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Pie Plate

5.11a, TR,  Avg: 2.9 from 12 votes
FA: Tommy D? in the 1970's
Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 17: Hawk's Nest

Description

Stout thin start (12- for direct start off the ground, 11- for jumping to the jug ledge or traversing in). Thin wandery face utilizing the pie plate hold, which feels like it might rip off when you crank on it. Eases up higher up. A very bold lead, but has been soloed.

Protection

t.r. or ???

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JJ, Pieplate
[Hide Photo] JJ, Pieplate

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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] This is a great route with flowing moves the entire way. .11a/b if you start by jumping up to the obvious jug at the beginning. .12a/b if you actually use the crimps and boulder out the beginning. Classic crimping. Sep 28, 2006
Tradiban
  5.11a X
[Hide Comment] Led it today after flailing on the opening moves for a few goes.
A few ball-nutz and some brassies with screamers worked nicely but he opening moves were totally unprotected. The main flake after the crimpy opening moves is VERY hollow and visibly moved when I stuck a piece behind it. Would never hold a fall.
I started just to the left "Bucket Brigade" crimped up and through a left traverse to a flat jug, then back up right to the hollow flake and mostly straight up on good crimps. 5.11a R/X
Some of this could have been "No Fruit Please" as described in Sven's guidebook. I couldn't figure the distinction between those routes. On the version I did you only trend slightly left for a few moves, any further left and you would be on "Vivisection". Jun 1, 2009
[Hide Comment] This was free soloed by Rob Drysdale in the 90's Jun 3, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11a X
[Hide Comment] Awesome, probably the only option is solo if you don't own the Ball-Nutz. Richard, do you know the difference between this and "No Fruit Please"? Jun 3, 2009
Tony Brengosz
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I would also like to know what the difference between this and No Fruit Please is. I couldn't for the life of me figure a way to climb straight up from the start. Mar 17, 2012
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Yo Chris tregg , can you turn this over to someone else who can give it a more fitting description. I,m a man of too few words for this DL Classic .
Also I'l mention that I think Tommy was the first to lead this in the mid 70's. Just put a question mark on it. Thanks Oct 4, 2015
chris tregge
Beersconsin
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I changed it some, if anyone has done this one recently I'd be happy to reassign to you (particularly if you have lead it). I climbed it on TR a few years ago and don't remember all that much about it except the start and the flexing hold. Oct 4, 2015