved a lot of bolted face climbing, and I think this is what Joanne Urioste had in mind when she said this route has the feel of "a giant sport climb." But there are plenty of trad sections too: our rack was a set of nuts, cams to 3 inches, and 15 runners.

It took us 12 1/2 hours, car-to-car. Apr 3, 2006
[Hide Comment] Enjoyed the heck out of Inti Wantana. It was like climbing chrimson chrysalis, but with a pitch of prince of darkness on p2, and didn't see anybody all day. dont let the approach scare you off. 'ain't bad.

the urioste supplement is a bit liberal with rope lengths. using my ropes, p5 is 95', p6 is 110'. the s-crack is long. p8 is 105'. rappelling p5 and 6 together is friendly with two 60s (but tie knots in the ends!). p4 and p3 might rappel together on 60m rope stretch, but you might be left hanging a few feet above the anchor. didn't try this one. you could link 3/4 and 5/6 on teh way up with a few yards of simul.

choice beta: take the crux when swinging leads. this lines you up for the only two plush belay ledges. (but consider extending your anchor under the roof, or risk broken head when leader pops a foothold on p10)

on 4/19/06, the first two pitches were in the shade (cold!) at 9:30am (shaded by res arete formation) and the upper pitches went into the shade by 1:00. Apr 19, 2006
[Hide Comment] I though the crux pitch was far more interesting and challenging than anything on Prince of Darkness. I usually find 5.10 pretty soft at Red Rocks but the crux on this was no gimee and much harder than any other pitch on the route. It was also very cold as it was in the shade and very windy.

I disagree about the previous poster with the approach. We got a little lost because the directions that I have seen everywhere are unnecessarily confusing. Even knowing the way now it is still very tiring with alot of loose stuff and alot of 4th class which tends to beat you up with a full pack. Plus there is no way I would want to do that descent in the dark, very good way to get hurt or worse. If you climb long routes at Red Rocks on a regular basis maybe it isn't so bad, but I would much rather do that horrible approach to Levitation than this one, although this one is a little shorter. I still can't see doing it in much less than 2 hours unless you are sprinting.

Great route and easy to rap with no real place to hangup a rope. We actually rapped the final 7 pitches in less than 45 minutes. After the first pitch(not fun) the rest of the route is great. Apr 20, 2006
Jaime Bohle
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Using a 70m rope you can link 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 8&9, and 10&11. If you want to do this (not hard at all) bring 20 draws. We topped out via. Res. Arete, and then rappel Dogma (17 total). This is a VERY bad idea. Res. was fine, but walk off. It's a lot faster. May 8, 2006
[Hide Comment] Hello All,

I'd like to combine this route with the Resolution Arete.
Can anyone tell me how you transition from Inti Watana to the RA?
How do you make the transition, and which pitch do you end up on after finishing IW?

Thanks for any info,
kyle Mar 12, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Kyle, the final anchor on Inti is just below the end of pitch 14 on RA as shown on my topo
I should probably add this info on my topo regarding where Inti comes in.

Just do a short scrambling pitch to reach the start of RA pitch 15. Or, I remember continuing and doing most of pitch 15, belaying where it says "Walk left 15m" on my topo. Mar 12, 2007
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the info, George.
The topo is great!

kyle Mar 12, 2007
Michael Layton
Sonora, CA
[Hide Comment] Possibly the best moderate long route in the park. Totally awesome climbing and exposure. Thanks for putting it up gang!

I wouldn't finish up the res. Do the res before this route cuz ytou might not want to do it after doing this one. Then you'd be sad. Apr 9, 2007
[Hide Comment] This is a fantastic route. Thanks to the FA's for the work it took to put this thing together for the rest of us to enjoy!!!

For it's grade as good as any of the Red Rocks classics. The 5.10 version of crimson, levitation or dark shadows. We climbed it on 10/28 and after much piecing together of beta here's my 2 cents.

Approach/Descent-Check there's a great overview picture and description of the approach. I would do this approach rather than the one to Levitation any day. The hike to the Wilson Pimple is flat and once you start up it's shorter with way less exposure. The traverse to the left is easy to find and there are maybe two or three 4th class bits in the White Rot gully and that's it, no more peril. You cross over into the main gully AFTER going under and then back on top of a HUGE chockstone.

KEY BETA!!! On the descent CONTINUE DOWN the main gully DON'T go back into the White Rot gully. The main gully is a MUCH better/casual descent more of the same boulder hoping. We made one short 50' repel (could be downclimded) just below the point where you come over from the White Rot gully on the approach and another (130') at the very obvious end of the gully. Both from easily accessed good trees.

