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Thong

5.6 V-easy R, Trad, Boulder, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 30 votes
FA: T. Swain, M. Parker, '94
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (03) First Pull… > Panty Wall
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

This route climbs to the right-most set of anchors and was formerly the right-most 'route' (all 16 feet of it) of the right-most buttress of Panty Wall.
Now there are 2 more 'routes' that share the anchor, Tidy Whities and Granny Panties.

Approach Panty Wall via the normal trail. Start up and right on the ramp at the wall's base, trying hard not to step on or be bumped off by one of the 3 dozen climbers standing on it on any given day...

Pass the standard up/down scramble, a 4th class gully splitting the wall, then pass a few small crack systems to reach a short curved crack and flake at the wall's right end. This is moderate in difficulty and memory dictates that it is a mere 5m high. Climb up and into the crack (crux), then to the top (5.5?).

Walk off right or to the left and scramble down the little gully.

Protection

A light standard rack, by some reports (I did not protect). Were it not for the possibility for quite a tumble from the ledge below this route, it would probably be considered a boulder problem by most people.t

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thong from the right
[Hide Photo] Thong from the right
Bottom of Thong from the right side. A belay anchor can be created with small pieces at the bottom of the route to protect climber and belayer from a fall off the ledge.
[Hide Photo] Bottom of Thong from the right side. A belay anchor can be created with small pieces at the bottom of the route to protect climber and belayer from a fall off the ledge.
Was a great climb! Protects pretty well... Easy Warm-up
[Hide Photo] Was a great climb! Protects pretty well... Easy Warm-up

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is a great Problem to muse. Takes a little time but is well worth it!! Aug 16, 2005
George Wilson
Las Vegas
 
[Hide Comment] Almost no use in protecting this little climb...Bring medium nuts and a small cam if you're feeling hung over! A good second option for a crowded sport wall!! Oct 17, 2007
[Hide Comment] Please consider changing the rating of this route from a bouldering problem to a trad route... a fall without pro on this route would not be good. I placed 6 pieces before getting to anchor. Guide books says 35 feet, 5.7. Jan 3, 2018
[Hide Comment] Agree with Mark that this should be labeled a trad climb and not a boulder problem. Feb 2, 2020
Aaron Sefton
Lakewood, CO
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] There are now fixed anchors at the top. I thought this was a little harder than Cover My Buttress (listed here as a 5.5) to the left. A fall could send both the climber and belayer off the ledge. We used small pieces to build an anchor at the bottom for the belayer. Apr 3, 2022
Jonathan Bright
Huntington, NY
[Hide Comment] This says "right-most" but then there are 3 more climbs to the right... Nov 6, 2022
gunkie X
Solebury, PA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] JAN 2023 -- Did this route on a whim. Fun trad lead. One medium nut and three small/medium cams laces this route up. Bolted anchors at the top. I would recommend setting up an anchor belay below the climb as a lead fall before placing gear might drag the leader and belayer over the lip of the sloping belay spot and down a cliff. I like the name, "I'm Gunkie, Damn it!" better. Jan 29, 2023