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Routes in Magic Bus

Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ken Queasy T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queasy Sunrise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zipperhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: P. VanBetten, N. Nordblom, '88
Page Views: 1,299 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 21, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

To find this route first locate Neon Sunset, as described on this site.

From Neon Sunset, walk 3 meters right to a set of thin cracks tending up and right. At the end of the first crack, step right join a second crack system and eventually to a bolt. Continue climbing until the difficulty eases and then choose to go up and left the anchors of Neon Sunset, or up and right to the anchors on Technicolor Sunrise.

Protection

A light rack of small gear and a few draws for the bolt and fixed anchors up top. The route name probably refers to pulling some of the 'iffy' gear that might be fallen on here.

Photos

Mark Wright
Minneapolis, MN
Mark Wright   Minneapolis, MN
Fun route to top rope from the anchors for the route on the left... May 2, 2013
NickinCO
colorado
5.8- R
NickinCO   colorado
5.8- R
I did this last weekend, it was a little runout but I didn't think it was that bad. I believe I placed a ballnut, 2 stoppers and one brassie before the bolt. After the bolt I ran it out to the anchors to the right because there were other climbers to my left. Mar 2, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 X
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 X
This route deserves an X rating- the R is a joke. The friable rock and lack of pro would make this route insane for anyone who is at this crag for the other routes. Only fools who are out here on a rest day should even entertain the idea of leading it. Feb 13, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 X
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 X
On 3/3/10, the ASCA replaced the pro bolt on this climb (in addition to the shared anchor with Neon Sunset) with a 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolt. Mar 4, 2010
L. Hamilton
  5.8-
L. Hamilton  
  5.8-
Bored with the clip-ups on this crag? Lead Zipperhead, a route from an earlier era, for an experience a little bit different. Place small gear (cams and stoppers) until the first crack ends at about 1/3 height. Then go for a hike, no harder than 5.6 but stay focused, past blind cracks to reach the lone bolt up and right at around 2/3 height (yes, do the math). From the bolt, move up steeper ground to the anchors without clipping other bolts on the sport routes to your left or your right. It's not difficult, but you'll remember this lead when you've forgotten all the others. Mar 21, 2004