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Johnny Vegas
5.7,
Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.2 from 950
votes
FA: Tom Cecil, Dave Cox, Harrison Shull, Todd Hewitt, 11/94
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (12) Oak Creek…
> Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Approach as per Solar Slab Gully. The start of Johnny Vegas is just to the left (when facing the wall), behind a boulder perched on a short pedestal of rock.
p1. Start up the double cracks, which eventually become a single crack. As the protection starts to become sparser, trend up and left. Belay at a bolted anchor on a platform at the base of a short dark dihedral. A long pitch.
p2. Stem up the dihedral to gain a face with some questionable rock. Continue up and slightly right to another bolted belay, below the base of a right-facing dihedral capped by a roof.
p3. Head up and right on the easy but run out slab, and continue up, and around the corner. The pro is better once around the corner. The crux route-finding is deciding when to surmount the apex of the face and start trending back to the left. It's easy to come up to slabby ground and find yourself above the belay/rappel anchor.
p4. Head up easy climbing to the boulders near the edge of the main Solar Slab Terrace, and continue scrambling up to the base of Solar Slab if so desired.
With the exception of p4, all of the pitches felt like they had some 5.6 climbing, and some friable rock.
Rappel from the top of p3 with two ropes (or if you only have one rope, head down Solar Slab Gully).
[Hide Photo] Ron putting up pitch 3: cold, cloudy week days mean it's just you and your partner. And when he turns that roof, it's just you and the old bolt hanger. November 2011
[Hide Comment] It's also possible to do a different pitch 1 starting right of Beulah's Book. A party got in front of us using this alternate start and reported it's similar in difficulty to the regular pitch 1 (maybe a little more runout, though).
We also combined 3&4 with a 50m rope, I think it just barely made it (Swain calls it 180', and we might have had to simulclimb a little with our 50m). This way you do not have to downclimb to the 3rd anchor (after climbing too high)!
Mar 1, 2004
[Hide Comment] We combined the pitches 3 and 4 too, George, but we had a 60m. Going straight up the corner for P3 and moving out right at the bolt is 5.9 friction.
Mar 1, 2004
[Hide Comment] I'd honestly have to give this route a higher star rating, 2.5 at least, and as for the grade...by Red Rocks standards I would definitely have to say this was a slight step up from anything in the 5.6 range there. If it were in other places I could see it being called 5.6. Anyhow, it's all subjective.
By the way, the nice shiny bolt on the 3rd pitch is for the 5.9 variation in the right facing dihedral, which is by far better than the right traverse out to the rounded arete. Going right at the 3rd belay is 5.4 but harder to protect off the belay than in the dihedral.
Apr 23, 2004
[Hide Comment] Don't rappel this route. This recommendation is based on personal experience and also that of others. It is very easy to get ropes snagged while descending this route. You would be much better off making your way to the right and rapping Solar Slab Gully with one rope.
Jan 31, 2006
[Hide Comment] This climb was a blast. The second pitch is just fun cruisin'. Rapping each pitch individually is probably the best option for rope pulling and traffic issues.
Feb 9, 2006
[Hide Comment] I would disagree with John about the rappel-this is the quickest and most safe descent from the solar slab ledge that I know of, and I've done every route on the wall that's in the guidebook. I've descended the Solar Slab Gully by rappel at least three times (I may be blocking out other times-*find a happy place!*) and find it complex, sketchy to find and traverse to certain anchors on the way down, and Johnny Vegas offers a quick, safe solution. A short (50 ft) rap from the boulder, a 120' exposed rap over the roof to the P2 anchors, two full length raps, and you're back at your packs. Stuck ropes are as common as cheap hookers in Vegas, but do the math on how many short, diagonaling rappels are in the gully, and you'll see my point-mathematically speaking, it's better odds doing 3.5 raps straight down. See Nevada Forums for info about the accident report in SS Gully-I climbed Horndogger Select that day, and very nearly got to witness the results of that rappel and an inexperienced and tired climber. I went down JV and hit the ground in less than 20 minutes of rapping. We weren't there to assist because we were already scarfing pizza at home by the time the other party got to the next to last rap in the gully.
Jul 24, 2007
[Hide Comment] I have a question about the slab on the start of P3. That sure didn't feel like 5.6 (to my fat ass anyway) I went about half way and fell on my pro, then traversed out to the right and went up that way on much easier terrain. Clipped the bolt from above/right. Can anyone comment on these moves? Are they really .6 or more like .9 (in the dihederal on the left of the slab)? Man I love friction but that freaked me out for some reason.
