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Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib
5.7,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 57
votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> W Bluff 03 - Cl…
> Cleopatra's Needle
Description
This route is on the opposite side of the regular route up Cleo's Needle. The route starts below an overhang between the two obvious cracks. Surpass the overhang by climbing the right crack. Once over the overhang follow the rib up to the ledge below summit block. Traverse left to another ledge at same level. Once on this ledge climb to the top on small edges and right corner (crux of the route). Belay at the top from the summit ring.
Protection
To protect up to the ledge below the summit block use medium size nuts and cams( up to 1"). The move left from the rib to the ledge is well protected with a red allien(0.75"). Once on ledge a #3 BD stopper can be used on horizontal crack at the base of the summit block.
[Hide Photo] Top Out on Cleos
[Hide Photo] If you don't finish straight up the upper block, you're skipping the crux (and the best part).
[Hide Photo] Stewart Korte and Chris Keller of the HWDAMF enjoying the top
[Hide Photo] My brother Daniel reaches the top of the needle.
Thornton, CO
Wisconsin
You are talking about the 5.6 dihedral that starts to the left of the 5.7 rib. I just climbed it. It was pretty fun. Jul 16, 2008
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
The nut in a horizontal protects the top block. I think the nut makes it pretty well protected. The block climbing is probably 5.4ish. Nov 21, 2008
columbia, mo
New London, WI