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Routes in Tuna and Chips Wall

Albacore Man T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Chips Ahoy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips and Salsa T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dolphin Safe T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fishbreath T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Minnow, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sierra Club Tower TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tuna Cookies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tuna and Chips T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Waterstreak T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 230 ft
FA: B. Conz,
Page Views: 1,747 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2002 with updates
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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34 Opinions

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This climb is a fun climb. While in the book as 2 pitches, I did not find the belay to be inspiring and was climbing with a novice at the time, so I chose to run to the top, to near the end of my 70M rope. This worked well, and he didn't mind the potential rope stretch so much as the thought of hanging on small gear in soft stone.

From the crack which splits the center of the Tuna and Chips wall ('Tuna Cookies', 5.7) walk up and left around some shrubs for 7 meters to reach a starting point on the left side of the face with good holds... and a few bolts. Climb more or less straight up on small edges and crimps past 3 bolts to a small crack, then up and onward again to the rounded top of the wall. The belay up top is reasonably secure, but may require (if memory serves) a long cordalette or webbing if you want to sit up at the edge to watch your second.

This is a fun line and will provide good climbing for a party competent to lead it. For the second, be aware of rope stretch potential, but really the climbing is straightforward and simple. Both my beginner friend and I enjoyed it.

Edit to add: Another user comments on the belay opportunity:
"After the last bolt it's about 20 feet to a good cam placement. Above this there is an obvious finger crack splitting the upper slab. Belay here on good medium cams and stoppers. Belay is good but semi-hanging. Stone is surprisingly good for the belay."
Whilst another adds:
"I found the belay crack very uninspiring or solid... I was pulling out loose rock around and from in the crack, and you need a lot of small gear to make it work. Ended up running the pitch together."

So it appears that YMMV.

Protection

A few draws and a standard light rack.

Photos

AlexandreK  
 
I did this the other day, and honestly maybe I am not as familiar with Red Rocks rock but I found the belay crack very uninspiring or solid. I also broke 2 holds while climbing, somehow didn't fall. I was pulling out loose rock around and from in the crack, and you need a lot of small gear to make it work. Ended up running the pitch together, and there really isn't a lot of pro on this thing. I would call it R/X, depending on how many small cams you own and your opinion on the possible 35ft groundfall before the first bolt or the higher falls later where you trusting questionable rock. Mar 16, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.7 R
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.7 R
After the last bolt it's about 20 feet to a good cam placement. Above this there is an obvious finger crack splitting the upper slab. Belay here on good medium cams and stoppers. Belay is good but semi-hanging. Stone is surprisingly good for the belay- no need to worry.

2nd pitch climbs the finger crack for about 25 feet and then fades out. Move up over easy terrain to a 2-bolt anchor on top of a block. Webbing and a locker were there on 2/15/2011. If you wanted to avoid the walk off, you could rap with 2 ropes back to the anchor of Dolphin Safe and then another rap to the ground. Feb 15, 2012
Jay Holland
Heath , Texas
 
Jay Holland   Heath , Texas
 
Very fun route on a cool winter day. This wall get's good sun! Very run out..........can be sketchy if not sure of your ability. Holds are very possitve and good friction! My opinion is an actual 5.7 not soft some here can be. Dec 31, 2009
TedV
Lost Wages
  5.7 R
TedV   Lost Wages
  5.7 R
It is a fun route/ Be aware that there are only 3 bolts on the first 120 feet. The belay station requires gear and is on a small black ledge where the crack zags left and up again. It took good gear and was a good anchor.
It is a long way between bolts, but I did find some flakes to sling inbetween the second and third bolts and between the third bolt and where I set up my anchor. Dec 30, 2008