Nov 23, 2007
[Hide Comment] Cammyjams-- it sounds like you got onto the 5.9 variation. The standard route goes to the right from the 2nd belay. The climbing is very easy, but not much protection on the right (unless you do something weird, you will be too far to the right to even clip the bolt).
Nov 24, 2007
[Hide Comment] JV is a fun route. We had two parties rappelling down while we were climbing up...This made for quite a scene!!! Both parties reluctantly climbed back up to free their snagged rope. I would recommend rappelling the gully as it puts you right back were you start JV. Using the gully for descent also creates less traffic on JV. We descended the gully, had no issues and were down about the same time the snagged rope climbers were packing up. This descent uses one rope (we had a 70 meter) and is very straight forward. There are even some old pitons next to one of the rap anchors for your viewing pleasure!!! Be prepared to walk out in the dark.
Nov 27, 2007
[Hide Comment] Thanks Larry, I realize this probably should have been posted in the forums. I'm gonna go back up there soon and nail that slab. It just seemed like the 'right' way to go off of the belay at the time. Live and learn. 5.9, not 5.6, LOL.
Nov 27, 2007
[Hide Comment] Great route! The climbing was always interesting and never really stressful. This was our "warm-up" for Solar Slab, so we had a full day.
As for the dreaded rope snags, ours got snagged twice coming down JV after rapping Solar Slab without any issues. It was a real pain in the ass, but it doesn't look like rapping the gully would have made any difference: as we were hiking out, we heard obscenities from a climber with a snagged rope in the SS gully.
[Hide Comment] My partner and I did the 5.9 variation on pitch 3 without clipping the bolt. The slab was really slippery and there's absolutely nothing on it to grab, but it contains some very shallow divots high up that offered us just enough traction for our mantled palms to keep from slipping off. If you set a piece high enough up the crack in the dihedral, a slip on the traverse will result in a pendulum across the smooth slab high enough to miss the more featured rock below it. The layback moves required to set a piece that high are pretty fun. Fortunately, neither of us slipped during our traverses, but the slap was so powdery we both felt like we were right on the edge of doing so!
A few sections of this route that might feel a little runout contain solid horns that can be slung for protection. You might want to look for them and use them whenever potential gear placements aren't obvious.
Nov 17, 2008
[Hide Comment] A note for the start. Best to "suit up" at the base of the descent gully. You can then easily scramble up to your left (4th class) to the base of the actual climb. Nice to find your packs waiting for you right where you descend!
Great climb, but very easy except for the 2nd pitch, which is way classic. And just when you think the challenges are over the holds begin to thin out and it becomes run out! Nothing to fear as you will find what you need but keep a cool head.
Rappelling the gully takes a while as there is a lot of junk and ledges and you are continually having to help your rope along. Also lots of loose rock so be careful. I managed to pull a rock down behind me with the rope. Would'nt you know it that the rock managed to take the rope with it and wedge it perfectly into a crack below me. Luckily was able to dislodge the rock with my hands and free the rope. Lots of opportunity for adventure here.
Most of the rappel anchors in the gully are obvious accept for the second one. Continue on past tempting rappel trees and look left. You will see a very exposed anchor on the cliff corner.
A great climb. If I ever do it again though will get there a lot earlier and try to link it up with Solar Slab (which several other parties had done that day) which looks and sounds awesome.
Dec 3, 2008
[Hide Comment] If there are any other parties on this route (and there probably will be) - please, please consider rapping Solar Slab Gully instead of this route. You'll be doing a service to those following you.
Contrary to some of the reports above, I found the gully to be an easy descent. Six straightforward single-rope rappels.
May 7, 2009
[Hide Comment] Combined w/Solar Slab is it possible to find more 5.6 in one climb? Amazingly fun and a must do.
Get there EARLY. Easy to route find, just follow the chalk. Each pitch has something different and fun. The "R" on P2 is just real 5.6 climbing w/o those monstrous jugs you get used to but still pro where you need it. Combine P3 & 4 for sure.
Props to Tom, Harrison et al for this one!
Dec 9, 2009
[Hide Comment] Perhaps the finest 5.7 blast I've ever climbed. More fun than runnin' naked through Sunday service. A bit run out on P2, but mostly on solid (but steep!) 5.6 ground.
