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Routes in Great Tower

Cracker Barrel T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garden Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Crack, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greatest Generation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Greatness T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Greatness is Subjective TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moon Rock T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moon Walk TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rock Garden T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoooth Bush T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steak Sauce T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,450 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 25, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Great Crack is a nice long climb on Great Tower in the Prospect Point Towers formation. Start on low angle easy rock and climb up to a nice ledge. From the ledge head left up inside corner. Do a tough layback in the corner crack and pull up to another good ledge. Follow the path of least resistance to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack up to #3 Camalot

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
In this photo you can See Steak Sauce to the right. It climbs through the notch in the roof- Sep 14, 2006
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.6
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.6
One of the longer moderate leads in the park. While standing on big ledge, the crux can be well protected with a cam placed about 4 feet up and turned by jamming the crack just above the cam placement or using layback technique. Loose blocks greet you near the top. Once on top of the tower you can walk off it to the West and then circle back around towards the lake to pick up your pack. Aug 11, 2007
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.6
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.6
This is a fantastic climb and should be on every leaders tick list! Aug 26, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.7+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.7+
I took Remo's advice on got on this the other day. WOW!!! What an amazing climb. So tall too. One of my favorite leads at the lake now. A bit tuffer than 5.6 for sure. Sep 6, 2011
Mike Sohasky
  5.7
Mike Sohasky  
  5.7
I found that a 4# cam comes in handy near the top in the obvious 10-12 feet of 6 inch wide crack which isn't a give away at 5.6. Fun route, a must do. Sep 12, 2011
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6
I'm with Mike, a #4 Camalot is nice. It's definitely 5.6, but it's a grovel (arm-barring in a dihedral) to make it 5.6. The route is long, but the actual climbing isn't. Lost Face, Brinton's, Full-Stop and Berkeley are all more fun at the grade and have more actual climbing. That said, if you've done those, you should probably make the hike to this thing. Sep 1, 2014
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.7
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.7
Wow 1 star. First person ever to not like this climb :P Sep 2, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6
Ha! I figured I'd have to defend the 1 star - I almost gave it a bomb.

10 feet of 5.4 + 20 feet of 4th class + 20 feet of 5.6 offwidth + 30 feet of chunky 5.2 < 4 stars -- at least in my opinion.

Some people might consider this route worth the bushwhacking adventure required to find it, but I do not. There are several better 5.6 routes in the park with better approaches, better and more consistent climbing, as well as better position and aesthetics. I'd much rather climb Full Stop and I only give it two stars. Sep 2, 2014
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.7
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.7
Maybe you got too strong and all the 5.6 climbing felt like 4th class and 5.2 :) Sep 2, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6
I wish that was the case Paul, but I wimped out and took a hang on Track Cracks earlier in that same day. Sep 3, 2014
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
And what's funny/ironic about that is there's the same amount of climbing on Track Cracks as on Great Crack ... both four stars in my book. Sep 3, 2014

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