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Death & Disfiguration

5.8, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 29 votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 15: Pseudo Hawk's Nest

Description

Start on the detached block and move a little left following a crack through what appears to be a shattered face but is WAY solid. Finish on the ledge.

Protection

The route goes with all stoppers and Tri-Cams

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Burt Lindquist leading D&D with typical panache on a gorgeous spring day.
[Hide Photo] Burt Lindquist leading D&D with typical panache on a gorgeous spring day.
Routes just left of the gully.
[Hide Photo] Routes just left of the gully.
Recently new Madtown resident girl climbs Death and Disfiguration for the first time.  She approved.
[Hide Photo] Recently new Madtown resident girl climbs Death and Disfiguration for the first time. She approved.
Shane where are you??????
[Hide Photo] Shane where are you??????
The left-most climbs at Pseudo Hawk's. October First is hidden behind rocks.
[Hide Photo] The left-most climbs at Pseudo Hawk's. October First is hidden behind rocks.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Doug Hemken
Delta, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Gear to 2 inches. At the crux you'll want a small nut, tri-cam, or a small cam.

The part of the route above the pillar is short but sustained, and I've heard loads of people describe this route as "pumpy."

At least two people I know have broken bones trying to lead this route: be sure you get a good directional as you leave the top of the pillar. Aug 4, 2008
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Is this route to the right of Prime Rib and Degrade Your Sister? The route description says "detached block" and the only one in the area I know of is right by those routes. I could really investigate for myself but I'm feeling awfully lazy. Thanks! Sep 16, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Yes. Next route to the right of "Degrade My Sister". You climb up behind the big block and start the route coming off the top of this block which makes the starting moves proper of the route a bit sketchy on the lead as in not so much for lousy gear but just make sure you place it well and often so that if you fall you don't go hitting the block as in the examples Doug alludes to above. This is a really good route for the grade otherwise with pumpy, devious, and sustained climbing and good gear to protect. Sep 17, 2010
Matt Griffin
Madison, WI
 
[Hide Comment] Surpisingly great lead. Rock is all bomber even though the top looks like total choss from the ground. Gear is all excellent although the top out has a fair amount of pine needles covering a sloping dirt ledge. Sep 18, 2022