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Routes in Lower Level - Left

Bon Ez S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bonaire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CEL, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crude Boys S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crude Control S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.10d (AKA Black Corridor Route 5) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown 5.11a (AKA Black Corridor Route 4) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.9 (AKA L2) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.9 (AKA L3) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Vagabonds S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990
Page Views: 2,413 total · 13/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The climb just right of Bonaire/Bon Ez. I seem to recall it being pretty contrived, with the crux down low on steep, thin rock.

Protection

A few bolts to a lower-off.

Photos

Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
  5.11b/c
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
  5.11b/c
If you go left after clipping the second bolt, it's more like 10b/c, if you stay on the line and go straight up, feels like 11b/c Dec 12, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
On 3/15/11, the ASCA replaced all 6 protection bolts and the anchors on this route. The 6 protection bolts are 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece, the anchors are 1/2" x 4.75" SS 5-piece, the anchors are equipped with double ring rap hangers. Mar 15, 2011
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
just go 2 feet to the left of the 2nd bolt and call this route 9+. it's pretty contrived otherwise. Sep 10, 2011
I've climbed this route a couple ways now after watching a friend pull the crux section differently. At the second bolt, you can go straight up (about 2-3 left of the bolt) and it's probably 10b or you can move right to a diagonal and then make a big move up and left across the bolt, which could be more like 11a. I think either is acceptable and not at all contrived since the bolt is still within reach. The first time I sent this, I just thought the left alternative was too long of a reach. I was wrong. Apr 26, 2014
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
 
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
 
Agree that it's pretty contrived at 10d/11a. Step a couple feet left and it goes at 5.9 Oct 13, 2014
Interesting route. Some notes about the 2nd bolt section---there are three ways (and three grades..) to get past this:

1) Move left a couple of feet. Probably goes at 10- for the route.
2) Use two distinct holds on the rail up and right, and make a big move to the jug. Probably goes at solid 10d.
3) The most difficult way is left hand on tiny crimp on horizontal, right hand on rail. Get a smeary right foot, and a high and far left foot. Massive lock-off on right hand, reach up to slopey intermediate, get feet up, and grab the jug. This probably goes at 11+

Of course, the last two sequences are contrived, as the left variation (1) is easily within reach of the bolt.

All in all, sort of height dependent, but fun regardless. Cool route. Apr 7, 2015

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