Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m)
FA: B. Conz, Jim "Frodo" Lybarger
Page Views: 3,782 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


48 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This climb is a fun climb. While in the book as 2 pitches, I did not find the belay to be inspiring and was climbing with a novice at the time, so I chose to run to the top, to near the end of my 70M rope. This worked well, and he didn't mind the potential rope stretch so much as the thought of hanging on small gear in soft stone.

From the crack which splits the center of the Tuna and Chips wall ('Tuna Cookies', 5.7) walk up and left around some shrubs for 7 meters to reach a starting point on the left side of the face with good holds... and a few bolts. Climb more or less straight up on small edges and crimps past 3 bolts to a small crack, then up and onward again to the rounded top of the wall. The belay up top is reasonably secure, but may require (if memory serves) a long cordalette or webbing if you want to sit up at the edge to watch your second.

This is a fun line and will provide good climbing for a party competent to lead it. For the second, be aware of rope stretch potential, but really the climbing is straightforward and simple. Both my beginner friend and I enjoyed it.

Edit to add: Another user comments on the belay opportunity:
"After the last bolt it's about 20 feet to a good cam placement. Above this there is an obvious finger crack splitting the upper slab. Belay here on good medium cams and stoppers. Belay is good but semi-hanging. Stone is surprisingly good for the belay."
Whilst another adds:
"I found the belay crack very uninspiring or solid... I was pulling out loose rock around and from in the crack, and you need a lot of small gear to make it work. Ended up running the pitch together."

So it appears that YMMV.

Protection Suggest change

A few draws and a standard light rack.

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