Avg: 2.2 from 38 votes
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft|
|Page Views:||2,499 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Dec 27, 2002|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
From the crack which splits the center of the Tuna and Chips wall ('Tuna Cookies', 5.7) walk up and left around some shrubs for 7 meters to reach a starting point on the left side of the face with good holds... and a few bolts. Climb more or less straight up on small edges and crimps past 3 bolts to a small crack, then up and onward again to the rounded top of the wall. The belay up top is reasonably secure, but may require (if memory serves) a long cordalette or webbing if you want to sit up at the edge to watch your second.
This is a fun line and will provide good climbing for a party competent to lead it. For the second, be aware of rope stretch potential, but really the climbing is straightforward and simple. Both my beginner friend and I enjoyed it.
Edit to add: Another user comments on the belay opportunity:
"After the last bolt it's about 20 feet to a good cam placement. Above this there is an obvious finger crack splitting the upper slab. Belay here on good medium cams and stoppers. Belay is good but semi-hanging. Stone is surprisingly good for the belay."
Whilst another adds:
"I found the belay crack very uninspiring or solid... I was pulling out loose rock around and from in the crack, and you need a lot of small gear to make it work. Ended up running the pitch together."
So it appears that YMMV.