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Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib

5.7, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 57 votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > W Bluff 03 - Cl… > Cleopatra's Needle

Description

This route is on the opposite side of the regular route up Cleo's Needle. The route starts below an overhang between the two obvious cracks. Surpass the overhang by climbing the right crack. Once over the overhang follow the rib up to the ledge below summit block. Traverse left to another ledge at same level. Once on this ledge climb to the top on small edges and right corner (crux of the route). Belay at the top from the summit ring.

Protection

To protect up to the ledge below the summit block use medium size nuts and cams( up to 1"). The move left from the rib to the ledge is well protected with a red allien(0.75"). Once on ledge a #3 BD stopper can be used on horizontal crack at the base of the summit block.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top Out on Cleos
[Hide Photo] Top Out on Cleos
If you don't finish straight up the upper block, you're skipping the crux (and the best part).
[Hide Photo] If you don't finish straight up the upper block, you're skipping the crux (and the best part).
Stewart Korte and Chris Keller of the HWDAMF enjoying the top
[Hide Photo] Stewart Korte and Chris Keller of the HWDAMF enjoying the top
My brother Daniel reaches the top of the needle.
[Hide Photo] My brother Daniel reaches the top of the needle.
Halloween 2020 on the needle
[Hide Photo] Halloween 2020 on the needle
Stewart of the HWDAMF having a quick drink
[Hide Photo] Stewart of the HWDAMF having a quick drink
Qzte.
[Hide Photo] Qzte.
Cleos Needle, Southwest Rib 5.7
[Hide Photo] Cleos Needle, Southwest Rib 5.7
Southwest Rib of Cleos Needle
[Hide Photo] Southwest Rib of Cleos Needle

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Climbed with Ben Sanders, ( he led it and I cleaned it)was in the spring, and was a nice route. There is a permenent bolt to rap down on at the top. This is a good place to have lunch. Jan 31, 2005
Stephen Marsh
Thornton, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I started in the dihedral to the left of the line drawn in the picture and followed that up till I was at the base of the summit block. I then went around to the right and up to the summit. This route needs to see more traffic, there was too many spiders & webs on the way up. The summit is what earns it 3 stars. Jul 6, 2005
[Hide Comment] Stephen,

You are talking about the 5.6 dihedral that starts to the left of the 5.7 rib. I just climbed it. It was pretty fun. Jul 16, 2008
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] I've always finished this route by way of the standard block finish, which climbs up the east-side of the block.

The nut in a horizontal protects the top block. I think the nut makes it pretty well protected. The block climbing is probably 5.4ish. Nov 21, 2008
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
 
[Hide Comment] Classic 5.7 traditional climbing difficulty. Truly a great representation of what a 5.7 crux should be represented and considered when setting gym routes. A good mix of dihedral and step around arete moves combine to form a wonderful line. Sep 22, 2019
the rock bobster
New London, WI
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The only route that's intended to finish up the hardest side of the top block, which I found to be the crux - I recommend not skipping it. Nov 9, 2022