Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Stettner Rocks

Back 9 T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Brothers TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Front 9 T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Joseph T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mantle Shelf, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Niche, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Paul T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Paul's Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul1 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stettner 16 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Stettner 17 ("Corner") TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stettner 7 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Untied Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 672 total · 3/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Aug 6, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is on the northern outcrop of Stettner Rocks, just to the right of "The Niche" (approximately five feet right). There is a pedestal that forms a dihedral - the little dihedral at the start of the Niche. Either start as for The Niche, or start on the outer corner, or start on the outer face of the pedestal to the right of a tree. The latter two starts are about 5.7/5.8.

Once on this pedestal you are confronted by the Shelf. Find a way to stand on this and the rest is easy!

Protection

None for the crux.

Photos

- No Photos -
The key to pulling the second shelf is a pinch hold with the left hand. We worked this one for awhile and once we got we did it for time and the quickest was 39 seconds. Sep 20, 2002
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.8
My guess is that this climb is below an obvious triangular niche (similar to that of Chicago) and the crux is actually exiting left of the niche using the good ledge out left. Good lead. Jun 13, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.9
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.9
What Andy describes sounds more like The Niche, finished straight up the crack.

I watched 5-6 do the Mantle Shelf yesterday, using 3-4 different methods. Only one person got it on the first try. The key hold for pulling through can only be reached after you are fully committed to the mantle, and is not particularly obvious.

Humbling. Even Pete C. had to think about it (but then rocked it). Jun 29, 2015

More About The Mantle Shelf

Printer-Friendly