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Routes in Tuna and Chips Wall

Albacore Man T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Chips Ahoy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips and Salsa T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dolphin Safe T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fishbreath T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Minnow, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sierra Club Tower TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tuna Cookies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tuna and Chips T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Waterstreak T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 230 ft
FA: NOLS staff members, '87.
Page Views: 1,192 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This climb is a fun climb. While in the book as 2 pitches, I chose to run to the top, to the end of my 70M rope. This worked well for me, but perhaps someone can comment on the belay situation in detail if done in 2 pitches.

In the center of the Tuna and Chips wall there is a small tower with a crack/groove on each side. 'Tuna Cookies' is on the left and 'Waterstreak' is on the right. Walk up the left side and start Tuna Cookies.

Just left of the left side of this pillar, spot a bolt perhaps 10 meters up. Make your way to this bolt and continue beyond, passing another bolt and eventually reaching the top of the pillar and the groove above it. Continue climbing up the groove on easy moves to reach the summit of the right side of the Tuna and Chips Wall and belay.

To walk off, go back and to the right and scramble down (5.0).

Like Tuna and Chips, this is a fun line and will provide good climbing for a party competent to lead it.

Protection

A few draws and a standard light rack.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8 R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8 R
Quite steep and sustained but excellent. Feb 3, 2010
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Easy start to the first bolt, but requires a committing 1-2 step move left to clip the bolt ~30 feet up. Rest of the climb is a blast with a variety of large and small (but positive) holds. I think this is listed as "Albacore Man" in the old Todd Swain guidebook. Apr 13, 2009