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Routes in Cleopatra's Needle

Cleo's Needle South-Central Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Comfort Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northwest Side T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Southeast Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,416 total, 21/month
Shared By: Maikey Lopera on Jul 26, 2004
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

This route is on the opposite side of the regular route up Cleo's Needle. The route starts below an overhang between the two obvious cracks. Surpass the overhang by climbing the right crack. Once over the overhang follow the rib up to the ledge below summit block. Traverse left to another ledge at same level. Once on this ledge climb to the top on small edges and right corner (crux of the route). Belay at the top from the summit ring.

Protection

To protect up to the ledge below the summit block use medium size nuts and cams( up to 1"). The move left from the rib to the ledge is well protected with a red allien(0.75"). Once on ledge a #3 BD stopper can be used on horizontal crack at the base of the summit block.
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I've always finished this route by way of the standard block finish, which climbs up the east-side of the block.

The nut in a horizontal protects the top block. I think the nut makes it pretty well protected. The block climbing is probably 5.4ish. Nov 21, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Stephen,

You are talking about the 5.6 dihedral that starts to the left of the 5.7 rib. I just climbed it. It was pretty fun. Jul 16, 2008
Stephen Marsh
Thornton, CO
  5.7
Stephen Marsh   Thornton, CO
  5.7
I started in the dihedral to the left of the line drawn in the picture and followed that up till I was at the base of the summit block. I then went around to the right and up to the summit. This route needs to see more traffic, there was too many spiders & webs on the way up. The summit is what earns it 3 stars. Jul 6, 2005
Don LaBelle  
 
Climbed with Ben Sanders, ( he led it and I cleaned it)was in the spring, and was a nice route. There is a permenent bolt to rap down on at the top. This is a good place to have lunch. Jan 31, 2005