DO NOT SKIP the short, obvious 5.9 dihedral on P3--it's most excellent. And you don't need to clip the bolt to lead this, but definitely show your second that you care by clippin' it anyway, cowboys and gurls.
Finally, P4? Really? Rope up for what is ordinarily considered "scrambling"? I think the opening moves just to mount the boulders at the bottom of P1 were harder than anything on that P4 mound...
About rapping: We rapped JV with zero problems, this with two spaghetti string ropes that usually insist on snagging. That gully sounds vicious to me; would recommend rapping JV every time (provided it's the end of a full, Solar Slab day and the crowds are gone) and making sure you give a damn good YANK at the end to clear the rope. Also, do stop at that short, auxiliary station 50ft below the P3 anchor.
Apr 1, 2010
[Hide Comment] Great route, definitely worthwhile! I was concerned about the descriptions of pitch 2 and 3 being spicy. Two was a tad spicy, but not bad and the gear you do get is good. Pitch 3 is runout on the arete, with the exception of slinging some chicken heads, but its easy ground. We too missed the belay atop P3. If you find yourself 20-30 feet above the anchors, just push it up another 20 feet or so to the bolts atop P4.
We rapped Solar Gully with a single 60 meter rope. A 50 probably would have worked, but would have been close on a couple raps.
Apr 11, 2010
[Hide Comment] I'd give it 4 stars but I haven't done enough classics at Red Rock to understand the difference between classic and great. It's a route with three wonderful pitches. Pitch 2 is fantastic! Steep with great holds. I really enjoyed P3 with its exposed easy run out arete, the traversing left across the lip of roof at the first easy opportunity. The 5.9 corner and slab seems out of character with the rest of the climb if chosen as a variation.
Mar 13, 2011
[Hide Comment] This was my first trad climb I have done. The holds were excellent and it felt relatively easy to place gear. I recommend this climb for a beginner trad climber.
Feb 25, 2012
[Hide Comment] The whole climb came down to the micro placements half way through the second pitch. a couple nut placements and GO! On the third pitch, dont hesitate to look around the corner - there is fun to be had - then you dont have to sling those heads.
climbphx.com - CLimbPHX climbin in the desert!
Sep 26, 2012
[Hide Comment] I just climbed this for the 4th time and finally did the 3rd pitch 5.9 varation. I found that you can sew this up with cams, very little risk to make the crux move to clip the bolt. I just love this climb.
Apr 9, 2013
[Hide Comment] Climbed this thing at night on a mid-summer's evening. What a blast that was! Sweet views from the huge ledge between JV and Solar Slab (Mt. Wilson illuminated by the city lights as well as the upper Solar Slab).
As for beta:
Single rack to 3". The ST rack was WAAAY overkill. This is one of the best 5.7's I have climbed anywhere. Red Rock moderate climbing at its finest.
RE: Rapping the route....
If you know what you are doing you will be fine rapping the route - we rapped it at night in gusty winds and had no hang-ups on rappel, just be mindful of what you are rapping over and be sure to use the station 50' from the top station...YMMV
Jul 7, 2013
[Hide Comment] Third time I have done this route. Entire route is outstanding, but the 2nd pitch is fantastic and the third pitch 5.9 variation is a most do. I am a 5.7 leader and the third pitch felt very secure. Takes great gear making the consequence of a fall very safe IMHO. Have fun...!! Great Route!
Nov 19, 2013
[Hide Comment] really enjoyed this. i led 1st and third pitches. was gonna combine 3 and 4 but rope drag was crazy. maybe because i did sling a couple knobs in the runout section. thought the 1st pitch was between 5.6 and 5.7. the second pitch seemed to be the crux to me. a little runout for my partner at 5.7. she might have been able to place some small gear. 3rd pitch was 5.5 or maybe 5.6 but the runout section was easy. head back left as soon as you can start placing gear again and you'll end up below or beside the anchors. you can avoid a lot of the diagonal rappels in the gully with a 70m all the way on the 1st rappel.
Nov 14, 2014
[Hide Comment] My buddy and I did this route and noticed some rap anchors I didn't see mentioned here. When you top out on JV there are a few huge boulders. Walk around the boulder to the north. You will see anchors at your feet while peering down into the Solar Slab Gully.