The 1st pitch is now very clean and great, in no way did it detract from the route.

We took 15 draws and a single BD rack .3 thru #3 with a green and red C3 and every other nut. Neither of us are particularly bold or great climbers (inti went in good style, levitation 29 we "got up")and we both thought this to be perfect as several pitches including the S pitch are long and need gear and pitch 10 needs 13 draws.

My partner payed very close attention and here's the low down on what can be rapped together with 60m ropes no shenanigans or downcliming.

12 and 11
10 and 9
6 and 5
4 and 3
2 and 1

Maybe bring a wrench, some of the new nuts could use a turn or two.

A must do!!! Enjoy. Oct 30, 2007
[Hide Comment] Got back on this route sunday 11/11 after only getting through pitch 7 last year since we got lost on the approach which took us 4 hours last time, YIKES! It probably was also slower last year since we did the climb right after doing Epi.

Anyway this year while the approach was no walk in the park it took us 2 hours and there was no getting lost. There were 4 of us so we climb in twos with a single 70M each. I wound up linking the first two pitches for a great, long 200 foot pitch with the best climbing at the very end. I also agree that the first pitch is cleaning up a bit. While it will never be anywhere near the highlight of the route it is now much cleaning and more enjoyable. We climbed everything else as single pitch until were reached the roof/bulge at the start of pitch 9, where we linked 9/10 and then 11/12. If linking 9/10 you may want to use slings instead of draws in a few spots to cut down on the drag a bit. The 11/12 linkup was alot of fun on steep rock, but I'm not sure where the 10c was as the last pitch is much easier than the pitch 2 crux. Either way a great route where the climbing goes incredibly fast after pitch 2. We did the route in 6 hours. It took 4 of us about 1 1/2 hours to rap the route.

It was allot of fun to have 4 of us up on the wall at the same time and only took us a little longer with the rapping.

Anyone who can lead hard 5.10 on bolts and is competent with gear should have a blast on this one.

Looking for the next challenge on Mt. Wilson. Has anyone out there done either Dogma or Woman of Mountain Dreams? Nov 15, 2007
[Hide Comment] You really don't need all that much gear. The the harder pitches are all bolted. Many say that you need large cams for the S Crack pitch, but there is plenty other gear. We went light and had not problems. Single set of cams up the #1 Camalot(red) and a single set of wires should be more than enough. Even if this is pushing you limit the majority of gear pitches are not very hard and there really isn't any required gear for a particular spot. If you are solid at the grade then this an excellent climb to go light and fast on. Mar 18, 2008
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
[Hide Comment] OK. First off the route is not as good as many claim, in my opinion. It is very contrived in places, poorly bolted, anesthetically in the middle of a random wall, and just plain seems not worth the trouble.

The guidebook I have (Roxanna Brock's) gives first ascent credit to 5 different people. I think that the widely varying bolting skills, ethics, and overall visions of such a large group ruined what could have been a much better route. You find runouts between bolts on challenging terrain, but on easier sections, you can literally back-clean your draws if you want. Some pitches have bolts next to great, and obvious gear placements, while others have hardly any bolts at all. It seems like the first ascentionists couldn't decide if they were making a sport climb, or a trad I do understand the whole mixed style of many long Red Rocks routes, but this one seemed very inconsistent, confusing and really distracting. I found myself wondering what in the heck the FAs were thinking instead of enjoying the exposure and movement of the route.

Anyway, here's some facts from our ascent:

We did the route on 3/23/08. Total approach from the car to the base took us 1hr 50min. My partner and I are both reasonably fit, but I am much stronger on 3/4th class terrain. I eventually had to carry her backpack on all the steeper sections of the gully. I'm not saying this to brag, but to provide an example. Even while carrying two backpacks in 30% of the gully, I made it to the base w/in 2 hours. VERY possible.

Approach instructions: Follow the most traveled jeep road from parking area to where the road turns right and heads past Wilson's Pimple. From here, look for the best looking gully, remember which one it is, then head towards it, erring to the right. You should see cairns once you get close to the cliffs. Head up the narrow, leftmost gully (the one that looked the best from afar...) follow cairns, tunnel under a giant chockstone, and follow more cairns. You'll eventually hit a gigantic Ponderosa, head directly up a cleaner gully above the tree, tunnel through another chockstone (one it's left side) and then look on the right wall for bolts.

