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Red Zinger

5.10+, Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.7 from 68 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 12-Oak Creek Ca… > Friar & Byrd Pinnacle
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

An Indian Creek style crack climb which would probably get three stars if it were longer or didn't have a big ledge in the middle.

The climb follows a left facing corner in a west facing alcove about five minutes walk east of Solar Slab gully.

P1: 75', 5.10. Mostly fun, 5.9 jamming and laybacking with a technical stem/reach at 3/4 height. This pitch has several stances/rests and ends at a rap station on a big ledge.

P2: 35', 5.10+. Though Swain rates these two pitches the same, P2 is harder, particularly to lead. The crux is quite reminiscent of The Wave on Supercrack Buttress at Indian Creek -- laybacking around a bulge; have a 1.5 Friend size piece ready to go. After about 35' the crack ends at a large roof where there is a rap station. Two short raps to descend. A single 60m rope might just make it from the second anchor to the ground. If you don't do the continuation described below, the leader will be a lot more comfortable if he/she lowers from the end of the 2nd pitch and belays from the first rap station.

It is possible to continue from the second anchor by slab traversing left about 15' and joining the crack system to left which has its own anchors and which Swain rumors to be 5.9 but looks harder. This continuation would add about 50' of climbing and provides an interesting contrast in styles --an abrupt transition from power laybacking to tenuous slabbing -- but is somewhat tricky to protect for the 2nd on without a big piece (~4.5 Camalot). The crux of the traverse is at the start, so the leader is protected adequately. Once the traverse is over, the crack above, which we did not climb, appears to require wide hand pieces, maybe 3 and 3.5 Camalots.

The climber in photo 1 is starting the P1 crux.

Protection

Double set of cams from thin fingers to hands with perhaps a couple of extra in the rattly fingers / thin hands range. A couple of small to medium nuts come in handy on P1.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown climber whipping off in Red Zinger's shadow on a cold day.<br>
<br>
November 2011
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber whipping off in Red Zinger's shadow on a cold day. November 2011
Weston L leading the "crux" on P2
[Hide Photo] Weston L leading the "crux" on P2
Red Zinger
[Hide Photo] Red Zinger
Climbers at 1st belay ledge of Red Zinger. Shot from Beulah's Book. 4/9/2011
[Hide Photo] Climbers at 1st belay ledge of Red Zinger. Shot from Beulah's Book. 4/9/2011
Jon following P1
[Hide Photo] Jon following P1
Red Zinger.  18 Jan 2015.
[Hide Photo] Red Zinger. 18 Jan 2015.
Red Zinger corner
[Hide Photo] Red Zinger corner
Climbers on 1st pitch of Red Zinger. Shot from Beulah's Book. 4/09/2011.
[Hide Photo] Climbers on 1st pitch of Red Zinger. Shot from Beulah's Book. 4/09/2011.
good rests
[Hide Photo] good rests
The crux!
[Hide Photo] The crux!
Just befor the "hard" moves on p1
[Hide Photo] Just befor the "hard" moves on p1
Burt (Jamcrack) just above the crux on P1
[Hide Photo] Burt (Jamcrack) just above the crux on P1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Really unique route at RR. If you like Indian Creek, you'll like this one. I'd recommend 3 each of purple and green Camalots (0.5 and 0.75). I found the first pitch really fun; I found the crux on the second pitch really hard, even for 5.10+...BTW, we have beta about several RR routes and loads of US and Canadian classics on our site:ericandlucie.com. Apr 17, 2004
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] SUPERB. one of the best single pitch crack routes in Red Rocks.
Crux maybe the bulge after first anchor. Jan 26, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] A great "bonus" pitch after climbing a long route on Solar Slab. Dec 31, 2006
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] really great route with varied movement and great pro. stout, though- especially the second pitch. i'd say the first pitch is height dependent at the crux- the shorter you are, the tougher you have to be! Mar 12, 2007
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Stems, liebacks and jams on P1 and a powerful but short .10d crux lieback on P2.

Great route and a lot of good rests, I just wish it was longer. Nov 30, 2009
[Hide Comment] I remember thinking that the second pitch crux bulge would protect better with non-BD sizes. The green was too big or too small, I forget. Might be smart to mix up brands on this one a bit. Agree that the P1 crux felt stretchy, definitely some in-your-face climbing, way fun. Nov 2, 2011
slim

  5.10d
[Hide Comment] i thought i remember the bulge being #2 friend, but it has been a really long time since i did it. Nov 2, 2011
[Hide Comment] Pitch one seemed more like low 5.10 with a mid to hard 5.10 crux there are a couple good rests tho. Pitch two was burly for me but protects really well. Crux gear beta. .75 seemed small and 1 camalot seemed to big. The crack flares a little behind I had a 1 go in easily from good position that ended up getting stuck...came back next day to retrieve it. Single rack with doubles .5-2 is nice don't forget the small gear tho..you'll thank me for that. Dec 23, 2013
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Pretty damn good! Hollow but seemingly solid features to start with, although that definitely was a surprise to me. Webbing at both rappel stations in good shape as of 1/26/14.

RE the crux...first pitch felt harder for me, but I'm also short...and have a rather low IQ, so YMMV. Jan 26, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
 
[Hide Comment] able to rap with a 70 from the P2 rap slings under the large roof all the way down to the base (bypassing the rap anchor atop P1), with about 5 ft to spare on each strand Jan 19, 2015
josh holcomb
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] I thought the first pitch crux was more difficult. Couldn't imagine doing the second pitch without #2 friends and red metolius cams. Be sure to have some finger sized cams after the bulge or you will be running it out to the chains. Mar 29, 2015
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] A #1 slid in nicely just before the buldge and I used 0.75s through the buldge, loose but not overly baggy. BD sizes are fine. Jan 1, 2017
Tagg C
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] This really is best done in a single pitch. Definitely makes it feel like 10+ as one pitch. Great movement on a clean aesthetic line! A must do if you are in the area Jan 23, 2019