When looking down from the anchor you really can't see the next station. We had 80 Meters of single rope confidence so I gave it a try. The first rap drops you on to a ledge. About 20 feet east / left is a tree with webbing.
From this point you are 3 raps from the base of Solar Slab Gully. It should be easily done with a single 60M.
Mar 25, 2015
[Hide Comment] I gotta say this is about the easiest 5.7 I've ever climbed. Did not really see the fuss with run outs as the climbing was so easy as to not make that a concern. Really enjoyed the route.
May 28, 2015
[Hide Comment] For experienced climbers, rapping SS Gully is totally casual and fast: 6 quick singles. Yes, care is needed, but don't fear the hype. But also don't rap down if people are coming up it!
Dec 15, 2015
[Hide Comment] You can rappel down the route from the top of P3 with 2 ropes. Lots of chickenheads can mean stuck ropes. We took this option once, albeit from the top of the climb.
Taking the gully route, there are two options. Option one is to rappel down the gully route with a single 60m (I think, I can't confirm because I took option 2). Option 2: Once you go around the large boulder at the top of the route to reach the Solar Slab option, there is a rappel station if you take a hard right. We took this option because there was a party coming up the Gully.
For this rappel, we used a single 70m. The rope did NOT touch the ground, but there is an intermediate rappel on climbers left, on a small ledge with a tat-tree. We hooked up to this station and got into gully. Continue on down the Gully route for the remainder of the rappels.
If you heard the news of the Spokane climber who died here, this is where he fell. We don't know why or how. But be careful with your rappels, step carefully, use a prusik or autoblock to back-up your rap, and tie knots in the ends of your ropes.
Jan 6, 2016
[Hide Comment] Great rock, excellent position, good pro, and no hard moves. Rarely does a multi-pitch climb have all four of those attributes. We rapped the route without incident. Descending over the 3rd pitch roof was stimulating.
Mar 11, 2016
[Hide Comment] Pitch 3 and 4 were easily linked with a 60 meter. I found pitch three to have plenty of pro in the form of slung chicken heads and smallish gear. I think the the book say something like "no pro until even with the roof" not the case -- well protected.
Link this with upper solar slab for a long day of cruiser climbing!! And do the the walk off! I have heard epic stories about the walk off from solar slab, but we followed the directions from the Handren guide, found the bolted anchors right away, two double rope raps, then mild scrambling. Maybe took 2 - 2.5 hrs back to the car.
Apr 6, 2016
Like others mentón, the runout start can be protected by slinging chicken heads. Once you get to the right of the roof you'll see two crack systems. One goes up and left, the other goes up and right. Take the one that goes up and left. Once you pop over this face section, you'll see the single rap ring on webbing.
May 3, 2016
[Hide Comment] Great route which we climbed yesterday 10 Jan in the sun. Sensational moves on ironstone jugs gray protection and positions. Our first multi at RR. Very windy at the top Really enjoyed the excellent bollard (chicken head) runners on pitch 3 - soft 10mm tape great for lacing these. Rapping the route would have been a real drama in the wind - the 5 raps down solar gully were definitely in the convenience climbing category thanks heaps to the folks that set this up.
Jan 11, 2017
[Hide Comment] Did this route this week on the way up to Solar Slab. Fun climbing! I led the "5.9" slab variation, and I felt like that is the natural way to do that section of route, and it protects well. I didn't agree with the 5.9 grade tho. Maybe 5.7. One little smear move on a sticky rock.
Apr 19, 2017
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route on 4/3. Loved it! Great exposure and very steep for the grade. Rapped back down the route without a problem.
Apr 19, 2018
[Hide Comment] I've got video of Pitches 1-3 (everything but the final scramble), which might be useful if you want to get a better sense of what it looks like. I did make a routefinding mistake on pitch 3 (that I point out), and ended up above the anchors - which I think may be a common problem.
[Hide Comment] Really fun climb. Mostly 5.5 - 5.6 climbing with a few 5.7 moves on pitch 2.
On pitch 3 once you get to the right side of the roof you have the option of angling left over the roof to belay at rappel anchors or continue up the right angling crack. Don't traverse left to the rappel anchors - it is off-route and causes bad rope drag. Instead continue up the right angling crack which is the actual line and is fun easy climbing that protects very well and has less rope drag while keeping you out of the way of those who decide to rap down Johnny Vegas. At the top of this crack move left out onto the final 20-foot 5.3 slab up to a large belay platform at huge boulders.