We got to the base at 9:20am and were a bit cold in the shade. We didn't hit any sun until the 4th pitch, but stayed in the sun until the 7th pitch or then it was definitely warm enough to climb in the shade.

You can link pitches 1&2, 8&9, and 11&12 (we had a 65m rope.) I bet you could link others, but that's what we did.

When rapping we followed "cdec's" info from above which is as follows:

"My partner payed very close attention and here's the low down on what can be rapped together with 60m ropes no shenanigans or downclimbing.

12 and 11
10 and 9
6 and 5
4 and 3
2 and 1"

I can say that 4&3 were VERY close. I had to reach down to clip my sling into the anchor so that I wouldn't rap off the end. Our rap line we brought was an 8.6mm 60m. We could have gotten another 12in or so if we had tied the rappel joining knot closer to the ends, but our tag line had a small core shot that we wanted above the knot.

We descended in the dark, which was not too bad. all in all the gully is pretty straight forward, but kinda technical in spots. You can easily pass bags to one another if needed on steeper sections. We opted to rappel the steepest section that is near the mouth of the gully. I did a Dulfersitz, which worked great, and my partner used a harness and rap device.

If it's dark, just spy Wilson's Pimple, silhouetted against the sky and head directly for it. You will hit the road eventually. Take it right, back to your car.

We took 1 each blue alien through red alien, 1 each #.5 Camelot through #3 Camelot, 6 nuts, and 18 quickdraws for linking pitches. I would suggest leaving the #3 and even the #2 behind. You can get good smaller gear on the S Crack pitch no prob.

All in all a poorly engineered route, on a ho-hum buttress, but the view of the Horseshoe wall from the top can't be beat. Mar 27, 2008
[Hide Comment] Great route. Interesting climbing on good stone the whole way, kudos to the FA team for picking the line and doing all the work. At some point it would be good to replace the slings with chain at the belays. I would not recommend applying a wrench to any of the bolts as the nuts were not loose and further mechanical action would possibly make the bolts worse. If one were to replace the slings it would be good to have a drill along in case one of the bolts is fouled, a couple of them moved in the hole a bit.

On the descent we followed what I believe is the Aeolian Gully which was more direct, but did require two rappels. This was the next gully to the west of the White Rot Gully. We left a sling on a nice solid tree at the top rappel and reinforced the sling at the lower rappel on the rather sketcky small oak. Apr 24, 2009
Reed Fee
White Salmon WA
[Hide Comment] My friend Matt and I climbed this route on the 24th of Oct. We got to the base about 45 minutes before dawn. We were a little anxious that a party of three we talked to the day before were going to get ahead of us. Needless to say we were the first of 7 people on the route that day. We blasted up to the top of Inti Watana linking all but three pitches. Reach up grab incredibly good edge or knob. Repeat! The last pitch has one gear placement before the last bolt. Wish I would have known that! We continued up Resolution Arete to the summit. We brought up to a #4 BD I wish I would have had another one for pitch 19. It's only awkward 5.8 but I was getting a little tired at this point. We descended via Oak creek. I believe we actually descended the SE fork of Oak creek. We took the gully where the sandstone meets limestone but looking back I think we should have gone over the ridge to the next one. We passed to the right of the tower with the Van shaped top and dropped steeply through brush to a 20' rap with natty slings. A little further down we encountered a 70 meter drop. There is a very old rope here with many knots in it, tied around a boulder. we left two four foot slings(red and green) around more boulders to equalize the two boulders. A SINGLE 70 METER ROPE will just get you to another anchor that consists of an old .75BD and a large nut on a small ledge. From here we rapped to the end of our rope on low angle rock. We continued down to hit the S. fork of Oak to a vertical 10' drop with a large knotted rope around a tree for getting down. Then the main fork of Oak creek where we turned our headlamps on. 16.5 hours car to car. A fantastic way to spend a full day. As we walked back around we could the see headlamps of the party of three still rapping the route! Nov 6, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] This is a fine line, we thought the crux was the 2 hour approach although pitch 2 has a few feet of thin 5.10 lie backing. I did not think there was any 5.10 past that pitch - just wonderful fast flowing 5.9. With a 60 meter rope and a good partner you can link pitches 5&6 (15 feet of simul climbing), 7&8 (25 feet of simul climbing) 9&10 (no simul) and 11&12 (no simul)making this an 8 pitch climb and knocking considerable time off your ascent. The second pitch and the upper pitches are fantastic. Jan 24, 2010
Bend, Oregon
[Hide Comment] Great route! I climbed it on Tuesday, March 2, 2010. Didn't see anyone on this route the whole week. The route was dry even though there is snow on some ledges still.

