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5.5, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 252 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 07-Willow Spring > Ragged Edges Area
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


30 feet left of Ragged Edges is an obvious finger crack on a low angle face. It is just to the right of a large arch that curves to the right. Foot smears at the start turns into foot jams in the crack. About half way up move out of the crack to the right on the face to jugs at the top. It gets easier as you go. Two stars because decent 5.5's are hard to come by at RR.


Small to medium pro. Well protected. Slung tree at the top to rap down on a single.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leisha having fun on her first trad lead. <br>
(Taken 9/15/07)
[Hide Photo] Leisha having fun on her first trad lead. (Taken 9/15/07)
Willow Spring Overview
[Hide Photo] Willow Spring Overview
dirty son of a cinch LEADING TONTO
[Hide Photo] dirty son of a cinch LEADING TONTO
[Hide Photo] Tonto
Sheri having fun on Tonto!!
[Hide Photo] Sheri having fun on Tonto!!
Jasmine on rock for the first time
[Hide Photo] Jasmine on rock for the first time
Zane starting up Tonto with an inordinate amount of pro.
[Hide Photo] Zane starting up Tonto with an inordinate amount of pro.
Leisha having a blast placing gear, and cruisin up her first trad lead.<br>
(Taken 9/15/07)
[Hide Photo] Leisha having a blast placing gear, and cruisin up her first trad lead. (Taken 9/15/07)
You can face climb OR jam the crack for extra fun and/or practice; Great climb!!
[Hide Photo] You can face climb OR jam the crack for extra fun and/or practice; Great climb!!
Brent Davis at the top of Tonto. his second day on real rock and cruising!
[Hide Photo] Brent Davis at the top of Tonto. his second day on real rock and cruising!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Pretty fun route for a beginning trad leader. No bolts at the top, belay from a tree. If there are slings and rings, you can rap off with a 60 meter rope with about a foot left to spare. (Have you measured your rope?) A fun variation is to continue up the crack instead of heading right halfway up. Then, pull a fun overhangy section and that gets you to the top (5.7). Jun 13, 2004
[Hide Comment] Rumor has it that someone yanked the rap station on top of Tonto- forcing a walk off. If I get out there sometime soon, I'll take some webbing and replace it, but if anyone beats me to it, we'd all appreciate it... Apr 13, 2005
rex parker
las vegas n.v
[Hide Comment] i went up their in june and left two new webbing rap anchors and two new omega pacific rap rings around the tree, good route you can barely rappel with one 60 meter rope, screw ropes this thing is pretty solid go solo that bitch! Sep 7, 2006
Rob "Roberto" Dowse
Toronto ON
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on Saturday 9/9/06 and there were no rap rings or slings on the tree...The walk off is pretty easy though. Sep 11, 2006
[Hide Comment] I free soloed this back in 1980, thinking that it might be a first ascent. It was a fun, easy solo. Sep 23, 2006
Salt Lake City, Utah
[Hide Comment] Super fun and positive; takes great gear! Make sure your rope is the FULL 60 meters if rappeling; it only makes it with rope stretch. Don't miss this route!! The rappel is really fun by the way... Apr 9, 2007
[Hide Comment] Climbed this a while back but I remember the gear being absent on the slab traverse. Also, longer runners helpful for the last piece before the slab traverse and after it to reduce drag. Dont be a dummy like me and climb all the way under the roof thinking that was the route ;-) (climbed before the online topo was available) May 13, 2008
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
[Hide Comment] I led this route on Sunday, beautiful day for it. Much more aesthetic than my first lead on it (I went up through the chimney, ugh!). Good opportunities to use old fashioned hexes on this route. Check the black marks on the ledge below the station. Your rappel rope should run to the right of the two knobs on the boulder. If you keep the rope there, you will have just enough with the stretch to reach the ground.