Pitch 4 isn't really a pitch as much as it's a 3rd-class walk up slabs to the base of Solar Slab.
Mar 2, 2019
[Hide Comment] With a 70m rope you can rap this route in 3 with no problems. A double rope rap will likely encounter problems with the knot.
Mar 7, 2019
[Hide Comment] It is not recommended to rappel Johnny Vegas because you will likely interfere with other climbing parties coming up the route and also because of the high potential for rope snags - especially on windy days. Many parties have lost hours dealing with rope snags on this rappel.
The best descent option is to locate the rappel anchors at the top of pitch 3 which are off to the climbers right behind the large boulders; they overlook the Solar Slab gully. With a 2-rope rappel you easily drop down to the top of pitch 2 of the Solar Slab Gully route. From here you move 50 feet to the next set of rappel anchors and make a 1-rope rappel to the next set of anchors atop pitch 1. From here you can make a 2-rope rappel to the ground (or break it up into 2 1-rope rappels). In any case this is by far the quickest and easiest way to get down from Johnny Vegas and the Solar Slab terrace.
Mar 19, 2019
[Hide Comment] This route can be rappelled with a single 70m rope with a couple meters to spare at each station. The first three rappels will bring you right to the previous anchors. Once you reach the last rappel anchor, head straight down from the anchor to a slabby area where a large chicken head is wrapped with a 7mm cordalette with a maillon attached to it. This will easily get you down the last ~15m to the ground (20ft away from the start area).
Dec 29, 2019
[Hide Comment] Great beginner trad multi-pitch!! P2 was spicy. Linked P3 and P4. We totally missed the P3 anchors. Rappel: We started the climb late so we had to rap down in the dark with headlamps. We rapped down the solar gully. Hike up from across the boulders and scramble over the short easy slab section until you hit flat ground with vegetation. Then start walk in right to the solar gully. The rap1 rings are across the gully. On rap4, We accidentally rapped down the right gully instead of the left as it was the obvious option in the dark. Beware, take the left gully. With the right gully we eventually ended up on a ledge with ways to go(atleast 20m) and no rap rings. Luckily there was a sling around a chicken head just above the ledge that we used to rap down to our bags.
Nov 29, 2021
[Hide Comment] P1 was very fun and straightforward 5.6 climbing. I found P2 to be very runout in one section; however in hindsight, I probably should have traversed slightly to climber's right and followed the natural weakness in the rock better. Maybe there would have been better gear. A good lesson: Don't just blindly go up. P3 was not a big deal at all if you are comfortable slinging 2-3 chickenheads/plates for pro, but stay out on the arete. Don't climb up the crack from the belay unless you want to do the 5.9 variation (it's an overhanging hand crack, which looks fun). Once you get to the crack around the corner on P3, cut up and to the left when you can (you'll see the secondary crack above you) instead of following the main crack up and to the right. Doing the latter will put you above the P3 anchors. Skipping the P3 anchors and climbing up to the P4 anchors was fine, but there was a lot of rope drag. IMPORTANT: For the decent: We rapped into the Solar Slab gully from the rap station directly behind the big boulders at the top of P4. However, with a 70M rope, you will not get to the deck. I believe I may have missed a rap station here, so once you go over a little lip (and are basically free hanging) look to your right/behind you and you will see an intermediate station of tat (check it - one cord looked frayed) threaded through a big hole in the rock. Use this intermediate station to get down 15M or so to the deck of the gully. A few more short, straightforward raps and you come right back to the base. Personally, I would take a rack and a half. I seem to remember using a lot of small cams in horizontal cracks.
Dec 16, 2021
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this route (like everyone else). Handren's guide describes it as a bit bold, but I generally felt it was fine.
Separately, on 1/9/22, I saw a pair bringing a haul bag up (I guess to bivy on the ledge below Solar Slab) and knocking rocks off. In addition to the danger of dropping rocks off onto a popular climb and base, it seems really unnecessary to potentially damage a trade route like that.
Jan 10, 2022
[Hide Comment] Pitch 2 is pretty straight up; the "slightly right" in the route description above is misleading. Where pitch 3 is unprotectable it's like a ladder, no worries there. If the rope is managed well P3 and P4 should be linked. P4 is relatively short and the easiest of the climb. DESCENT: The closest rap station to P4 anchor is up climber's right around the rock formation. Double 70m rope rap will get you to a spacious flatish area in the gully close to another rap anchor. From there, saddlebag single rope raps will help immensely with rope management. Double rope raps further on look risky. That gully looks like a rope eater.