I was actually surprised to see all the anchors had tat (random slings) and rap rings on them instead of chains, Metolius Rap Hangers, or a Fixe anchor set-up. This is really annoying to me as some anchor bolts cannot be clipped directly because there is so many slings tied into the bolts. If I had known this I would have brought some chain with me to help the cause. Mar 7, 2010
Davis, CA
[Hide Comment] Climbed Inti to Resolution arete on 3/27/2010. It was a pretty cold start and then in the sun for most of the climb. We still used down jackets for belays as it was cold and windy. Inti itself is fantastic. We combined the first two pitches and this was by far the crux. I thought those 10c moves were pretty hard. The 10c pitch up high was easy(er). We also combined the last four pitches of Inti into 2, to make one long 5.9 pitch and the 5.9 combined with the 10c pitch. I'm glad we continued on Resolution just to finish it off, but the climbing was not impressive and I'd probably not do it again. The walk off was long and hellish, so my beta is probably useless. We followed cairns for a while but then lost them and found a 3rd/4th class scramble into First Creek Canyon. Then it was endless boulder hopping and scrambling down the wash in the dark. We were not super-fast, the approach took ~2 hours 15 minutes and it is pretty steep 4th class if you've never seen it. We took a rest day earlier and stashed ropes and water at the base and figured out the approach, and I think this helped a lot. The climb itself went from 7am to 5:30pm. The walk off started ok until it was really dark (~7:30pm) and then it took forever to find an acceptable way down, and ended up taking us more like 5 hours to get back to the car. Mar 30, 2010
Laurel Arndt
[Hide Comment] Climbed in March 2010, it was cold down low, but wonderful up top. worth the cold to have a longer day and good temps overall.
Saw nice big horn sheep on approach. Jan 12, 2011
roman d
Pasadena, CA
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, and certainly well worth finishing on Resolution Arete to top out. Walk off down First Creek is casual, but probably slow if you get caught in the dark. Even if rappelling, make sure to scramble up to the awesome sundeck where the two routes join! Nov 4, 2012
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
[Hide Comment] Classic Red Rocks face climbing for ~10 pitches up a sweet face. I'll just second that 4&5 link fine and to get the view of horseshoe if rapping. Try and work it to get the good belay ledges. Feb 3, 2013
Aaron Cassebeer
Tehachapi, CA
[Hide Comment] All (12) belay stations on this route have slings and aluminum rap rings. This route really could use some steel quicklinks and all slings removed. This is a good reminder to always bring a few on big routes in Red Rocks.

Handren's pitch lengths are off a bit. With a 70m rope we linked, 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 8/9, 10/11. There was rope to spare on all of these pitches.

-Aaron Apr 8, 2013
[Hide Comment] We added chains to the rappel route today. 7 double 60 meter raps gets you down from the top. Definitely tie knots for the second to last (pitches 3 and 4). Oct 3, 2013
Jared Wicks
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] First off, thanks to Wormly81 and his crew for adding the chains! Such a nice surprise to find those!

We climbed Inti yesterday and I must say, this is one of my new favs. There is not a bad pitch on the entire climb. It is very sustained and offers a little bit of everything. The quasi-gnarly approach keeps the crowds away.

A little beta:

70 meter ropes are the way to go on this one. With two 70 meter ropes you can climb AND rap the entire route in 6 pitches. 1500' in 6 pitches!

With 70's link the following and rap it the same way:
1 & 2
3 & 4
5 & 6
7 & 8
9 & 10
11 & 12

Make sure you bring 18-20 Draws if you're going to do these link-ups. A couple of the link-ups will be really close but you'll make it. By linking up this way you'll also have bomber chains at each belay. This route is not to be missed! Oct 9, 2013
[Hide Comment] I had a great time clipping a lot of bolts and pulling on mostly great holds. We linked all the pitches as suggested above by Jared with a 70 m rope. Pitch 7&8 barely made it and required some strategic run outs to keep rope drag at bay, but nothing too bad. One great benefit of linking is getting all the good belay ledges and missing some of the semi-hanging anchors.

I don't think its an exaggeration to say that 50% of the bolts were loose, but all seemed very new and solid. The pro is great. I will go quite light on the rack (emphasize smaller pieces) and bring a lot of alpine draws if I do it again. Nov 22, 2013
Nate Farr
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] The approach is very doable in under 2 hours. It took us 1.5 hours and we spent 15 or so minutes lost. We had full daylight for the approach and previous experience on the wall so I'm sure that helped.

