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Sometime Crack

5.10a, Trad, TR, 50 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 119 votes
FA: John Gill, solo, 1962
Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 05: Pedestal Buttress

Description

Sometime Crack is found on the monolith of rock that sticks out between the Pedestal Buttress and D'Arcy's Buttress. The climb faces southeast and is overhanging. Start out on a slabby piece of rock that is rated about 5.6. Climb the 10-15 feet to the top of this slab and you'll be standing on a ledge at the base of the crack. Climb the crack using jams (it's the only way in this case, so don't try to layback or you'll get spit off). At the top of the crack the route goes to the right on a less defined crack/ledge for about 10 feet to the top.

Protection

Small to medium stoppers.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

BH topping in out in Gill's footstep on Somtimes Crack.
[Hide Photo] BH topping in out in Gill's footstep on Somtimes Crack.
Matt comes to terms with this pumpy number. Photo: Ryan Strong
[Hide Photo] Matt comes to terms with this pumpy number. Photo: Ryan Strong
Onsight Free Solo in honor of John Gill and the DLFA
[Hide Photo] Onsight Free Solo in honor of John Gill and the DLFA
Onsight Free Solo in honor of John Gill and the DLFA
[Hide Photo] Onsight Free Solo in honor of John Gill and the DLFA
Alex S.
[Hide Photo] Alex S.
Bob Horan following in Gill's footstep on Sometimes Crack, circa late 1970s.
[Hide Photo] Bob Horan following in Gill's footstep on Sometimes Crack, circa late 1970s.
Jenna Korte topping out
[Hide Photo] Jenna Korte topping out
Lace it up! 1984
[Hide Photo] Lace it up! 1984
Sometime Crack
[Hide Photo] Sometime Crack
Dan F placing pro on Sometimes crack. Photo Mike Lopera
[Hide Photo] Dan F placing pro on Sometimes crack. Photo Mike Lopera
Matthew
[Hide Photo] Matthew

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] first lead by John Gill ,solo, 1962. Oct 2, 2002
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the FA info Steve. That guy was amazing! Did he rope solo or free solo? Oct 4, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] that would be Free Solo. Oct 4, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] It's still a hard lead if you do it without SLCD's, particularly on a hot august day. In 1992... I have the distinct memory of trying to get a middle-sized Lowe Tricam (blue or purple) to stick at the crux, but it kept wiggling... eventually you give up and climb without it. SLCD's probably make it easier, but imagining a lead on just passive pro, or free-solo, really ballsy. Oct 11, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] All cams rely on friction, tricams do certainly as well. Chocks less so. It's a simple product of camming angle, coefficient of friction and wall angle, although that's virtually impossible to model for an individual placement... It's still the driving force of how that all works. A "steeper" cam will more likely slide or pop in most cases. Dec 17, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] this could have been done as early as 1958-59 Feb 16, 2003
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] all the variations of this are excellant!of note is "Blow-Up"5.10b at the horizontal traverse left to the arete then up.this is out there.i remember following barney shaffers lead of the crack with the rope tied to my neck,is that jacked or what? STUPID!! Mar 25, 2005
Colin Erskine
Madison, WI
 
[Hide Comment] I tried this as the last climb of the day b/c i didnt feel pumped at all and this crack was very tough esp in the middle going up for the big hold that is about 3" taller than me. I dont really like hand jams that much but there are some crimps in the crack which i like better. The top was very hard, i could not get it after 10 trys. But i am excited to go back and give it another go. Sep 19, 2005
[Hide Comment] If your interested in some classic photo's of John Gill doing Acid Rock, Sometime Crack, Tombstone wall and the Flatiron, head to his website -johngill.net

Stated there, he indicates he did those routes/problems in 58/59 like Steve Sangdahl said. Amazing amount of history on his website too. Worth looking into. Dec 1, 2006
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] I have this memory from my earlier years of Dave Groth soloing this thing as a "warmdown". He came walking down around the corner with that classic grin of his, mumbling something about "high bouldering"... and left it at that for me to interpret. Nobody around, just he and I. Kinda timeless. JJ Sep 14, 2008
Austin Howell
Atlanta, Georgia
[Hide Comment] To honor John Gill and the DLFA:
youtu.be/WhisYMjCW8g Apr 22, 2019
Tradiban
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Nice Austin! But your shirt and wig got the time period wrong :( Apr 23, 2019
Austin Howell
Atlanta, Georgia
[Hide Comment] Tradiban.... you caught me! The tie dye came a lil bit later, and the hat screams “Henry Barber.” Tried the best I could, but lets face it.... there’s no way I’d *actually* be able to measure up to John Gill Apr 23, 2019
[Hide Comment] Well done Austin, looked super solid. I hope you lead it in your cowboy boots after. Good style sir! May 20, 2019
Mike Weber
Bensenville, IL
[Hide Comment] If anyone gets my dragon out, i would love to reunite with it. thanks. 4 days ago