Feb 8, 2022
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route last year and actually missed the anchor between pitch 3 & 4 by going too far right near the end of the runout slab on pitch 3. I ended up following a crescent-shaped crack system around the right side of the broad arete that eventually flattens out into easyish slab. The climbing was actually pretty awesome, with good holds most of the way that felt about 5.6 and a far more exposed feeling than the rest of the route. The only drawback way some preeeeetty heinous rope drag near the end. This would be a viable option for a variation if you build a gear anchor after turning the corner and split it into two pitches. Just wanted to let folks know that if you do get off-route here, it’s still climbable terrain and can actually be fun! Call it an accidental variation! :P
Oct 13, 2022
[Hide Comment] My partner and I did this climb yesterday, and it was great fun!
Beta for the Rappel Down:
At the top of P4, there is a large boulder. There is a nice bolted anchor system to the climber’s right, behind the big boulder. We rapped down this with a single 70m until we saw another bolted anchor system out to the left. (DO NOT be tempted to go to any anchors far out right for the second rappel station) Take the second rappel station down to the solid ground where you can walk out slightly right to the next rappel. From here, look down into the gully for the third rappel station (still bolted). Take this down and to the left for the last and final rappel station. The final rappel station takes you to solid ground for the hike out.
My partner and I saddle bagged our rope for all rappels, but it was probably most useful for the third rappel down the gully. All of our ropes pulled clean.
Apr 17, 2023
[Hide Comment] Need a way down from the top? Head around the boulder at the top of johnny vegas. Visible anchor about 10ft from the north side of the boulder. Rap down 30 ft to a ledge, on the left side is your next anchor. Rap off that and head down the gully. The gully has several more bolted anchors that takes you to the base. We did it with a 70m rope, could most likely be done with a 60m.
Sep 15, 2023
[Hide Comment] Really fun route and definitely a better lead in to solar slab than the gully. All bolted anchors will make it go quicker and they are all fixed with rappel rings so you can retreat at any time. Would definitely do again.
Sep 23, 2023
[Hide Comment] I didn't find it particularly clear whether the rappel could be done with a single 70m without scrambling around to the top of solar slab gully. I can confirm that rapping from the chains behind the boulder (not the anchor in front of the boulder - walk around climber's left side of the boulder) into the gully is possible with a 70m. Look for the midway anchor on climber's left as you go down. All rap stations are bolted, nothing janky at all. 2 raps to the bottom of the first part of the gully, then unrope an walk 30 ft along the base of the gully to the anchor on climber's right under the tree. Three single raps from that tree, stay climber's right as you go down.
I'd also say that the P2 "runout" before the anchor is easily protectable and not run out at all. I kept placing gear thinking it would be my last piece before the anchors and I ended up sewing it up - smallish nuts in horizontals are your friend.
I'd also suggest that this route is soft and not 5.7 as it's easier than cat in the hat, physical graffiti and the 5.5 variation of sunnyside bench.
Dec 5, 2023
Boulder, CO
We also combined 3&4 with a 50m rope, I think it just barely made it (Swain calls it 180', and we might have had to simulclimb a little with our 50m). This way you do not have to downclimb to the 3rd anchor (after climbing too high)! Mar 1, 2004
Lyons, CO
Wichita, Ks.
By the way, the nice shiny bolt on the 3rd pitch is for the 5.9 variation in the right facing dihedral, which is by far better than the right traverse out to the rounded arete. Going right at the 3rd belay is 5.4 but harder to protect off the belay than in the dihedral. Apr 23, 2004
Las Vegas, NV
Albany, New York
Salt Lake City, UT
Las Vegas, NV
Las Vegas, NV
Las Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Decatur, GA
As for the dreaded rope snags, ours got snagged twice coming down JV after rapping Solar Slab without any issues. It was a real pain in the ass, but it doesn't look like rapping the gully would have made any difference: as we were hiking out, we heard obscenities from a climber with a snagged rope in the SS gully.