The climb works we'll with 70m ropes. We linked per Jared's comment above and it worked well but we came up ~20 feet short on the pitch 5-6 link. The climbing here was easy so a short simul was not a problem. Perhaps my rope is not a true 70m? Even so, the rappel is more direct and would have reached easily (our 70m tag line was still clipped to the previous station). The climbing on Inti Watana was enjoyable and flowing. The second pitch is definitely the crux. Surprisingly this route seemed to be most bolt protected where the climbing was easy (and often easily protected by trad gear) and a little sporty when the climbing was relatively harder.

We continued up Resolution Arete and felt that the rack we packed for Inti Watana (Small set stoppers, single set of cams to 3.5 and 20 draws/runners) was sufficient. It took us 2.5 hours from just below the summit of Mt. Wilson to the car via First Creek which is not an enjoyable time. All in all we spent 14 hours car-to-car. Jun 2, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
[Hide Comment] Trip report for Inti Watana to Resolution Arete linkup:

joshuatreeclimbinglifeguide… Jun 4, 2014
Cape Elizabeth, Maine
[Hide Comment] Great route. We linked all the pitches except 7 and 8. I highly recommend topping out via the res arete - the climbing is pretty easy and not very interesting but the setting is amazing.

Did the route in early October. Left the car at 4:30am and got back at 7pm. We did the spring creek canyon walk off (rather than the oak creek canyon descent) and it took us 3 hours. Oct 30, 2014
[Hide Comment] Awesome route!

As of Nov 22 2014, there is a very sketchy bolt right at the crux move (on p2) (you can pull it out an inch by hand)

If you're going to the top, I'd follow notmyname's descent beta in the comments for Mt Wilson - worked perfectly! Stay skier's left of the van-sized balanced rock, down an unpromising-looking gulley. Nov 28, 2014
Las Vegas, Nevada
[Hide Comment] I'm hesitant to share this, as it might drop the commitment level of those choosing to commit to the Rez link-up and bring only one rope. You CAN rap all 12 pitches of Inti with a single 70 and no shenanigans. I've done it. For whatever reason, even accounting for the very moderate wondering of a few pitches, many of Handren's pitch lengths are WAY OFF. I would suggest you make sure your rope is a true 70, but even there, I'm not totally certain how long our rope was beyond to say they it was an older, uncut Mammut 70.

I climbed this rig twice recently, both times looking to link with Resolution ArĂȘte to the summit. We cruised the first 12 pitches in 4 hours on 70 halves linking 1/2, 3/4. 5/6, 8/9, & 11/12. Making the decision to not epic with the short days and with a memory of the beginning of the descent off the summit as confusing, we decided to rap at 1:30 and promised ourselves an earlier start next time.

Climbed it again, but we were slower and made the same choice even though we had only a single 70, opting for shenanigans on the rap rather than an epic on the descent. We favored one side of the rope as I rapped many of the longer pitches first on my Grigri on a single line. The longest pitches don't have many or any bolts to bail from, but every time I got off the rope and we centered it in the chains, both ends reached the anchor without issue.

Also, I was expecting something heinous for the approach with a vague memory of the same from when I climbed it back in the spring. Anything but, really. The approach is shorter and less confusing than for the Eagle Wall, about as strenuous and long as for Cloud Tower, Crimson, etc. The second half of the approach is somewhat strenuous with a lot of 4th class, but we didn't find it confusing as long as you get the first part of the second half right.

When you come up on the saddle between the Wilson Pimple and Wilson, the dirt turns a noticeable deep red. With the Pimple to your right, about 100m after you start descending the saddle on the main trail, there is a large campground area on your left. This is where you turn left and start heading up. The campground doesn't look that old or super-developed, but it is noticeable--stone fire rings, cleared ground, etc. Go out the back of the campground and head up the hill toward Wilson. There are cairns starting here. You're aiming for the left side of the white pile of stone/hill in front of you. The trail hits the left side of this white pile at a red cliff band that becomes obfuscated from the campground. Traverse left directly below this cliff band. Then follow the cairns trail up staying just out of the big gully that is on your left. Keep an eye on the biggest pine tree you can see and when you eventually hit it, there is a a deep recess/gully that heads a few hundred yards up and left. The start of Inti is visible on the right wall of this gully/recess, although you have to get closer to see the bolts. Look for the traveled "ramp" through the mossy slab of the first pitch.

