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Routes in 7.2.1 - Birthday Rocks

Birthday Boulder TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birthday Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bowing to the Undercling T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Caesarian Tower T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caesarian West Face TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chester's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Doublemint T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Flux Capacitor Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Delorean T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great White Hope T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horner's Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Left Twin, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mitzvah T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phallacy of Symbolism, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right Twin, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: TR
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 86 total, 1/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Oct 20, 2005
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

A variation on Great White Hope.

In the middle of the route, stick to the seam instead of wandering right to the big ledges.

Protection

You can't reach Birthday Crack to protect this one!

Photos

- No Photos -
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Ha! There is actually a further squeeze job on this wall... Climb the arete and close face to right of the arete just right of the Right Twin route. It clocks in at maybe 5.10a and is fun fun... alas I have no name for it that would have impressed Rich. Sep 25, 2017
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
Kiri Namtvedt   Minneapolis, MN
"Big ledges" might be a deceptive description; I'm pretty sure I remember the part this is referring to because I remember thinking "Hoo boy, it's gonna be hard to follow this seam!" and then I spotted some holds off to the right (which were challenging to traverse to). But they were not as far right as Birthday Crack, and were not gigantic. Oct 13, 2013
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
I thought the name was appropriate on a number of levels. Rich, I'm surprised y'all didn't just lead this. Oct 29, 2007
This route has been done often. But I like the name. Oct 29, 2007
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Thank goodness you three are here! At last we have someone who can make sense of the Rules on Naming Routes at the Lake!

Here are a few examples for your explication:
Sometime Crack
Sometime Direct

The End
The End Direct
The End of the End

Upper Diagonal
Flake Route
Angle of the Dangle

Lower Diagonal
The Trick

Ironmongers
Ironmongers Super Direct

Fantasy
Weasels Ripped My Flesh

Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H)

Callipigenous
Callipigenous Direct

Flatus
Flatus Direct
Flatus Triple Direct

I could go on, but you get the idea! Does it feel like we're naming boulder problems and not Serious Routes? Decades ago John Gill observed that top-roping and bouldering are really the same climbing form, at least in a purely gymnastic sense. Consciously or not, all the top-roping we do around here has made its mark on how we look at and name these rocks. It's a little late to establish some other basis for naming routes. You would have to change how most people spend their time climbing in order to make your new view of the rocks stick.

The day we did the variation described above, we were having a lot of fun. As people often do, I thought I would give a name to our fun, and share it with others who might be interested. If you don't find it interesting or fun, you are welcome to ignore it. Or are you telling me that you would rather I just didn't share? What is the point of MountainProject, again?

I suppose that what set you three off might be the credit I gave to some friends for the "FRA ????" Many people feel that it is impossible to do anything new at the Lake, and many more feel that only the Lake's leading lights are capable of something new and hard. I would suggest that the fun you can create is limited by your imagination, and there are more people around here who enjoy exercising their imagination than you think.

You guys take your climbing a little too Seriously, I think. Oct 26, 2007
Chest Rockwell
Lodi, WI
Chest Rockwell   Lodi, WI
Wow, if this isn't the epitome of contrived at DL then I don't know what is. This route listing should be deleted for reasons of pure lameness. Feb 26, 2007
I would agree with Jay on this one. Dec 1, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
To be fair to those who did the first ascent of Great White Hope, this "route" should be listed as a variation, and not as an entirely new line.

Hey, I climbed Acid Rock once without using the crouton foothold. Does that mean I can name my variation and post it on this site? Oct 26, 2005