JL Apr 7, 2008
A few sections of this route that might feel a little runout contain solid horns that can be slung for protection. You might want to look for them and use them whenever potential gear placements aren't obvious. Nov 17, 2008
Boulder, CO
Great climb, but very easy except for the 2nd pitch, which is way classic. And just when you think the challenges are over the holds begin to thin out and it becomes run out! Nothing to fear as you will find what you need but keep a cool head.
Rappelling the gully takes a while as there is a lot of junk and ledges and you are continually having to help your rope along. Also lots of loose rock so be careful. I managed to pull a rock down behind me with the rope. Would'nt you know it that the rock managed to take the rope with it and wedge it perfectly into a crack below me. Luckily was able to dislodge the rock with my hands and free the rope. Lots of opportunity for adventure here.
Most of the rappel anchors in the gully are obvious accept for the second one. Continue on past tempting rappel trees and look left. You will see a very exposed anchor on the cliff corner.
A great climb. If I ever do it again though will get there a lot earlier and try to link it up with Solar Slab (which several other parties had done that day) which looks and sounds awesome. Dec 3, 2008
Tucson/DMR
Contrary to some of the reports above, I found the gully to be an easy descent. Six straightforward single-rope rappels. May 7, 2009
CO
Get there EARLY. Easy to route find, just follow the chalk. Each pitch has something different and fun. The "R" on P2 is just real 5.6 climbing w/o those monstrous jugs you get used to but still pro where you need it. Combine P3 & 4 for sure.
Props to Tom, Harrison et al for this one! Dec 9, 2009
Was Estes Park, now homeless
DO NOT SKIP the short, obvious 5.9 dihedral on P3--it's most excellent. And you don't need to clip the bolt to lead this, but definitely show your second that you care by clippin' it anyway, cowboys and gurls.
Finally, P4? Really? Rope up for what is ordinarily considered "scrambling"? I think the opening moves just to mount the boulders at the bottom of P1 were harder than anything on that P4 mound...
About rapping: We rapped JV with zero problems, this with two spaghetti string ropes that usually insist on snagging. That gully sounds vicious to me; would recommend rapping JV every time (provided it's the end of a full, Solar Slab day and the crowds are gone) and making sure you give a damn good YANK at the end to clear the rope. Also, do stop at that short, auxiliary station 50ft below the P3 anchor. Apr 1, 2010
Folsom
We rapped Solar Gully with a single 60 meter rope. A 50 probably would have worked, but would have been close on a couple raps. Apr 11, 2010
Big Bear Lake
Lakewood
Chandler
Mesa AZ
climbphx.com - CLimbPHX climbin in the desert! Sep 26, 2012
Fort Lauderdale, FL
NEVADASTAN
As for beta:
Single rack to 3". The ST rack was WAAAY overkill. This is one of the best 5.7's I have climbed anywhere. Red Rock moderate climbing at its finest.
RE: Rapping the route....
If you know what you are doing you will be fine rapping the route - we rapped it at night in gusty winds and had no hang-ups on rappel, just be mindful of what you are rapping over and be sure to use the station 50' from the top station...YMMV Jul 7, 2013
Las Vegas, Nevada
SLAKETAHOE
you can avoid a lot of the diagonal rappels in the gully with a 70m all the way on the 1st rappel. Nov 14, 2014
Indiana
When looking down from the anchor you really can't see the next station. We had 80 Meters of single rope confidence so I gave it a try. The first rap drops you on to a ledge. About 20 feet east / left is a tree with webbing.
From this point you are 3 raps from the base of Solar Slab Gully. It should be easily done with a single 60M. Mar 25, 2015
DFW, Texas
Bridgton, ME
Seattle
Taking the gully route, there are two options. Option one is to rappel down the gully route with a single 60m (I think, I can't confirm because I took option 2). Option 2: Once you go around the large boulder at the top of the route to reach the Solar Slab option, there is a rappel station if you take a hard right. We took this option because there was a party coming up the Gully.
For this rappel, we used a single 70m. The rope did NOT touch the ground, but there is an intermediate rappel on climbers left, on a small ledge with a tat-tree. We hooked up to this station and got into gully. Continue on down the Gully route for the remainder of the rappels.