Phenomenal route. Per one person above, this route feels a lot like Eagle Dance only a lot longer and in a remote area. This route is classic. Took a ride on p11 when a hold broke, but that is uncharacteristic of the route. The pro, hardware and rock is all very solid. The S-crack pitch eats any and all gear you have. We found that the route as a whole loves the green alien, .3 BD, blue Metolius size pieces. I'd take a couple extra in that size for the route as a whole.

The last time I led a gnarly, super-exposed 5.6ish? traverse looking for Resolution ArĂȘte before we turned around. Need beta for finding the Rez link-up. We got confused I reckon. Dec 16, 2014
[Hide Comment] That's a pretty great post, lots of useful info. Check out George Bell's link above for Res beta. Hope that helps. Dec 17, 2014
Las Vegas, Nevada
[Hide Comment] @stonenude

Got the link-up! Even in hindsight, it was not straightforward. Thank you for pointing us toward tried beta. Feb 20, 2015
[Hide Comment] Really cool, man. Thanks for all the positive contributions. Feb 21, 2015
Josh Borof
Telluride Co
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route the other day an found it to be an excellent outing. really entertaining climbing in a beautiful setting. All the cruxes were well protected and short. Mostly this this is a great 5.9 climb with bits harder. I found the most difficult lead to be the 5.9 chimney on the Resolution. Bring a #4 camalot for this pitch if continuing on past Inti.

We found the Approach description to be accurate, looking for cairns at the "high point of land between Wilson Pimple and Mt Wilson where the earth turns red." Sure enough it went smooth and we made the approach in 1.75 hrs. (first route all week that we didn't screw it up). We did lose the trail for a bit on the descent off the ridge at the limestone. Not sure what we were supposed to do but we found our way once in the gully.

All told we approached of 1.75 hrs. Climbed to the summit in 6 hrs and descended for 3 hrs.

Also; To the party who left a beer in the summit register on 3/8/15. You didn't leave your name, but that was the best beer I've had in a while. You da man!! I'll buy you one next time friend. Cheers! Mar 14, 2015
[Hide Comment] Be warned! We did it yesterday with a single 80m rope and it was way too short for rapping pitch No. 7. We had to put in slings to reach belay No.7.
No way ever with a single 70m rope!

AND: It is still one of the best routes in RR, even doing it the second time! May 13, 2015
leeds, ut
[Hide Comment] For anyone doing the Resolution Arete link-up I added some beta pics on the Mt Wilson page for the Oak Creek descent, minimal thrashing and no more than 1 rap required. May 18, 2015
[Hide Comment] Because I'm dumb, I rapped this with a 70m rope. There's only one pitch where the rope ends about four feet above the anchors. I was able to clip a sling to the chains, untie and downclimb the slab to the belay ledge; my partner did the same. It was an easy downclimb, but I'd never intentionally put myself in that situation. If you're comfortable with downclimbing unroped to a ledge, 70m is no problem.