There is a significant drop off at the flake. I recommend a prusik to slow your descent over that section. Nice climb! Oct 9, 2008
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
[Hide Comment] Led up this yesterday. Two slings and a rap ring were at the top just above Kemosabe. Fun climb that takes nuts or cams. Keep and eye out for rope drag at the overhanging finish. I backtracked and placed a long runner on my last piece to reduce the drag for the belay. Rap off or walk off to the right (past Ragged Edges) Apr 13, 2009
Tyson Anderson
[Hide Comment] Nice, easy trad lead. Placed up to a #3 camalot but it probably wasn't necessary to go that big. May 15, 2009
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
[Hide Comment] Fun crack and face climbing. Wouldn't really say its "well" protected up top, although easy climbing. I had horrible rope drag, so watch your rope when you go over or around the roof up top. As of 4/25/10 there were 3 slings and a rap ring on the tree. Apr 30, 2010
[Hide Comment] great route for beginning trad. loved the straight up variation through the overhang. easily protected w/ small cams & nuts and #3 or #4 for variation. my first free solo route. have added additional webbing and OP wrap ring. hope they stay. Mar 29, 2011
[Hide Comment] Did this with some friends today. It was my first free solo too back in 99' We did the 5.7 Variation with was great fun with a small (one move) chimney section. Thanks for the slings and rings Shannon. Mar 31, 2011
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.5 PG13
[Hide Comment] Great fun. Good beginner lead. Focus is on pro rather than difficult climbing. First 25 feet was delicate, slightly more difficult than the upper section. Start with a few smears on smooth dishes. Then jugs and positive holds all the way through traverse and the slight overhang to topout. I threw in a few nuts, a #1 Metolius mastercam, then doubles of .5, .75, and 1 BD C4. Bring couple slings when it wanders. slings and two rap rings on tree for 60 rap. Just over 100 ft. Feb 20, 2012
dirty son of a cinch
las vegas, nv
[Hide Comment] MY THIRD LEAD TRAD LEAD... 5.5 SOLID--GOOD MOVES WITH A TREE AND FOUR SLINGS ON IT. i felt that protection was slight scarce in the middle but the climbing was gravy... Feb 21, 2012
Tom Lausch
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] Good climb for beginner leader. No need for anything bigger than a #3. Two slings and rings on the rap tree. Bring your own those two are getting tatty. Apr 29, 2013
[Hide Comment] Great beginner route! The entire climb can be easily done with passive gear. Oct 1, 2013
Tony Whitney
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] This is a classic route at RR. It is a great way to learn trad. It is well protected and teaches how to use longer slings to help with rope drag. As of May 26th, the slings around the tree are good. Beware of the rappel, there is quite the overhang on the way down. May 27, 2014
[Hide Comment] As of March 20, 2016, no slung tree at the top for rappel. We walked looker's left to the gully looker's right of Crooked Crack to descend from a slung small tree/big bush on a single 60 m. Mar 25, 2016
Adam Leslie
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Climbed this weekend and the tree at the top is slung and has to rap rings. Nov 20, 2016
Matthew Lee
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Great beginner lead and as of 12/10/17 the tree at the top is slung with rap rings. Dec 12, 2017
D. M. Cole
Northern Utah
[Hide Comment] Nothing too call home about, but a fine warm-up (e.g., for Ragged Edges) with morning sun. As for March 2018, the tree is still slung with a couple of thin rap rings. If top-roping, consider extending your anchor past the lip. It's a reach, but doing so will (a) reduce rope wear and (b) avoid contributing to the deepening grooves from rope rubbing sandstone. If rappelling, drop directly under the roof—it is less scary than it might look and safer than traversing to climber's left, which only adds rightward swing to the inevitable drop. Mar 9, 2018
Chris C
San Francisco, CA
[Hide Comment] the slung tree rappel anchor is being used for top rope and a deep rope groove has been cut into the rock. if you plan to top rope this route, please extend your anchor so you don't continue to damage the rock. Oct 17, 2018