PRINT: Rock Climb Pain in the Neck, Red Rocks

Pain in the Neck

5.10c R, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 183 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Second Pullout… > Sweet Pain Wall

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This route may have been named for the difficulty in getting to and clipping the first two bolts.

Near the far right end of the Sweet Pain wall there is a big rounded bowl inset into the wall.

Climb up and into the bowl of rock, clipping one bolt. Reportedly this route can be done at 5.10a by moving right, up and then back left to the second bolt, but this seemed broken-up and less of a natural line to me. As well, I watched a 5'2" partner try to pink-point the route this way, and she was unable to get to a good stance to clip the second bolt this way, eventually electing to pass the crux, then clip it below.

Climbing up and left for the first few bolts felt like insecure 5.10c, but was a better and probably safer line. Climb past 3 more bolts on easier terrain to the fixed anchor on top of the route.

This is not a good line to push your limits on.

Protection

A set of draws for the bolts. Shorter climbers will find the climb awkward and clips difficult for the grade expressed here. Blowing the second clip would result in a ground fall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Michelle Moffat pink points 'Pain In The Neck' (5.10) on Sweet Pain Wall. Photo by Chris Parks, 2003(?)

April having fun on the jugs. Photo by Matt 2021

The right-hand variation, nice moves on good holds.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Bradberry
Golden, CO

5.10c/d PG13

Scaaaary second clip.. I blew it on my onsite attempt and hit the ground, but if you can cruise through those opening moves look for a good hold near the 2nd bolt to make your clip. May 19, 2010

J tot
Tempe, AZ

5.10+

This is one of those routes where it seems that somebody decided to average the difficulty of all the moves, rather than rate it for it's single hardest section. That being said, unless you are to level where you can crush any 5.10, stick clip this one. It's not worth it. Jul 21, 2010

B Roth
American Fork

5.11a R

I'm just not seeing the 10a on this route. The first couple bolts require balance and good sloper work. I felt the opening moves on this one were more difficult than anything on glitter gulch. Mar 18, 2012

Ben May
San Diego, CA

I have to bump up the stars here... because it is fun. I do have one question tho. Does the route go strait up the small crimps to the laft the of the giant hueco or is it an option to go right and opt for the monster holds then secure that second bolt? Oct 30, 2012

Ray Davalos
Las Vegas, NV

5.10a PG13

a little spooky as the book says, but the moves to the second clip are super fun. I think the 10c variation up the middle is scarier, the moves being much less secure. Mar 12, 2013

Jesse Kenyon
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10a/b R

Absolutely worth doing. Very fun moves, stout, and technical. Felt WAY better after clipping the 2nd bolt. Feb 18, 2014

Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca

5.10+ PG13

You will deck if you miss second clip. Fun climb if you weren't worrying about decking 20 ft at the crux. Apr 3, 2014

Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO

Not a good warmup as there is serious deck potential between bolt one and two. Nov 12, 2014

Frank Stein
Picayune, MS

5.10d

I do not think that you would deck if you blew the second bolt, at least not with a good belay. Still, it probably is not the best warm-up as the start is pretty stiff, crimpy and sharp for the grade. The route is decent and fun however. Nov 28, 2016

Greg Kommel
Ridgecrest, CA

5.11a PG13

Felt like 10d/11a up through the first and second bolts. After that, it was easy jugs to the top. Glitter Gulch (11a) was a walk in the park compared to this route. Apr 23, 2019

Robert Freehill

5.11a/b R

Thin, technical, and balancy route. It suited my style and I really enjoyed it. I stick clipped the second bolt and am glad I did--my feet cut just under the second bolt on my onsight attempt. Got the redpoint next go. I agree with the B. Roth and Greg Kommel, through the first three bolts this route felt much harder than Glitter Gulch. My crew and I left two BD wire gate quick draws at the anchors. Merry Christmas to the finder. Dec 16, 2020

Roger Li

5.11c PG13

Staying straight on the line was super technical, small, sharp crimps. Felt like 11c climbing for the first 2 bolts. And then 5.9 for the rest. Mar 20, 2021

Andy Cao
Las Vegas, NV

If you're looking for a mid-10 warmup for the popular 11's here, this route is not it! As others have mentioned, the first two bolts are engaging -- super thin crimps and delicate movement off tiny edges. It feels a lot more like technical 5.11 face climbing than a cruiser warmup. That being said, I would disagree with the R rating -- this route is super safe, even if you only clip the first bolt. Just make sure you don't blow the clip when clipping that 2nd... May 31, 2022

Mike Farthing
Acadia, ME

Super fun route, hard through first two clips. not sure about R rating just because of the moves to the first few bolts. In my opinion you don't want to fall on any climb within the first two bolts. Had I not known it was R rated I probably would have just climbed it like any other sport route and not been a scaredy cat committing to the moves! Mar 23, 2025