The climb itself is enjoyable, but I agree with those that describe it as rather banal. There's nothing about the line that makes it memorable aside from the situation. May 25, 2015
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Wonderful route, but the opening 5.9 slab is not easy, and the first bolt didn't look very trust-inspiring (May 2015). Oct 6, 2015
Japhy Dhungana
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] 9:30 car to car - RAD route! Fumbled the approach a bit, but overall the route flows very well, 70m rope is the way to go. Linked every pitch as a double pitch and its pretty casual. Go with a slim rack with small cams (under .75), and if you're ok running it out a bit on <5.8 terrain, its casual. Apr 1, 2016
[Hide Comment] Climbed this in late march 2015. Started hiking at 5:30a. The approach took about 2.5 hours with a little struggling to find the trail up from the Pimple in the dark. As mentioned above, the gully involves lots of 3rd and 4th class and a few places where a stumble would be bad news. We started climbing around 8am, and had the route to ourselves all day.
We did the route in 12 pitches at a leisurely, but efficient pace with double 60m ropes. Took a rack to #3 camalot and a bunch of draws. In hindsight, I would leave the #2 & 3 cams at home, take more draws, and link some pitches, especially if comfortable climbing above gear on Red Rocks 5.8. We linked a number of pitches (not sure which ones) on rappel and arrived back at our packs around 5pm.
There are two nice rest ledges on the route, but otherwise the belays are hanging or semi-hanging. Wear comfortable/stiff shoes. There's lots of edging on this one. Your feet will thank you. Also, plan on a mix of sun and shade, but mostly shade.
Overall the whole day took us about 14 hours with a few 20-30 minute rests. This route would be a great intro for those looking to break into longer routes of the grade as the commitment level is low, and most of the climbing is in the 5.8-10a range. Apr 7, 2016
[Hide Comment] Climbed the route yesterday, and in all honesty it's bit overrated in difficulties and quality. Besides a couple short sections it's not any harder then Crimson Chrysalis (CC is much more esthetic). If La Cierta Edad or Nightcrawler are also 10c, second pitch should be rated about 10a/b at the most. P3-6 felt more like 5.6-7 range, also S-shape crack (if you climb it as face climb and actually stay away from a crack) was more like 5.7/8 range. Last 3 pitches were by far the best, both in quality and the position.
With 70m ropes, we did 1st rap as single, then combined p10 and 11, then did single rope raps to top of pitch 4. From here 70m and 60m gets you down. Doing shorter raps in mid section also rapping top pitch short will ensure you don't have rope hanging on some flakes.
We managed 12 hours 15 minutes car to car, at pretty casual pace. As far as gear goes, the route can be climbed with a single rack up to 2.5" (golden Camalot), blue #3 Camalot is overkill, and you absolutely don't have to run anything out with this rack. If something trade 3" cam for a couple of 0.4 and 0.5" extra cams.
No crowds- we have not seen a single person all day long.
Over all a pretty decent outing , with good final position in uncrowded location. Just make sure both rock quality and difficulties are below what descriptions give you.
P.S. Even after rebolting, a lot of bolts are already rusty- one more reason to use SS bolts and not skimp on cheap hardware. Oct 27, 2016
[Hide Comment] We climbed into this first day of December, 2016. It was very cold and I wore gloves while clinbong P3-8. We climbed on a 70 and linked 1/2 3/4 5/6 7/8 9/10 11/12 with <5 feet simuling for 7/8 to skip the hanging belay (plush ledges)
We had singles 0.4-1 and it was great. 9/10 was the money pitch. Crux is 5.10b of you are 5'10 or taller and probably 11a for me as I had to get high feet and use a shit hold to reach the sinker finger lock. I give inti 2 stars but 3 if you link it into res Arete to summit. Dec 1, 2016
carla splitter
San Jose, CA
[Hide Comment] Way fun. A .4 is useful on the second pitch. Mar 13, 2017
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] A fantastic climb up a beautiful wall- well worth the hike up.

A couple of notes.

1) 70m, single rack to a red camalot, and 20 draws gets you up the route in 6 pitches. Link everything, it's awesome!

2) A 60m will let you link 1/2, 5/6, 9/10, and 11/12.

3) If you bring a 60m tag line, you can't link the 7/8 rappel, and the rappel to the top of 2 is extremely close. If you slide the knot down 6', though, you're golden.

4) Despite the books description, there are no bolts on pitch 5.

Pitch ratings:
1- 5.9
2- 5.10b
3- 5.8
4- 5.8
5- 5.7
6- 5.6
7- 5.8
8- 5.8
9- 5.9
10- 5.9
11- 5.8
12- 5.10b Apr 14, 2017
[Hide Comment] Except for pitch #7, all rappels can be done with a single 70m. We rapped with a single 70, and did a single strand rappel for the 7th pitch, using our cordallettes and a couple sling as a pull rope(this pitch is about 40 feet too long being able to do it with a single 70). Was happy to not have to carry two ropes the whole way up(and approach) just for this. Apr 27, 2017
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] HOWDY! Lost a blue northface jacket and purgatory water bottle on the approach to blood wall. We were actually returning and quite bit and I had not noticed my pack unclipped and dropped these items. :) they are crucial pieces of my big wall gear and I would love to get them back. if you find them, please message me on here and I will pay you to ship them back. I will toss you some bones as well. Climb on!

THIS IS A REPOST FROM A WHILE BACK. I have not heard anything and am trying various other pages. PLEASE let me know if found! Thanks! Mitch Aug 12, 2017
North Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] 100% raps cleanly with an 80m rope and no shenanigans. Nov 14, 2017
James Huang
Ford Econoline
[Hide Comment] Inti-RA

Approach: 1:40, no mistakes, did not rush. Used info gathered from MP.

Climb: 3hr to top of Inti. 2hr more to top of Wilson. Linked every pitch.

