Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Tuna and Chips Wall

Albacore Man T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Chips Ahoy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips and Salsa T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dolphin Safe T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fishbreath T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Minnow, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sierra Club Tower TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tuna Cookies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tuna and Chips T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Waterstreak T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, TR, 230 ft
FA: J. Kessler, '87.
Page Views: 1,694 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


31 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This climb is a fun climb, but is a sandbag unless you wander around to find holds. The name implies and fulfills itself in this relatively water-polished line. While in the book as 2 pitches, with a fixed belay above the 'pillar' or just run all the way up in a single 70M pitch.

In the center of the Tuna and Chips wall there is a small tower with a crack/groove on each side. 'Tuna Cookies' is on the left and 'Waterstreak' is on the right. Walk up the right side to a darker, rounded chute and start climbing Waterstreak.

Climb up and past a few bolts- these are a distance apart, and the climbing between a little unobvious and insecure. Best to be on your game on this route. Continue up (getting easier now) eventually reaching the top of the pillar and the groove above it. Belay here at the anchor or continue climbing up the groove as for Tuna Cookies. The relatively easy moves to reach the summit of the right side of the Tuna and Chips Wall will be welcome with the runout.

Belay up top and then to walk off, go back and to the right and scramble down (5.0).

Like Tuna and Chips, this is a fun line and will provide good climbing for a party competent to lead it.

Protection

A few draws and a standard light rack.

Photos

Tim Watkins
Asheville, NC
  5.8 R
Tim Watkins   Asheville, NC
  5.8 R
Just to reiterate what Ryan said, the 5.8 version on the right side does not allow you to clip the 3rd bolt. The first two bolts are low and fairly close together so you will be at groundfall for the last 20 or 25 feet. There is no gear except for slinging plates 5-8 feet below the anchor. Dec 22, 2014
Dave.B
Hubert, NC
  5.10a X
Dave.B   Hubert, NC
  5.10a X
I'll second Ron's comment. The direct route up the water-streak is a sustained 5.10a with horrible run-out bolts. Very fun, 3 stars for the direct route as a TR.

The crack to the left (easy 5.5ish) is much safer to lead with TRAD gear and takes pro well if you want to setup a top rope.

The 5.8 lines (right or left) are very fun but the bolt placement makes for a dicey lead with very little options for TRAD gear between run-out bolts. It is a fun climb but I would hate to lead it. 2 Stars, rated-R Feb 24, 2014
Ryan Watts
Bishop, CA
  5.8 R
Ryan Watts   Bishop, CA
  5.8 R
One thing to note, if you lead the 5.8 version in order to TR the 10a -- the climbing slightly to the right of the streak is easy, but will leave you out of position to clip the 3rd bolt. You can either make a somewhat spooky move out into the streak to clip it, or just solo to the anchors on easy ground.

If possible, it would probably be a better idea to cross over the streak earlier so you are on the left margin to clip the bolt. Jan 27, 2014
Tom Lausch
Madison WI
  5.10a R
Tom Lausch   Madison WI
  5.10a R
5.10A is the only good way to climb this. Straight up the chute with no using the side. Good friction all the way. Clipping stances were good. But dont miss the 3rd bolt or you will end up in the hospital. Nov 28, 2012
celerystick
Riverton
5.10a R
celerystick   Riverton
5.10a R
This is an awesome route if you stay inside the water streak. It's a good 5.10 as long as you don't veer out to the tempting bigger holds. Stay inside and you'll be rewarded with a great climb. Good chance of decking if you don't toprope it or rig like a previous poster said. Mar 2, 2009
Ron Graham
  5.10a R
Ron Graham  
  5.10a R
The 5.10a version of the waterstreak is an awesome toprope climb. Those who want to try leading it without taking a risk of decking from a fall between the second and third bolts might want to rig a long sling from the third bolt that creates an interim clip-in point.

Whether top-roped or led, this is an excellent climb for focusing on your feet. The handholds are very crimpy and often far apart, requiring very careful foot placements to advance comfortably up the route. Dec 30, 2008
Chauncemaster
Sandy, UT
5.8+ R
Chauncemaster   Sandy, UT
5.8+ R
This route is extremely runout, would not recommend for a 5.8 climber. Maybe we missed a bolt or one was missing but there is definitely possibility for a groundfall from about 40-50 feet high if you came off at just the wrong time which would not be pretty. Oct 8, 2008
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
If you climb directly up the waterstreak, without using any of the larger holds to the left or right, the route is 5.10a. It's very runout between the second and third bolts, and if you fell right before clipping the 3rd bolt you stand a very high chance of decking (can't say I was too keen to test the idea). Very fun, but maybe something to do on TR after climbing it the 5.8 way.

Ian Apr 1, 2006