If you heard the news of the Spokane climber who died here, this is where he fell. We don't know why or how. But be careful with your rappels, step carefully, use a prusik or autoblock to back-up your rap, and tie knots in the ends of your ropes. Jan 6, 2016
Portola, CA
Link this with upper solar slab for a long day of cruiser climbing!! And do the the walk off! I have heard epic stories about the walk off from solar slab, but we followed the directions from the Handren guide, found the bolted anchors right away, two double rope raps, then mild scrambling. Maybe took 2 - 2.5 hrs back to the car. Apr 6, 2016
Boulder, CO
Like others mentón, the runout start can be protected by slinging chicken heads. Once you get to the right of the roof you'll see two crack systems. One goes up and left, the other goes up and right. Take the one that goes up and left. Once you pop over this face section, you'll see the single rap ring on webbing. May 3, 2016
Seattle, WA
youtu.be/W34zEB43jiE Sep 1, 2016
Very windy at the top
Really enjoyed the excellent bollard (chicken head) runners on pitch 3 - soft 10mm tape great for lacing these.
Rapping the route would have been a real drama in the wind - the 5 raps down solar gully were definitely in the convenience climbing category thanks heaps to the folks that set this up. Jan 11, 2017
Charlotte, NC
Napanoch, NY
youtube.com/watch?v=HUxslqx… Feb 12, 2019
Las Vegas
On pitch 3 once you get to the right side of the roof you have the option of angling left over the roof to belay at rappel anchors or continue up the right angling crack. Don't traverse left to the rappel anchors - it is off-route and causes bad rope drag. Instead continue up the right angling crack which is the actual line and is fun easy climbing that protects very well and has less rope drag while keeping you out of the way of those who decide to rap down Johnny Vegas. At the top of this crack move left out onto the final 20-foot 5.3 slab up to a large belay platform at huge boulders.
Pitch 4 isn't really a pitch as much as it's a 3rd-class walk up slabs to the base of Solar Slab. Mar 2, 2019
Bend, OR
Las Vegas
The best descent option is to locate the rappel anchors at the top of pitch 3 which are off to the climbers right behind the large boulders; they overlook the Solar Slab gully. With a 2-rope rappel you easily drop down to the top of pitch 2 of the Solar Slab Gully route. From here you move 50 feet to the next set of rappel anchors and make a 1-rope rappel to the next set of anchors atop pitch 1. From here you can make a 2-rope rappel to the ground (or break it up into 2 1-rope rappels). In any case this is by far the quickest and easiest way to get down from Johnny Vegas and the Solar Slab terrace. Mar 19, 2019
TX
Vancouver
Hillsboro, OR
Rappel: We started the climb late so we had to rap down in the dark with headlamps. We rapped down the solar gully. Hike up from across the boulders and scramble over the short easy slab section until you hit flat ground with vegetation. Then start walk in right to the solar gully. The rap1 rings are across the gully. On rap4, We accidentally rapped down the right gully instead of the left as it was the obvious option in the dark. Beware, take the left gully. With the right gully we eventually ended up on a ledge with ways to go(atleast 20m) and no rap rings. Luckily there was a sling around a chicken head just above the ledge that we used to rap down to our bags. Nov 29, 2021
Portland, OR
Boulder, CO
Separately, on 1/9/22, I saw a pair bringing a haul bag up (I guess to bivy on the ledge below Solar Slab) and knocking rocks off. In addition to the danger of dropping rocks off onto a popular climb and base, it seems really unnecessary to potentially damage a trade route like that. Jan 10, 2022
Holbrook, MA
Berkeley
Beta for the Rappel Down:
At the top of P4, there is a large boulder. There is a nice bolted anchor system to the climber’s right, behind the big boulder. We rapped down this with a single 70m until we saw another bolted anchor system out to the left. (DO NOT be tempted to go to any anchors far out right for the second rappel station)
Take the second rappel station down to the solid ground where you can walk out slightly right to the next rappel.
From here, look down into the gully for the third rappel station (still bolted). Take this down and to the left for the last and final rappel station. The final rappel station takes you to solid ground for the hike out.
My partner and I saddle bagged our rope for all rappels, but it was probably most useful for the third rappel down the gully. All of our ropes pulled clean. Apr 17, 2023
SLC, UT
SF, CA
I'd also say that the P2 "runout" before the anchor is easily protectable and not run out at all. I kept placing gear thinking it would be my last piece before the anchors and I ended up sewing it up - smallish nuts in horizontals are your friend.
I'd also suggest that this route is soft and not 5.7 as it's easier than cat in the hat, physical graffiti and the 5.5 variation of sunnyside bench. Dec 5, 2023