Descent: 3hr from summit to car. I did the most research for Oak Creek descent and still was confused at the summit. After doing it, it really doesn't seem like the descriptions needed to be so complicated. From the summit, located the very back of Oak Creek canyon, past Levi29. Walk to there, it's basically the last gully. You'll be walking for about a half hour before you hit the gully you go down. Maybe 45 minutes. We kept thinking we missed it, but really, it'll be the last gully and also the first gully that seems doable to walk down. Mar 5, 2018
Steph Abegg
Bellingham, WA
[Hide Comment] Rappel beta: rappel the route with 2 ropes. We did this in 1.5 hours and 8 rappels, as follows:
Link Pitches 12-11
Link Pitches 10-9
Rap Pitches 8, 7, 6 individually
Link Pitches 5-4
Link Pitches 3-2
Rap Pitch 1 on single rope

Pitch by pitch gear beta:
Pitch 1: ~7 bolts, no gear
Pitch 2: ~10 bolts, no gear but you can place a 0.5 cam if you want
Pitch 3: ~12 bolts, no gear
Pitch 4: ~12 bolts, no gear
Pitch 5: all gear
Pitch 6: small gear + a few bolts
Pitch 7: all gear
Pitch 8: gear + a few bolts
Pitch 9: ~5 bolts, no gear
Pitch 10: ~12 bolts, no gear
Pitch 11: ~5 bolts, no gear
Pitch 12: ~7 bolts + a few offset nuts to supplement Mar 29, 2018
[Hide Comment] October 2018
Summited Wilson via Inti Watana into Resolution Arete. 15 hours car-to-car.

Pre-scouted the approach (recommended if hiking in the dark) and was at the base of the climb sub-2hrs.
Linked many pitches easily with 70m rope.
First crux 10+ was harder than expected.

Resolution Arete topout was less straightforward than topos made it seem - short 5.8 OW section involved brittle, loose, and sandy rock with poor pro - very committing.
Descended via First Creek as we were unable to satisfyingly locate the Oak Creek descent trail and were losing light. Oct 25, 2018
George Luebkeman
Mill Valley, CA
[Hide Comment] Definitely a full value route with interesting climbing, but by golly don't do it in the winter. We approached at 8am Jan 2, 2018 and reached the climb at 10am. 2 hour approach beta == correct even with a party of 3+2. What we didn't think about was that the rock on the first 2 pitches literally NEVER sees the sun. It's just been cooling all winter, and on that day it was %#*$^#! cold. After 2 minutes on the rock, the tips were numb. After the first pitch, my whole hand lost feeling. As I belayed my partner up, my hands regained feeling, but I wish they didn't. They stung like I stuck them in the butt of a hornets nest. We continued up to the top of P5, at which point the wind chill combined with cold rock made the temperatures too cold to endure. We rappelled down and began the descent. We took the main drainage gully to the right, instead of the auxiliary gully for the approach. Two clean rappells plopped us right down in a creek bed we followed until we passed the Wilson Pimple to our left, and then cut left to the road. Took no more than an hour for the descent, and about 8 hours C2C. Will absolutely go for it again in milder weather! Jan 3, 2019
Collin Wolf
Blacksburg, VA
[Hide Comment] Per Steph's pitch-by-pitch gear beta, I found it accurate with the exception of Pitch 4, which has 3 bolts and then finger sized gear on easy terrain to the anchors. I led this expected to find many bolts like the previous pitch, and was surprised after pulling the small bulge to find no more! Thankfully I had a rack in the .2-1 range! We brought about 16 alpine draws/quickdraws, along with a rack of doubles .3-2, with 1 each of 3 and 4. This was plenty, might want more draws if you want to make some links (which is easily done and super fun).

Took about 14.5 hours car-car, with probably an hour lost to stuck ropes on rappels. Killer route! Approach/descent was strenuous but not difficult to find, even without pre-scouting. About 2 hours. Mar 20, 2019
[Hide Comment] Amazing route, gorgeous position and exposure, and you'll have the wall to yourself. The climbing is very well protected, no need for anything bigger than a red C4, and no need for crack technique on the crack pitches. I'd bring a nut or two for the crux 2nd pitch to protect moves between bolts if you're not totally comfortable on 10+ smeary face climbing, and the top "crux" pitch is more like 5.9 with plenty of bolts. 6-7 hrs to climb the route at a human pace, 1.5 hrs to rap it, and the approach/descent are not too complex. Go do it! Apr 2, 2019
adrian korosec
[Hide Comment] I'm hoping to clarify if it is possible to rap this route with a single 80 meter rope. Seems like P7 at 165' would be a show stopper. May 7, 2019